synthetic oil

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fjr newbie

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Just purchased 2006 fjr ready for oil change. Moving from Honda ST 1300 which could not use synthetic due to clutch slippage, or at least not with moly. Can the FJR use full synthetic.

 
Lots of folks using the full on synthetic stuff in the FJR. I personaly think it's a waste of money but that's only one oinion. If you like it go for it.

 
Use whatever turns (and hopefully protects) your crank!

Just as with the ST1300, make sure the synthetic you choose does NOT have friction modifiers such as moly in it. Both types are being marketed for automotive use, so you have to read the label carefully to keep the friction modifiers out of the crankcase, else you WILL have clutch problems.

Don

 
I have been using Shell Rotella T6 5w40 full synthetic. Jaso rated. Walmart sells it.

 
There's absolutely nothing wrong with normal dino oil, but I tend to always end up with the following after a trip to Walmart for oil change supplies:

Comes on sale from time to time:

IMG_1195-e1302301004745.jpg


Cheap and apparently very good:

IMG_1194-e1302300976536.jpg


 
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Amsoil, baby....I usually run up to ten thousand before an oil change. 51 thousand miles and no probs.

 
Canola oil I tells ya. Canola oil.

It's the shitz!
My Arizona brother has been out in the heat too long. Canola oil?! :blink: Puh-leese....

Everyone knows this oil below is just the Shizzle, my dizzle! :lol:

la1.jpg


 
Last edited by a moderator:
Amsoil. The cost never mattered to me because it wasn't that much anyways.

I did notice alot smoother shifting when I went from 20W50 to 10W40. It was silky smooth and not much clunk into first gear.

 
I did notice alot smoother shifting when I went from 20W50 to 10W40. It was silky smooth and not much clunk into first gear.
I used to think the same thing too. But then I found Cansoil 20.5W51 and it's far better than either the Amsoil 10W40, Euroil 10Y40, or Moistoil 5Z30.

Pure butter.....

But, don't ever buy Clownoil 80 because it's measured in proof and wreaks havoc when run in the FJR.

Gawd, if only somebody were to write an oil FAQ or something. ;)

 
There's absolutely nothing wrong with normal dino oil, but I tend to always end up with the following after a trip to Walmart for oil change supplies:

Comes on sale from time to time:

IMG_1195-e1302301004745.jpg


Cheap and apparently very good:

IMG_1194-e1302300976536.jpg
This is the combo I go with, I change it every 5000 miles.

 
This is the combo I go with, I change it every 5000 miles.

I can count by 5's better than most....then mix in a little Rotella 15w-40 and you have your 'home made' Synthetic blend 10w-40....and it saves dough! ;)

 
I did notice alot smoother shifting when I went from 20W50 to 10W40. It was silky smooth and not much clunk into first gear.
I used to think the same thing too. But then I found Cansoil 20.5W51 and it's far better than either the Amsoil 10W40, Euroil 10Y40, or Moistoil 5Z30.

Pure butter.....

But, don't ever buy Clownoil 80 because it's measured in proof and wreaks havoc when run in the FJR.

Gawd, if only somebody were to write an oil FAQ or something. ;)
The Clownoil goes in the operator and the Cansoil in the engine. You then can have a trully orgasmic experiencs. :eek:

 
There's absolutely nothing wrong with normal dino oil, but I tend to always end up with the following after a trip to Walmart for oil change supplies:

Comes on sale from time to time:

IMG_1195-e1302301004745.jpg


Cheap and apparently very good:

IMG_1194-e1302300976536.jpg
Ditto:::::::::I thought I was the only one?

 
On a long trip in a Walmart parking lot in Norwalk Ohio, I was caught putting a baby **** yellow filter and this stuff in my bike.

JamiePittsburgh292.jpg


 

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