Test rode 2014 RT - nice, but.....

[Top_Speed1]

Not a fan of the boxers, but... for a 2 banger? hmmm.

Motordrehzahl = Engine Speed (RPM)

Motorleistung = Engine Output (KW/HP)

 

[fjrzrcool]

Been a while since I started this post and have not made a purchase yet as I have been dealing with an ill parent, but now getting ready - wondering at this point, if I shouldn't just wait till 2015 models come out...only a couple more months till details?

Any rumors on the 2015? (I know-opening a can of worms )

 

[Top_Speed1]

Been a while since I started this post and have not made a purchase yet as I have been dealing with an ill parent, but now getting ready - wondering at this point, if I shouldn't just wait till 2015 models come out...only a couple more months till details?
Any rumors on the 2015? (I know-opening a can of worms )

You've had some very good responses on this topic

Not sure if gas mileage equates to anything to/for you? (so far not mentioned here)...

I have rode on rides with (only 1 so far) wet-head 1200RT, many FJR's and at several same stop gas stations....

...the RT is not really all that good (worst of the 3 bikes). My K16 (6 banger) sips less than both the RT and the FJR. Personally (for me) this is a buzz kill! To have an engine that is only a 2 banger, it does not fare well with these numbers (see my chart posted 2 posts back). Now if we didn't roll thousands of miles annually, this may not be of concern as much (with you?), but most here do.

Just another view

 

[Denver_FJR]

Just received my June issue of Motorcycle Consumer News and in it their review of the new and improved 2014 BMW Wasserboxer RT. Some interesting points they made, for what it's worth:

• Standard Maintenance is only $600 (compared to $800 for the FJR, 2010 review)
• Wet weight is 620 lb. (not as much difference with the FJR as I thought)
• They poo-poo'd the Michelin PR4 GT tires, saying they were too biased for wet weather conditions, the heavy sipe'ing hurt handling on dry roads.
• One tester commented he would still go with the FJR,
  
  .
• 0-60 & 1/4 mile stats where within fraction of a second of each other.
• Despite having a 6th gear, the RT averaged 7mpg less.
• Decked out, the RT lists for $22495! (Hey, it's only money)
• RT got 5 stars overall, the FJR 4 1/2.

 

[PA1195]

I've been off Forum for some time, but check in periodically to read the mail. I'm on a '14 HD Road King now (#48 in 54 years) due to arthritis (need lazy boy posture and simplicity). I've had three FJR's but haven't ridden the current '14 FJR model.

In the last few years I've owned: Several HD's, Goldwing and F6B, BMW K1600GTL, K1600GT, R1200RT, and for a month recently a '14 R1200RTW. Would I own another BMW? No. Would I own another R1200RTW? No. Would I own another FJR with the current specs? Probably after a test ride, and someday I might add one if it fits my body.

The new RT is better than the earlier models in some regards, but not all in my experience. The engine is smoother below 5K rpm, has good fueling, especially at low parking lot speeds, and has very comfortable weather protection. It's expensive to own and maintain, and there have been issues with component failures in other BMW's that may eventually appear in the RT. Not sure yet. The suspension is odd in all modes, and as some have noted, rides rougher than my '11 RT did. Don't know why. It feels like doing pushups on less than perfect roads.

What I miss about the FJR is the Yamaha attention to detail, engine, parts fit, and ride. Yes it's been a while and we tend to recall the good and forget the bad. But If I were to buy a sport touring bike today it would likely be another FJR.

 

[JimNtexas]

One plus for BMW is that you can test ride them at pretty much every BMW dealer.

I bought my FJR after I was able to test one at the Dallas IMS in 2008. I was lucky, because as far as I know the Yamaha demo truck has never been back to Texas since then.

I know of nowhere in Texas where one could rent or test ride an FJR.

 

[bergmen]

I got to ride my friend's brand new R1200RT this past Sunday (we traded and he got to ride my 2014 A). Rode it for about 50 miles in the mountain twisties of the Santa Cruz mountains.

