Taming the beast

[Don B]

I'm with Bagger on this one. Count me as a disappointed new 06 owner.

I have a front end shake between 20-60mph, very herky-jerky throttle, ugly welds on the frame, and it does not start all the time. All this in only 1800 miles!!! This bike does not seem to be "finished". The injection mapping is terrible. An owner should not have to finish off the engineering on a new bike. That is just simply rediculous. This thing is also not a "powerhouse with massive hp". I had an R1 and it was smoooooooth. C'mon Yamaha, you can do way better and its time to step up and get these fixed!

Fred H., what keeps your throttle cam mod in place?

Don

 

[cartfj40]

[



Hay Painman you are right on the money with the shifting quicker (almost speed shifting ) it works very good. I was doing this before the barbarian mod and it helped but after the mod this bike is so much better it's what I expected to feel from day one from this bike. As maywannyamaha1300 suggests is a good idea to write to yamaha but we all have to remember they are bound by "EPA" rules to have these bikes run this lean for our "clean air act " also the yamaha dealer most likely not perform the barbarian mod because it would violate these rules. In my opinion it"s almost boarderline dangerous. If you can do this mod as well as the throttle spring and kick up the idle a little it helps .

 

[rickcorwn]

Fred....
Since I'm mechanically challenged, I can't see what I'm supposed to on your photo of the shim. First, what did you use as a shim? And, where exactly did you put it? Perhaps you could "arrow" the shim in the photog.

Thanx. BAGGER

All the gory details here.

 

[Fred H.]

Fred H., what keeps your throttle cam mod in place?

The shim is simply a 12 guage piece of copper romex house wiring bent to shape, about 35mm in OVERALL length after the bends (see photo).

One one end it is held in place by the loop that hooks over the tab on the throttle pulley, and I made it just long enough so the other end goes under the throttle cable itself between the pulley and cable, even when wide open. I also pushed it down into the groove of the throttle pulley a bit, which also pinched it in place some.

Throttle pulley shown in WIDE OPEN positon

Throttle pulley shown at FULLY CLOSED positon

 

[mindtrip]

Ron Brown in Burleson would like to known if you can just lift the front of the tang to remove the throttle spring or do you have to remove tank on the 06's.I did this on my 03 but was told to get to spring on 06's there was a cover under tank ??? it's killing my right hand.Also my is a AE.

You have to completely pull the tank on the '06. There is indeed a head shield covering the engine/throttle bodies. It's just a glorified piece of aluminum foil, held in place by one of those black plastic rivets Yamaha seems to love so much.

Removing the tank is only five extra minutes work. There are two electrical connectors and one fuel line (on 49 state bikes...) and all have quick disconnects. Just make sure to run it down on fuel first, otherwise you'll have to contend with ~40lbs of fuel sloshing about.

- JimY

Sorry, I totally disagree. I just suspended my tank with a wood block as usual when doing the TBS, and was completely able to get to the tang for the throttle spring (after removing the heat sheild--I think this is the cover that Ron was talking about) and all the throttle body bleed screws and vacuum caps, etc etc. Not that you can't remove the tank, but I'm a lazy ******* so look for the minimal amount of work to get the job done.

 

[bmwhd]

I agree Fred's solution is genius in its simplicity and stand in awe of his ability to tackle such issues. I will likely try his shim just to see the difference but it's not a burning issue for me at this time.

 

[Fred H.]

I agree Fred's solution is genius in its simplicity and stand in awe of his ability to tackle such issues. I will likely try his shim just to see the difference but it's not a burning issue for me at this time.

C'mon, admit it. You're just sucking up trying to get me to give away one of my $399 copper Romex wire shims for free, aren't you.

 

[bmwhd]

I agree Fred's solution is genius in its simplicity and stand in awe of his ability to tackle such issues. I will likely try his shim just to see the difference but it's not a burning issue for me at this time.

C'mon, admit it. You're just sucking up trying to get me to give away one of my $399 copper Romex wire shims for free, aren't you.

