tapered steering-head bearings

[palerider]

Hi,

A friend is looking at a 2006AE and asked the PO if he had replaced the steering-head bearing with a tapered-roller bearing. The PO said he thought he had, but he couldn't remember for sure.

Is there any way to tell visually--ie without taking the bike apart--if the steering bearing has been replaced?

 

[Ignacio]

The PO said he thought he had, but he couldn't remember for sure.
Is there any way to tell visually--ie without taking the bike apart--if the steering bearing has been replaced?

That would make me skeptical right there. Changing bearings isn't just slapping something new in there...it involves removing the old races and pressing on new ones. If they forgot whether they did them personally....they didn't. Even if a dealer did they likely would have mentioned about the work they had to go about it.

You don't have to take the bike "apart", but you would have to go through the retorque process (which is good to do anyway as new owner)....plus a tiny bit more. Remove the upper nut and you *should* be able to see if there are tapered bearings or round bearings.

 

[palerider]

The PO said he thought he had, but he couldn't remember for sure.
Is there any way to tell visually--ie without taking the bike apart--if the steering bearing has been replaced?

That would make me skeptical right there. Changing bearings isn't just slapping something new in there...it involves removing the old races and pressing on new ones. If they forgot whether they did them personally....they didn't. Even if a dealer did they likely would have mentioned about the work they had to go about it.

You don't have to take the bike "apart", but you would have to go through the retorque process (which is good to do anyway as new owner)....plus a tiny bit more. Remove the upper nut and you *should* be able to see if there are tapered bearings or round bearings.

Thanks.

 

[Fred W]

Why would he care? It isn't really "necessary" unless you've had issues with oscillation (wobble). Most of us still have the stock bearings in there and mine are at around 90k miles with no problems/symptoms

Wobble isn't caused by the bearings. It's caused by the wheel or tires. Tapered bearings can mask the symptoms.

 

[TomInPA]

Before i owned the FJR, I had a bike that replacing with tapered bearings was important. The FJR has always been stable and vibration free. I'm aware of very few owners, even with high mileage, that have done this modification.

 

[palerider]

Why would he care? It isn't really "necessary" unless you've had issues with oscillation (wobble). Most of us still have the stock bearings in there and mine are at around 90k miles with no problems/symptoms
Wobble isn't caused by the bearings. It's caused by the wheel or tires. Tapered bearings can mask the symptoms.

Thanks. Apparently, it matters to him. I will pass on the accumulated group wisdom.

 

[ionbeam]

Why would he care?...Wobble isn't caused by the bearings. It's caused by the wheel or tires. Tapered bearings can mask the symptoms.

Correct response! The only issue is the credibility of the seller.

 

[ULEWZ]

I think the stability of the front end is greatly increased with hard cornering with tapered roller bearings. That is why I did it and have Zero regrets. It is a PITA though, so I bet that is why more do not do it cause it is cheap to do, about $40.

 

[Fred W]

The stability isn't really changed unless you also alter the steering angles. But it is better damped from oscillation so it feels more stable. If the day ever comes that the stock bearing get notchy (which generally occurs after someone overtightens the ball bearings' preload) I'd replace with tapered bearings. Not sure why they do not use them from the factory.

 

[900gc]

Hi,
A friend is looking at a 2006AE and asked the PO if he had replaced the steering-head bearing with a tapered-roller bearing. The PO said he thought he had, but he couldn't remember for sure.

Is there any way to tell visually--ie without taking the bike apart--if the steering bearing has been replaced?

Couldn't remember huh. I wonder if the PO can remember doing anything else to the bike like...ummm...regular maintenance?

That aside, I'm in the camp of replacing the stock ones with tapered only if I own the bike long enough to wear them out. I have owned bikes that did need the ball type to be replaced because of an "on center" notch or indent that developed. At only 30K or so in one case. Like many things, I suspect the quality of materials can make a difference in longevity. No doubt though that the tapered design is technically superior in many ways.

 

[stuarto49]

I replaced my OEM steering head bearings with tapered roller at only 25K miles. Steering was becoming 'notchy' with any front brake applied - a very wierd feeling. I first ordered standard bearings from the dealer, about $100 with the seals. Then decided to do the tapered roller and purchased from All Balls for about $35, entire kit with seals. The job required removing the front wheel, the forks (individually), pounding out the original races and installing the new races. A serious job, maybe 5-6 hours. Notchiness gone and expect many years on these new bearings.

Stuart

 

[Fred W]

@stuarto49

First order of business: Welcome to the forum. I hope that you enjoy your time here.

As for your notchy bearings, and just out of curiosity, did you or a mechanic re-torque the steering head bearings at some point in that 25k miles? Or is the FJR new to you, i.e. did you buy the bike used and therefore not have full knowledge of what was done for part of it's prior life?

The reason that I ask is that it is very unusual to dimple the bearings without having seriously over-torqued them. Most of the folks you hear about who have gone to the tapered rollers do so to increase the mechanical damping and reduce the slight tendency to wobble as tires take on goofy wear patterns, not because of "problems" with the ball bearings.

FWIW I still have the original set of steering head bearings at almost 90k miles on the odo (knock on wood), but I have set the bearing preload precisely per the factory service manual procedure (a bit convoluted process) and torque specs and not attempted to go any tighter. I've also been lucky enough (or smart enough with my tire choices) to never encounter the dreaded head shake.

In either case, the tapered bearings are a worthwhile upgrade, one that I would likely institute when/if ever they need replacement.

 

[SunRider]

palerider - Just looked and could not see any tale-tail of the tapered bearings.

The new bearings come with a non-OE top seal, but the OE seal may be re-used, as I did.

and on to the derail...

My FJR exhibited 'hands off decel headshake' from the dealer showroom.
Found this issue a common theme on both visited FJR forums.

The Tire Brand (3 different), nor did tires New eliminate the problem.
Set-up parameters such as damping, preload, and fork height only had minor affect.
Solo no bags, or two-up fully loaded...same story.


Wish I had considered that the factory rollers may have been under-torqued when delivered. Just don't have that data.
Anyway, I installed the Tapered rollers. And the bike still had 'hands-off-decel-headshake', using the factory torque value.
Finally, I used the suggested method of measuring the unloaded steering drag while torquing the head bearings.
Presto !! HODH gone.