The Cooker has it's first illness...
- Thread starter PapaUtah
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donaldb
Well-known member
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
And pay out the nose? No thank-you. $52.59 at ZanottiMotors.com.
Bruce - as Ionbeam alluded to above, this is not an easy item to swap out. I don't know if having it done while doing a valve adjustment makes it any easier or not. I don't think so - anybody out there know? Personally, despite what our fooked up friend from Kali says, I wouldn't have it done until it needs it. Most problems with the cam chain tensioner I have heard of happen at later mileage. 60,00-100,000. Mine was replaced at 110,000 after experiencing cam chain noise for a while.
And there are many high mileage FJRs out there with their original, perfectly operating CCT. How do you know the next one you put in won't be the one that fails early, while your current one will last a long time? So with parts and labor, how much will it cost you to fix something that ain't broke?
That's my way of thinking. Advice worth exactly what you paid for it.
Edit - Ooops, I just went back and read where you think you are getting noise. If that's the case, then by all means get it swapped out. I would be sure what you are hearing is cam chain noise however. While not impossible, 28k on the odo is pretty early to be experiencing this type of wear.
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FJRay
Well-known member
I just replaced mine at 70k. I had it out about 5k back and really don't see anyway for it to screw up but after nafo it had a lot of noise that I could eliminate by messing with the screw. If Yamaha would sell the spring seperatly it would be nice but that isn't the case. Other than lifting the tank I don't think it matters that you are adjusting the valves at the same time as far as saving any labor.
Be prepared for a battle cause it is a real pain in the ass to get out and back in. Make sure you line up the arrow so you don't have to do it twice. I also tensioned the chain with some safety wire so cam timing would't slip while changing the tensioner.
It has a lot less noise than before. I did not change the guides as there was no sign of wear. Enjoy!!!
Be prepared for a battle cause it is a real pain in the ass to get out and back in. Make sure you line up the arrow so you don't have to do it twice. I also tensioned the chain with some safety wire so cam timing would't slip while changing the tensioner.
It has a lot less noise than before. I did not change the guides as there was no sign of wear. Enjoy!!!
donaldb
Well-known member
Welp...................
Your prolly right.................but I'm going to have it ck'd while in for valve adj.
This dam forum makes me paranoid sometimes.
:dntknw:
radman
R.I.P. Our Motorcycling Friend
ionbeam
2 FUN
[SIZE=18pt]LOL!!![/SIZE] :lol:
Cam chains are for Gen I paranoia.
The Gen II owners are fated to the Ignition Switch from Hades, designed and made by Lucas Electrics, the Prince of Darkness. It melts first time, every time.
I have a cam chain question as well. I have an 05 with over 36,000 miles. The cam chain tensioner was replaced at 32,000 due to a lot of noise. I had it done at the same time the valves were adjusted (only one was out of spec)
Everything was as quiet as could be - bike ran and sounded like new for the past 4000 miles as far as any noises from the cam chain were concerned. However, a couple weeks ago the cam chain started making a lot of noise way down low on the right side. I stopped, asked the mechanic if it was possible that the cam chain tensioner needed adjustment. He said the idle sounded low, and that that was why I was hearing the noise. Even with the 'higher' idle it is still pretty loud when idling. It is a bit un-nerving to me as I do not like hearing noises like cam chains - it makes me think I could end up with a bigger problem.
I have the workshop manual, and am mechanically inclined for basics (TPS, TBS, plugs, etc... I paid to get the valves adjusted and the cam chain tensioner put in).
That is all of the bakground - here is my question: Reading this thread makes me wonder if the cam chain itself needs replacement? Or is there a way to adjust the cam chain tensioner to take up the slack? Or is the tensioner not adjustable like that? Like it is installed and "self-tensions" for lack of a better way to describe it?
Thanks for any advice.
Allen
Everything was as quiet as could be - bike ran and sounded like new for the past 4000 miles as far as any noises from the cam chain were concerned. However, a couple weeks ago the cam chain started making a lot of noise way down low on the right side. I stopped, asked the mechanic if it was possible that the cam chain tensioner needed adjustment. He said the idle sounded low, and that that was why I was hearing the noise. Even with the 'higher' idle it is still pretty loud when idling. It is a bit un-nerving to me as I do not like hearing noises like cam chains - it makes me think I could end up with a bigger problem.