Dang it! Found out! :lol:

Actually, I'm thinking I can cough up the copper and do the initial bend, I'm just a bit hesitant on the insertion part :blink: I can see that baby dropping down into the nether regions in a heart beat. :angry:

 

[OhioFJR1300]

Hey Fred, here's an idea. You can make a maint. Video for the FJR and include one of the throttle pulley shims with it as a package deal :yahoo: :yahoo: Put me down for one

 

[Bagger]

Well, I got my FJR back from the dealer this afternoon. Three (yes .. 3) days after dropping it off for the initial service.

I had a conversation with the tech yesterday about the Barbarian mod, the +7 CO deal and releasing the middle throttle cable. He didn't want to do it, but said he would. He told the scheduling person that he did what I asked and then 'left to get married again'. (?)

They said they didn't charge me for anything other than the standard service ... which came to $225 minus $75 discount (?) = $150 + $26 parts + $7.50 EPA (oil disposal fee) + $11 tax. Total about $194.50. I tho't that a bit pricey, but, hey... I'm sure some folks think I charge toooooo much as well. Whatever.

Soooo..... I take it for a ride. Am I impressed. No...! Not one bit. The throttle slack is EXACTLY where it was.... loose as a 2-bit whore. So, throttle response sucks. If ... IF... he did the wire jump and CO increases I'd be surprised. Plus, the throttle response seems the same/same as it was prior to my 'visit'. On/off throttle is still the same ol' herky-jerky crap as before. No change. I'm very disappointed.

I could be wrong, but I think that either nothing was done to the bike other than the initial service oil/filter/yada, yada..... or I'm just waaaaaaaaay too sensitive to ride this bike.

I figured that after the mods were done that I would at least have a smile on my face after a quick 40 miles o'back roads. But, alas .... the feel was the same as before.

I sure wish I had better wrenching skills. Man, I'd rather do this stuff myowndamnself. But, I'm pretty much stupid when it comes to wrenching anything other than adding some chrome bolt on farkle. Damn...

BTW... could someone tell me how to adjust the throttle cable slack? I did this on my VALK and a couple HDs, but don't see the same/same inline cable tensioner that was present on these bikes. Thanx.

BAGGER

 

[jayshaw91]

*shrug* Just got mine and I don't see the big deal on the throttle. I thought getting going, shifting, etc was fine for me. The throttle is a bit too tight for my liking, but that's it. I'll try that spring removal mod and see if that loosens it up. That, my friends is my only gripe at all.

Long live the FJR!

 

[bmwhd]

Well, I got my FJR back from the dealer this afternoon. Three (yes .. 3) days after dropping it off for the initial service.
I had a conversation with the tech yesterday about the Barbarian mod, the +7 CO deal and releasing the middle throttle cable. He didn't want to do it, but said he would. He told the scheduling person that he did what I asked and then 'left to get married again'. (?)

They said they didn't charge me for anything other than the standard service ... which came to $225 minus $75 discount (?) = $150 + $26 parts + $7.50 EPA (oil disposal fee) + $11 tax. Total about $194.50. I tho't that a bit pricey, but, hey... I'm sure some folks think I charge toooooo much as well. Whatever.

Soooo..... I take it for a ride. Am I impressed. No...! Not one bit. The throttle slack is EXACTLY where it was.... loose as a 2-bit whore. So, throttle response sucks. If ... IF... he did the wire jump and CO increases I'd be surprised. Plus, the throttle response seems the same/same as it was prior to my 'visit'. On/off throttle is still the same ol' herky-jerky crap as before. No change. I'm very disappointed.

I could be wrong, but I think that either nothing was done to the bike other than the initial service oil/filter/yada, yada..... or I'm just waaaaaaaaay too sensitive to ride this bike.

I figured that after the mods were done that I would at least have a smile on my face after a quick 40 miles o'back roads. But, alas .... the feel was the same as before.

