Taking photos while riding...

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TheAxeman

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With all the great photographs that we see coming across the forum I'm just wondering how everybody is doing it? I know a bunch of you ride with talented pillions that do the snapping but how are the rest of you managing to even push the shutter release with gloved hands while still maintaining control of the bike? Are the cameras mounted on the bike or are you freehanding it? I would love to be able to mount the camera on a techmount or Ram and then have some sort of remote control shutter release so I don't have to take my hands off the bars. Although I have some smaller digital cams, I would like to use my Nikon D40 instead. Anybody want to share with the rest of us how you do it?

 
At NAFO, I saw several folks with their camera around their lanyard. I decided to do the same thing on the ride home. It is sooo much more efficient than having to dig through the tank bag. Set the throttle lock, stand up, snap away! (That's using my Fujifilm camera, not my digital SLR)

 
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Tried the pillion thing and only got pics of the back of my helmet. :rolleyes:

Quite by accident, I use the exact same camera and technique RenoJohn uses. An Olympus D-580 ZOOM on a dummy cord in my left breast pocket. Take lots and lots of pictures and hope one or two turn out okay. The dummy cord helps me stabilize the camera for the shot.

 
Small, glove friendly digi-cam with a screen (v. view finder). Practice. Don't be dumb about it, either. Shoot your shots blind keeping your eyes on the road and not the shot. And definitely, a throttle lock helps, but here again, use it wisely when taking a shot.

Disclaimer: TWN does not recommend or condone the taking of photographs with hand-held photographic equipment while riding a motorcycle. You risk dieing or worse! Do so at your own peril. ;)

 
For about $20 you can buy a wireless remote for your D-40. That would be a place to start with the big camera.

I practiced on a recent trip with my little pocket digital camera and found I could shoot one-handed if I let the camera dangle from my left wrist by its strap as I rode, then whipped it around and aimed it upside down when I was ready to shoot, tripping the shutter with my left thumb.

Lotsa problems with this, principally that the video kept being turned on accidentally, wasting a lot of space on the chip. Also, you have to figure a way to thread the strap between a couple of fingers and over the grip to keep the camera from flying about in the wind.

I'm thinking of slitting the index finger of one of my left gloves so I can manipulate the controls a little better.

 
Safety ***** that I am, I stop and dig the camera out. I don't want to risk dropping the camera, the bike, or the self.

That said, there have been a number of occasions where I wished I could just whip it out and click. Shoulderless road through nice woods, something like that.

 
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For about $20 you can buy a wireless remote for your D-40. That would be a place to start with the big camera.
The only problem I can forsee with a remote is that it probably has to be pointed at the front of the camera to work. It might be worth a $30.00 experiment though.

 
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Axe.......

Here is what I do.

Small point and shoot camera. Has wrist strap.

Loop strap around right wrist, camera power on.

Ride...............ride........................ride...............camera dangles only slightly, windshield prevents wind from disturbing the camera dangle position, so it does not bang against the tank. Rests there silently...comfortably...ready when needed....ride...........ride................ride.

When picture time presents itself.......I'll either flip the throttle lock, if I'm headed up hill...................or simply squeeze in the clutch and coast if on flat or downhill grade...........use rear break pedal as needed. Carry second battery on full charge as a back up.

Never look at the camera, just point and click away. Takes a little practice to figure out point position, etc. but it's not a difficult process after a few attempts. Be cautious of what's both behind you and ahead of you while doing this. Never take your eyes off the road...of what's ahead. If you miss the pic you wanted.........welp..........you'll likely get the next one.

3 samples...............note a couple things.........angle of road and lack of traffic!

IMGP2574.jpg


IMGP2580.jpg


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When you finally stop, it's like Christmas morning opening your gifts from under the tree. What did I get??? :rolleyes:

 
Point and shoot digital, tethered to lanyard around my neck. Left jacket pocket open, unzipped, camera lives there when too busy riding to take pix. Easy reach to pocket to fish out camera when time for fotos.

Here's a key principle.. simple as it sounds...

If riding and taking pix, you suddenly realize you need both hands on the bar for whatever reason, let the freakin camera dangle, trust the teather, in all cases, ride the freakin' bike. :rolleyes:

 
With all the great photographs that we see coming across the forum I'm just wondering how everybody is doing it?
RamMounts attached to the handle bars or Steering Head Stem.

Are the cameras mounted on the bike or are you freehanding it?
I've done both on different bikes. But I don't freehand on the FJR - too hard. I took this one freehand using the cruise control on my Royal Star:

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Although I have some smaller digital cams, I would like to use my Nikon D40 instead.
No way would I do it with one of my DSLR's - they are not designed for the kind of punishment a motorcycle can dish out. Use a point and shoot that you'd consider disposable if something happens to it. I use a shockproof Olympus 790SW.

The advantage of the P&S is that you can take video's, too.

 
I use a Fuji 5200. It is big but fairly light. I keep the camera on a short neck strap so it doesn't rub or bounce on the tank. If I am using my tank bag, even better because the camera rests on the bag. I always stop the bike for a picture, but at least I don't have to get off the bike.

