...You seriously don't see what you just did? You asked us for help selecting a fork oil, and after a bunch of input, all of it helpful, you tell us: I'll just ask the guys I bought my suspension parts from.
So seriously, why would you have not done that in the first place if you weren't going to pay any attention the the advice you were given?
Why should anyone make the effort to help you again?
Well let me paint the picture for you, Fred
It started when I combed through several threads on several forums to learn about fork oil. When I came across this one, there was clearly justification to not grab just any oil off the shelf.
I received a recommendation from one mechanic to go to a heavier weight oil because I am a heavier guy, suggesting to me that the weight of the oil has a relationship with the desired level of damping; something you contradicted earlier in this thread.
Then I received a recommendation from someone who was just as much a stranger to me as you or anyone else on this thread to use a specific oil. That oil, however, was not listed on the viscosity charts and it appeared to have several variations as I illustrated earlier.
YOU also stated that early in the thread that you can't go by what you read on the bottle nor by what was done yesteryear, you have to go to the charts. But the charts that have been referred to so far are either outdated, missing a published date, not from a credited sources, and/or missing currently produced oils.
Then it was stated:
The Motul 5W factory line is the fully synthetic and is the closest to the Ohlins R&T43. Without the exact figures from Yamaha I have been working on the assumption that the M1 is the same or damn close to the Ohlins (19 cSt). My choice would be the Motul 5W (18 cSt) or possibly Silkolene 02 which is also fully synthetic (17.94 cSt)
Then you wrote:
I had never noticed the changes before this thread, but going back through all of the specs that I've accumulated I now see that the Yamaha 01 suspension fluid was only the specified fork oil for 1st Gens. For all second Gens from 2006 thru 2012 only Ohlins R&T43 in the specifications charts. And now all 3rd Gens (both A and ES) the charts specify Yamaha M1 suspension fluid.
and further:
Going with replacement aftermarket valves (or cartridge) can lessen the need for such a thin suspension fluid by increasing the number and size of the high speed orifices. If you have upgraded your fork valves you really NEED to ask the manufacturer what viscosity (in cSt) they recommend with their valves. Just make sure that they understand that the bike will be used on real world streets, not a nice smooth race track.
That's when I piped in stating it was all as clear as mud. Immediately, someone raised the point :
GP Suspension used Motorex 5w fork oil to develop their damping cartridges and that oil has a viscosity of 22.6 Cst at 40C which is pretty close to a number or other premium fork oils, some called 5w and others called 7 or 7.5 wt. I have also mixed oils (Honda SS7 and Honda SS8) to achieve that viscosity with good results. When Jay brought Motul 7.5 to tech day to install in his forks we searched the Internet to verify the actual viscosity of that oil but were unsuccessful, but he has been very happy with the results so that is an viable alternative if you can find it. Maxium 7w is the right viscosity, easy to find, and seem to be a favorite of many suspension shops.
But this doesn't clear anything up for me but rather raises more questions such as: does this apply to 25 mm valves or just the cartridges? And, is "22.6Cst too high" since it falls outside the window that you recommend. Plus, in another thread, someone stated the brand they use is different than the one quoted above. I also found that there was more than one "Motul 7.5" and more than one "Maxium 7w" (actually, it was called Maxima - -or is this another brand? Oh wait...what's Motrex?).
Plus, I don't know if "Jay" has the same front end as I do so his results mean nothing. Don't forget that YOU stated that you have to match the viscosity to the valves, not to the rider or the OEM recommendations. But wait...didn't also state that the oils the aftermarket guys use/recommend is geared to the "smooth track" and shouldn't necessarily be used for normal riding conditions ?
Then you've got one person stating how stark the perceptable difference is when you use the wrong weight oil, another person stating we're all splitting hairs and you say to make sure the cSt falls within such and such a window ( if you're using OEM suspension, which I am not ).
Of everyone contributing to the thread, your tone implied to me more than anyone else that you were the resident expert, but then your stock fell when you implied that you didn't even know what the SIS-VI numbers that are plastered in bold on all bottles of fork oil meant, and you reinforced my belief that this is not a simple as I thought it would be. :
Good to know. Unfortunately it is not widely adopted, so only helps if comparing those that do use that technique. It's not like they are making it easy for us. Right?
I looked on my invoice from GP and it stated that they used a "5wt" oil but nothing more specific.
But you then wrote :
See, here's the problem. You know you want something similar to the OEM stuff. People say you should use a 5 weight fork oil. You look on the shelf at your LBS and you see an assortment of 5 weight fork oils:. What you do not see is the centistoke ratings of the oils in parenthesis below
Torco RFF 5 (10.75 cSt)
Maxima Fork Oil 5 Weight (15.9 cSt)
Maxima Racing Fork Fluid 5 Weight (15.9 cSt)
Silkolene Pro RSF 5 Weight (26.7 cSt)
Castrol Synthetic 5 Weight (28 cSt)
PJ1 Fork Tuner 5 Weight (31.2 cSt)
Shell Advance 5 Weight (33.05 cSt)
Combine that with the statement you made earlier of the necessity to inquire direct to the mfg on what oil
they use to develop their valves and the recommendation that you made NOT to regard the weight of the oil as something you use to adjust your suspension, I was still far from making an informed decision. The fact that you "disagreed completely" with another in depth contributor to this thread also thinned the reliability of what I was reading from others. Keep in mind as well that all this occurred in what, a 24 to 48 hr period?
And the reason why I didn't call GP in the first place? Well, because it's a business and businesses often do some things on the cheap. Plus I would have to go through a receptionist to get that information. So I figured better to try someplace like this forum first.
So in summary, the reason why I am contacting GP is in fact because I
am paying attention to all the advice I was being given. I think you just got upset when I didn't follow yours exclusively.