I sure wish I had better wrenching skills. Man, I'd rather do this stuff myowndamnself. But, I'm pretty much stupid when it comes to wrenching anything other than adding some chrome bolt on farkle. Damn...

BTW... could someone tell me how to adjust the throttle cable slack? I did this on my VALK and a couple HDs, but don't see the same/same inline cable tensioner that was present on these bikes. Thanx.

BAGGER

The cable slack is easy. One of the adjustors is right up by the throttle. It's in-line on one of the throttle cables under a rubber boot. Just slide the boot back toward the throttle and you'll see it. Undo the center locking nut and then turn the down-stream adjustor (fartherst from the throttle) clockwise to tighten up the cable. It helps a lot with the throttle response.

As for what the tech may or may not have done, you'd know for sure if he released the center spring tention. It's a very noticable difference in how hard the throttle is to twist.

You can also verify if he did the BM (and left it done) by attempting to enter the CO change mode. Just hold the two buttons on your LCD panel in while you turn on the key. Keep pressing them both until "Diag" appears on the screen. Then press the left button once. If "CO" appears, then he did the BM at least. You're not going to feel much difference with the +7 CO but you should feel less vibes and have smoother low RPM response. Of course, it is possible he did the BM, adjusted your CO, and then un-did the BM giving you the benefit of the +7 without allowing you to go back in and change it.

 

[Jabba]

Pretty sure you've gotta go counter clockwise on the downstream portion of the connector on the throttle cable- Making the two sections farther apart and taking up the slack....then tighten the nut back up to secure things in place. IIRC

 

[Bagger]

Thanx, Todd.... Guess I shoulda looked more closely at the throttle cable. Taking the slack out should be pretty much straight forward. No matter which way one turns the deal, eh.

I'll check out the other stuff as well. I sure wish I had more mechanical skills. Pisses me off that I have to rely on 18 year old "tech" to fix things.

Latah.... BAGGER

 

[Fred H.]

Thanx, Todd.... Guess I shoulda looked more closely at the throttle cable. Taking the slack out should be pretty much straight forward. No matter which way one turns the deal, eh.
I'll check out the other stuff as well. I sure wish I had more mechanical skills. Pisses me off that I have to rely on 18 year old "tech" to fix things.

Latah.... BAGGER

Bagger,

Where do you live?

 

[jjsC6]

I agree Fred's solution is genius in its simplicity and stand in awe of his ability to tackle such issues. I will likely try his shim just to see the difference but it's not a burning issue for me at this time.

C'mon, admit it. You're just sucking up trying to get me to give away one of my $399 copper Romex wire shims for free, aren't you.

Laughed my *** off! :yahoo:

 

[ionbeam]

Of course, it is possible he did the BM, adjusted your CO, and then un-did the BM giving you the benefit of the +7 without allowing you to go back in and change it.

*IF* he did the BM and then removed the jumper I would almost bet that he wouldn't have put the little white plastic plug back in the ECU connector. All ECU connector holes will either have a wire or a plastic plug. If there is an unoccupied hole then he most likely did the BM and removed the jumper.

Where do you live?

There is, ahem, a bit of information lacking in your profile. It's hard to hook you up with resources that could help you not knowing where you are located.

 

[bmwhd]

Pretty sure you've gotta go counter clockwise on the downstream portion of the connector on the throttle cable- Making the two sections farther apart and taking up the slack....then tighten the nut back up to secure things in place. IIRC

Guess it depends on which way you're facing Standing on the right side of the bike, facing forward and looking down the throttle cable toward the speedo, I had to turn the lower adjuster clockwise to tighten up the slack.

 

[Maywannayamaha1300]

Can someone try this and tell me the result. When the bike is warmed up and in neutral.....I give the throttle a quick rev and as it reaches the the highest point of the rev and deccelerates it has a grinding sound ...must be in the engine because the bike is in neutral. Is this normal. I just picked it up from service and got home. Please try to give it a fast rev and tell me what you hear.

Thanks,

 

[jayshaw91]

Pretty sure by brand spankin' new 06 does the same thing.