I agree with most that has been said. I found the seat and seating position excellent and very comfortable. Handling very nice with almost no pressure to initiate the turn (the opposite of my FJR which takes a pretty good shove). Brakes excellent and gobs of torque.

I was put off by the enormous width of the front of the gas tank and the fairing. I suppose it is intended to give the rider good protection from the elements but I wasn't too impressed with the garage-door sized windshield in both shape and comfort. Still felt a fair amount of buffetting. The shield also has a wierd shape at the top edge, it has "wing"s that extend above the center. Somewhat visually distracting, I could not see the functional advantage. Handlebars are very wide also. I think if they came out with an RS version, that would be the beez neez.

Another thing. This was the fully equipped, all options model. I found that there are really way more bells and whistles than I would ever need or want. Just the facts, ma'am.

Nice bike, not my cuppa tea. The FJR is.

Dan

 

[Jack D]

I thought I would finally weigh in here having had an RT and now a 2009FJR. I was a dirt rider but bought an ST1100 in 96 to do some touring riding with my retired parents. They had to quit riding shortly thereafter. I started doing long distance rides and eventually my wife went with me to Missouri one time and decided she liked it. This was in 2005 and there was now over 80 Kmiles on the ST. I wanted her to go with me a lot more often so I bought a wing for her comfort. We did 100K on the wing and decided it was time for something smaller. Enter the 2006 RT that I bought at a steal price from someone that wanted to get out of town fast.The 2006 RT had the "power brakes" that had a controller that cost about $3000 to replace. It had the no drain plug, no vent final drive and of course the infamous BWM final drive reputation. I purchased an extended warranty from the local BMW dealer as I had NO faith in BMW reliability. I rode the RT for 40-50K until an incident with a SUV in Baton Rouge ended my RT's traveling days. I do all my own maintenance on all my bikes and while I am not as aggressive a rider now as I was on my ST I have no chicken stripes on my tires when I feel like playing around in the twisty sections. However most of my riding is straight line back road stuff as it is a long way between point A and B in the southwest. Now the FJR, I wanted one since they first came out but did the wing thing first. While I still had the RT a GENII FJR was traded into the BMW dealer so I took it out for an hour or so, showed it to the wife and said I was going to buy it if I could work out a deal with the dealer. I could not work out the deal and so I left on my RT. I remember thinking "why did I want the FJR when the RT is so much more comfortable to me?". But the RT died an embarrassing death and I needed another touring bike. I finally saw my 2009 at a dealer, they gave me a decent price and now I have 40-50K on it. I feel qualified to make a comparison between the 2006 RT and the 2009 FJR. The RT had slightly better ergonomics for me than the FJR with the Helibar triple clamp. The RT had much better weather protection. The FJR has a much smoother and more powerful engine. Transmissions are about equal (meaning agricultural like most shaft drives when compared to chain drives) but you can downshift the FJR into 1st gear when rolling while the BMW made horrible noises when trying that. (The new water cooled GSA allows you to do so therefore I assume the new RT will as well) It is much easier to check the RT valves than the FJR but the BMW will need adjusting while so far the FJR at 64K has not needed any changes. The FJR interval between checks is ~25K and the RT was 6K although I only did it at 12K intervals. Changing the air cleaner on the FJR is less than 1/2 hour but the RT was about 2 hours working at a relaxed pace. The RT required a throttle body sync every valve adjustment and it needed to be adjusted every time. There is no linkage between the throttle bodies, each throttle body has it's own cable. The RT did get better gas mileage than the FJR but not much better and I ran it on 87 octane when using name brand gasoline. I do the same on the FJR. Neither bike has given me any mechanical issues but I was always expecting problems from the RT. Luggage capacity on both bikes sucked for long distance touring but they suck equally so it was a wash. Where I see the big difference between the two is the handling in curves. The RT with PR2 tires would slip a lot. PR3 tires worked a lot better on the RT. I have only run PR3 and PR4 tires on the FJR. I have never had the FJR step out on me like the RT did with PR2s. BUT I disagree completely with the earlier post in this thread that said the RT required more turning effort than the FJR. The FJR with new tires 40-42 psi rear, 38-40 front requires more effort to turn in and I have to constantly maintain counter steering pressure to keep the bike laid over. The FJR, like the Connie 1400, is much more sensitive to tire pressure and tire wear than the RT IMHO. I think a few trips down the Dragon on the FJR would leave my arms tired whereas the RT would not bother me at all. I have not ridden the new water cooled RT but I did stop by the dealer and sat on one. I also sat on the new FJR. If i was to buy a new bike today it would after considering all aspects be the FJR or possibly the Tenere for my touring needs.

 

[David Foley]

Jack D. Read your post and enjoyed it!

You have to use paragraphs however.

I usually enjoy this fine forum after a couple of single malts and your post had me seeing double.

Agree with your sentiments about FJR's and RT's though - I think

 

[Just Krusen]

Where I see the big difference between the two is the handling in curves. The RT with PR2 tires would slip a lot. PR3 tires worked a lot better on the RT. I have only run PR3 and PR4 tires on the FJR. I have never had the FJR step out on me like the RT did with PR2s. BUT I disagree completely with the earlier post in this thread that said the RT required more turning effort than the FJR. The FJR with new tires 40-42 psi rear, 38-40 front requires more effort to turn in and I have to constantly maintain counter steering pressure to keep the bike laid over. The FJR, like the Connie 1400, is much more sensitive to tire pressure and tire wear than the RT IMHO.

I had a new '06 for 3 years. I agree with your post but especially the part quoted above. PR2's sucked on the RT so I went with Continental's.

 

[Northsquad]

I owned a 2003 RT, and it was a good machine, but the engine was underpowered, and plain annoying surged all the time. FYI anyone looking to buy a 2014 BMW won't be able to, and if you own one BMW sent you a letter asking you not ride it. Seems they have an issue with the rear shock that can collapse causing the rear wheel to crash into the fender and subframe, and we all know what happens then. The bike stops immediately and you fly through the air.

https://ultimatemotorcycling.com/bmw-announces-recall-2014-r-1200-rt-motorcycle-news/

 

[johnww]

I was trolling the BMOA forum and saw a thread that BMW has issued a request to all 2014 1200RTW owners to park their bikes pending resolution of a problem with the elecronic suspension system. There are some pretty unhappy owners over there, some who have trips planned on their new bikes and are now SOL. I guess kudos to BMW for issuing the request before someone gets hurt. Can't help but wonder how long the owners will be without rides.

 

[tuggy]

FYI

https://www.motorcyclenews.com/mcn/news/newsresults/general-news/2014/june/jun0514-bmwrecall/bmw/r1200rt/_/R-EPI-144058

 

[BanjoBoy]

I owned a 2003 RT, and it was a good machine, but the engine was underpowered, and plain annoying surged all the time. FYI anyone looking to buy a 2014 BMW won't be able to, and if you own one BMW sent you a letter asking you not ride it. Seems they have an issue with the rear shock that can collapse causing the rear wheel to crash into the fender and subframe, and we all know what happens then. The bike stops immediately and you fly through the air.

https://ultimatemotorcycling.com/bmw-announces-recall-2014-r-1200-rt-motorcycle-news/

 

[Top_Speed1]

I've tried to tell some of my 2 banger buddies (all the time!) to come to the other side and experience some massive torque and horsepower with the super smooooth 6 banger. Nope. They luv da boxer, most don't have the H2O-head one that is effected in the recall anyways but I gotta get in some friendly ribbing!

On the moa forum... well, they're just dedicated boxer fanatics, most are just waiting for the factory fixie, a couple are voicing up. Not really any huge ordeal at all and most are riding even with the Mothership saying don't.

World is still turning 24/7 last I looked

 

[Grimmster]

Great discussion... I have an '04 RT sitting in the garage next to my new (to me) 2010 FJR.

Short story about "German Engineering"

To remove the battery from the 2001-2004 RT's you have to remove the left mirror, remove the left side body panel (15 torx & 2 hex on the chin coupler between the 2 main body panels), ease the panel over the pipes without breaking the narrowest of the plastic sections, unbolt the air intake, unplug the O2 sensor, ease the battery out sideways to expose the negative terminal, remove wire from negative because it will interfere with the positive wire if attempting to slide battery out completely, and finally expose positive terminal while balancing the 80% removed unit on the edge of the battery box...

The story was short, but the actual procedure isn't!

Thank you Bavaria.

 

[BanjoBoy]

Great discussion... I have an '04 RT sitting in the garage next to my new (to me) 2010 FJR. Short story about "German Engineering" To remove the battery from the 2001-2004 RT's you have to remove the left mirror, remove the left side body panel (15 torx & 2 hex on the chin coupler between the 2 main body panels), ease the panel over the pipes without breaking the narrowest of the plastic sections, unbolt the air intake, unplug the O2 sensor, ease the battery out sideways to expose the negative terminal, remove wire from negative because it will interfere with the positive wire if attempting to slide battery out completely, and finally expose positive terminal while balancing the 80% removed unit on the edge of the battery box... The story was short, but the actual procedure isn't! Thank you Bavaria.

Whenever somebody whines about battery access on the FJR, show 'em ^THIS^!

When I foolishly owned a Buy Mor Warranty, I kept look'in at the thang think'in "why'd they do it like that?" They design 'em like Rube Goldberg mouse traps; an over complicated failure waiting to happen! Just look at all them beta testers have'in ta park their pofs 2014 RTs.

(Glad the OP didn't buy one.)

 

[Slardy]

I have a friend on a 2010 Concours 14. To replace the air filter, he has to remove a significant portion of the left fairing. Takes hours. He complains bitterly about this.

Slardy

 

[Top_Speed1]

OP-

I'm active on both MOA and K16 Forums. The RT has had drive failures, and quite a few of them at that. A vast majority of those owners however will not give those 2 bangers up. Dedicated or maybe more-so stubborn old jack-asses. Personally I would not want one, air or water head.

Do yourself a favor... test drive the flagship (not my wording, but rather most ST bike reviewers) of all sport tourers... the K16GT. It clearly blows everything else out of the water, price wise also, so hang on. The battery is under the front seat (where it should be!) and it does weigh a bit more than my FJR, BUT it plays lighter!. Not only my words either, every past FJR owner who has naturally progressed to this bike will say the same thing. It's a beast that plays better than the FJR. Whenever someone (over there) finds out that I own an FJR, I usually get a response "oh, I had one of those before my K16!). It's all good, no haters or jealousy and they'll tell it like it is.

So test drive one, and for several hours at that! (almost all Beemer dealers will let you, make friends n chat some w your dealer first). After (lets say) 2+ hrs on the K16, you will first notice no vibration or hum period. You won't notice per-say ahead of time, just after your test drive and hop back on your FJR... so bring your wallet . I'd say they're probably at least 50 of us on K1600forum.com that were (or still are like me!) owners of the FJR (and a few are Connie or ST ex-saddlers). It's a natural progression for ST riders to evolve into. Yes it has a million toys and gizmo's but you can order one without! (not me, I'm a gizmo and doohickey fanatic!).

To stick up for the FJR, it is a great bike for the money. If you wanna keep your fun at or around the $15K range, then stay with the FJR all the way. IF your pockets are heavy and you need to unload it sum... WHAT A FREEQ'N BIKE! It's all that and then some. Duly noted, it is very expensive! (3 Year warranty is standard for any of you "Deliverance" fans).

 

[MCRIDER007]

I have a friend on a 2010 Concours 14. To replace the air filter, he has to remove a significant portion of the left fairing. Takes hours. He complains bitterly about this.

He must be pretty slow if it takes hours....wait until he has to replace the radiator fluid and has to remove both the left and right fairings.