I have the workshop manual, and am mechanically inclined for basics (TPS, TBS, plugs, etc... I paid to get the valves adjusted and the cam chain tensioner put in).
That is all of the bakground - here is my question: Reading this thread makes me wonder if the cam chain itself needs replacement? Or is there a way to adjust the cam chain tensioner to take up the slack? Or is the tensioner not adjustable like that? Like it is installed and "self-tensions" for lack of a better way to describe it?
Thanks for any advice.
Allen
ionbeam
2 FUN
The cam chain tensioner is self adjusting. Internally there is a spring and a spirally grooved shaft that pushes out the tensioner post. The shaft can only extend and should never compress on its own. The only time it may retract is when you use a screwdriver to manually retract it. The single reason the tensioner extends is due to cam chain wear and minute gear wear. When the whole chain/tensioner system is new the tensioner's plunger is at its shortest and under the most spring tension. As the chain wears the plunger extends causing the spring to becomes less compressed. The spring pressure becomes less as it extends; a time when spring tension should actually be equal or stronger. See post #18 in this tread. When all the parts of the system are new the cam chain tensioner will already be ~50% extended and when the cam chain is worn to the point of needing to be replaced the cam chain tensioner will be ~75% extended.
To replace the cam chain the valve cover has to come off, the pickup rotor cover has to come off, the cylinder identification rotor has to be removed** and the cam chain tensioner retracted. Putting it back together requires great care to keep both cam shaft gears and the cylinder identification gear all mechanically timed together.
** The FSM tells you to remove the stator cover and use a special holding tool to keep the crank from moving when removing the cylinder identification rotor. This job is simple if you have an impact wrench. If you don’t have an impact wrench it is possible to remove the rotor by keeping the engine in gear and holding the rear wheel to keep the crank from turning.
To replace the cam chain the valve cover has to come off, the pickup rotor cover has to come off, the cylinder identification rotor has to be removed** and the cam chain tensioner retracted. Putting it back together requires great care to keep both cam shaft gears and the cylinder identification gear all mechanically timed together.
** The FSM tells you to remove the stator cover and use a special holding tool to keep the crank from moving when removing the cylinder identification rotor. This job is simple if you have an impact wrench. If you don’t have an impact wrench it is possible to remove the rotor by keeping the engine in gear and holding the rear wheel to keep the crank from turning.
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Thanks Alan. I am guessing then, that with the noise, and since the tensioner is new, I should have the cam chain inspected and possibly replaced. I can't imagine the new tensioner is bad after 4000 miles. Maybe I am being too concerned - but I would not want something worse to happen to the engine, of course.
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
Too concerned? Well that's hard to do, but be sure that you are not hearnig normal valvetrain or engine noise. And I think it's quite possible that your (new) tensioner is bad. I know a guy who went through 3 of them in 100k or so. With your mileage, I would find it hard to believe that your cam chain is so worn that it's past function of the tensioner, but that is possible. Still, a new cam chain is only about $17.
I love my FJ 08 but my road king 05 is a traveling fool ,also NO CAM CHAIN ADJ. one rainy tuesday i was at my hd dealer and bot a set of andrews gear drive cams and a set of adjustable push rods installed them myself in about 2hrs Didn't have to remove head nothing but the cam side cover wa-la hot cams and gear drive and no tensioners. the only hi teck tool i needed was a set of bolt cuters to cut the push rods. also it dynoed 93 ft. lbs at rear.
The Cooker went to the doctor last night. I shall pass on the diagnosis when I get the word. The mechanic is FJR savvy. He currently has a 04 on the bench for the tick. I am confident of his skills. Hopefully I will be back up and running for the holiday weekend. :yahoo:
The Cooker has been diagnosed. It is the cam chain tensioner. The cam chain and guide are fine. The tensioner is/was not operating properly. New tensioner and gasket are ordered. YES has paid for itself as far as I am concerned. Parts are on order, should get the Cooker back back in time for the holiday weekend!
:yahoo: :clapping: :yahoo:
:yahoo: :clapping: :yahoo:
