The Bike forgot where neutral is.

[James]

I don't think I've seen this one before on the list- my bike doesn't know when it's in neutral all of the sudden. I can put it in neutral, but the green light won't come on, the glove box won't open, and it won't start w/out the clutch pulled in. And that can be a bit iffy sometimes, as the bike lives outside. I clean the switch as needed, but it's getting worn out & I need to replace it. When it was acting up, I'd just shift it into neutral & start it and clean it when I got home. So today, it suddenly doesn't know when it's in neutral. So until I get that figured out, I think I'm going to jump the connections that plug into the clutch switch so it'll always start in or out of gear, thinking the clutch is pulled in (as it will be). Any other suggestions? Thanks,

 

[Constant Mesh]

You can easily perform an electrical test on the neutral switch. If you remove the seat you'll see a square cross section frame tube mounted from side-to-side horizontally just under the seat. Just behind the tube are two electrical devices. The one on the right side has a bunch of wires making a connection. On the electrical drawing it's labeled the "relay unit". The other device on the left side is the "lean angle cut-off switch".

The neutral switch has one wire which connects to the relay unit on the right. It's a "sky blue" wire. When you've shifted to the neutral position the sky blue wire is grounded to the engine. When you're not in neutral this wire should be ungrounded, it should read many ohms above zero (maybe infinite) -- the circuit loops through the glove box relay coil and other stuff.

When this wire is grounded (you're in neutral) the glove box solenoid release is actuated and you can open and close the lid.

With the ignition switched "off" (powered down) you can check this wire with an ohmmeter. Verify the switched ground as you shift between neutral and 1st gear.

When the ignition is switched "on" you'll need to check for voltage and not ohms. When you're in neutral you should measure 0 volts (ground) between the wire and engine and when you're not in neutral you should measure 12+ volts between the wire and engine -- voltage from the glove box relay coil.

 

[wfooshee]

To add to that, if the electrical tests come out bad, specifically if you don't have 0 ohms at the sky blue wire with the key off and in neutral, then you'll need a neutral switch. It's possible that a connector between that one under the seat and the actual switch is bad, the wire cut, even that the connector on the switch is loose, but not likely.

 

[James]

Well, was planning to run tests today, as I'm off work, but yesterday went to start the bike & nothing. As a back story, my ignition switch went out late in the fall & I by-passed it, figuring I'd replace it in the spring when it warmed up (yes, there's a plan). And a month ago, I had my local dealer adjust my valves & replace the cam chain. Then yesterday, lights come on (no neutral), hear the fuel pump, but when I hit the starter button, nothing. Checked my jumper on the clutch switch, it was still good. So. Drive to work, & today run the above tests and get 0 ohms in neutral or 1st, key off, and 12 volts w/key on in neutral or first. I had lifted the tank & removed the smaller side covers & looked for pinched wires, ect., thinking it could have happened when the dealer was in there. They had left the nut off the bolt the tank pivots on off, but nothing seemed out of place. Basically wiggled some wires while testing and that's it. Thought, lets try the start button and of course it starts. Makes me think a wires rubbed off it's insulation somewhere, but I can't see where. Sigh.

 

[wfooshee]

That nut being gone is not going to affect anything's location unless the bolt across the back of the tank actually slides out. You need to get that nut, though.

As for a wire being pinches, sounds like a possibility, but as for locating it, lots-o-luck there, goober! But if the problem's gone away with a judicious reshuffling of the boundaries, then maybe it won't come back.

Remove your clutch jumper and check the function, though, be sure the interlock is correct. Sidestand down, no start unless in neutral. Sidestand up, no start unless in neutral or clutched.

 

[James]

O.K., a resolution. It was the relay that went bad. So if the side stand was down, OR the clutch wasn't pulled in, in neutral or not, it wouldn't start. As well as not recognizing neutral. So, a message has been sent to Mike, and if anyone else has that relay (5PW-81950-00) (and/or the clutch switch, 3GM-83980-00-00), send me a message. Otherwise I'll get new one's online, as my dealer wants about double the new price I see online. Thanks for the help,

 

[monkin]

Thanks for the update.