 
It was much easier taking pictures on the RoadKing. The bike just wanted to stay on the road. I'd keep the camera in the bag attached to the windshield....and it was easy to just grab it and snap away.

The FJR feels like it just goes where you look - so I'm MUCH more careful and haven't yet taken many pictures while riding. The riding's soooooooo much more enjoyable (but I miss having the great riding pics).

I'm happy to trade the in-flight pictures for the great riding on the FJR!

 
I was shooting with a Nikon 4800 which is basically a right handed camera (control locations). I found that by moving the strap over to the left side of the camera I could hold camera upside down which neatly put the trigger button under my left thumb. This also solved the problem of my hand covering the LCD display. The 4800 takes great pictures but there is a big but(t) to it all. Shutter lag is the time from when you push the trigger button until the picture is taken. During the time between triggering the shutter and the picture being taken the camera must set the exposure and focus on the scene. On some digicams this can take well over a second. From a moving platform like a motorcycle this means that what you were seeing on the LCD or even were just observing without using the LCD has dramatically changed or even passed by the time the shutter trips. Here in New England many things are close to the road and slow shutter response makes well formatted pixs pretty hard to take.

The Nikon 4800 has 7/10 of a second shutter lag when using auto focus. While that may not sound like much, it is often the difference between a picture of a phone pole, tree, or a street sign instead of the beautiful vista that I was looking at when the shutter was triggered. The camera only has a useful ISO speed of 400 or less which makes it difficult to freeze action without blurring and hard to shoot in early morning or late afternoon lighting. ISO is the equivalent of film speed like ASA/ISO 100 or ASA400. The higher the number the more light sensitive it will be for fast shutter speeds or low light shooting. The 4800 does get acceptable battery life.

My Digital SLR camera -- Canon 20D has a sterling shutter lag speed of less than 1/10 second. This camera also shoots virtually noise free at ISO 1600 so it shines at freeze action and low light shooting, plus it is image stabilized. I've never actually completely drained a rechargeable battery with this camera. But, it is a big (BIG), heavy camera that is very $expensive$ that I hate to go waving around. This Shaquille O Neal of the photo world is also heavy and hard enough to do significant damage to the motorcycle if it were accidentally hit something.

Enter a Canon A720, purpose purchased for motorcycle use. It is image stabilized, has shutter lag of less than 1/10 of a second, shoots great pixs at ISO 800 and does an acceptable job at ISO 1600. The camera is small, the LCD is huge and bright, it lends itself to left handed shooting and takes wonderful pixs. In fact, my wife looks at pixs from her big bucks Nikon D80 and the little Canon and often likes the A720 pixs better. The A720 wakes up and is ready to shoot very quickly too. One minor item on the down side is its appetite for AA batteries. We use Ni-MH batteries and carry at least 3 sets for a 12-16 hr day.

Another very useful feature for shooting good pixs is the AVCC100. After carefully selecting a safe area in which to shoot simply push the auto pilot button and fire away.

Things to look for in a digicam for bike pixs:

  • image stabilization
  • fast shutter response
  • ability to shoot ISO 800 or higher
  • big, bright LCD screen
  • battery appetite
  • good hand feel for you and your shooting style
  • a high shutter speed does no good if the camera doesn't have good light sensitivity (see ISO 800 or higher)
 
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For about $20 you can buy a wireless remote for your D-40. That would be a place to start with the big camera.
The only problem I can forsee with a remote is that it probably has to be pointed at the front of the camera to work. It might be worth a $30.00 experiment though.
The D40 remote is infrared and does indeed need to be pointed at the front of the camera. This 'feature' absolutely infuriates my wife and is one of the many little things that finally drove her to upgrade to a D80.

A passenger can manage a digital SLR but it is far from a first choice camera and is too much for the pilot to manage, IMO. As a pillion FJRed’s wife Grace is absolutely deadly with her digital SLR, killer good pixs on the fly!

 
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Great, detailed information as always. This is exactly why I love this forum so much. Lots of great people with varied interests and different perspectives.

 
In a simpler vein: ex. Cycle World editor/founder Joe Parkhurst instucted (in his book on touring Baja by motorcycle); "Carry your camera in a chest pocket of your riding jacket."

He was known for, and instrumental in, good motorcycle photography.

Having your camera easily accessible (which certainly isn't difficult with many current digital cameras) seems to be good advice -- especially, to get those rare shots....

 
RAM makes a camera mount. Based on pictures I've seen it seems to work out well.

Been thinking about doing something like that myself.

 
Almost all of my pics are taken while riding as I'm too lazy to stop.

RAM mount holds the camera on the right bar. All's I do is, with the left hand, turn it on when I want (will be adding DC wire to the camera) and press the shutter button when I think it's what I want. The fun part is taking pics while in a deep turn showing that I've got another deep turn immidiately ahead. With some practice it becomes relatively simple.

 
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