The Old Stearing Bearing Fiasco...again

[FJRocket]

<_< I dunno what's wrong with me. I keep buying FJRs and they all seem to have improperly torqued steering head bearings. Ok, I only bought two FJRs, but BOTH had that funky POP POP when you pump the forks up and down a short while after leaving the dealership.

I got all of 300 miles on my AE, and I went to my local dealer to have them take a looksee. I'm pretty sure what it is. Exactly the same symptoms as my '04. Which I bought at this dealer. And another bike, and a car. Does that carry any weight?

"Did you buy it here?"

No.

"Oh, that's a set up problem. Take it back where you bought it."

Uh, it's 400 miles away, and I think this is a warranty issue. I wasn't doing it at the beginning, just in the last 100 miles or so.

"Oh no, it's a set up issue and the other dealer would have to make good on it."

Uh, no, it's a warranty issue. Just like the other FJR THAT I BOUGHT HERE that had exactly the same problem. After I left the dealership.

"Well we can certainly take care of it, I'm just not sure Yamaha will cover it." (as in we're charging you)

:angry: Hmmmm... you took care of it on my other bike. Look this thing only has 300 miles on it. It has a problem, and it's brand new. I'd like it fixed, please. Last time when it was fixed, they did it while I waited.

"Oh no, it's a 4 hour job."

:angry: (thinking to myself WTF?) (Thinking to myself...this is why I didn't buy here...should reconsider the service....buy the tools, do it myself...) (Getting ready to leave before I blow up... it's 97 and I've been riding for 3 hours without stopping)

Um, YOU did the service I'm talking about.

"Oh, we used to just take a hammer and tap the bearings. We don't do it that way any more."

<_< (mentally rolling my eyes... glad to know the did my other bike that way.. maybe... 27K ago.) (******** meter is maxed, and the stench is horrendous) (staring ensues)

"OK, well let me check something...."

(Time for a drink of water.... OH BOY, A 50th ANNIVERSARY R1 sitting on the showroom floor!!! Oh, don't SHOW me stuff like that. Sweet all black R6, too.... Ah, I feel better...)

(I get the bike and start moving it away from the service bays, more to get it in the shade. Bike therm shows 105...)

"Ok, I just called Yamaha and Fred (supervisor) said we could take care of this under warranty for you since your bike has less than 600 miles. It will take about 1 hour. When would you like to do it?"

(I could tell by his look that he was hoping I wasn't going to insist that they do it right now... Well, I am a ****, but not THAT big a ****....)

When would be good for you? (the guy gets a big smile)

"We're closed tomorrow.... after that we could work you in about any time...."

(I'm amazed at the flip flop, and glad I didn't explode or cop a major attitude... considering the run around at the beginning and the temp, it was all I could do....)

How about Friday after lunch?

"Great. That's perfect. Let's get the paperwork started and I'll put you in the schedule."

Perhaps the service manager was right, and the dealer who sold me the bike might have caught it, but I don't think so. I didn't notice it during the first couple hundred miles. There was some discussion in another thread about the 600 mile service and checking the bearings. Does that mean we would have to PAY for them to get tightened if they were all wonky like both my FJR's were? Was I out of line asking them to do it for free? I don't think so, but I was beginning to doubt my position.

What really sucks is that I now have to keep the miles down. Of course, it would be very easy to have 600 miles when I take it back, but I guess I should keep down the likelyhood that they might have to REPLACE the bearings..they won't have them in stock, I gaurantee that. And I want to do the other 600 mile service myself...

And what really REALLY sucks is that I have to hang around the dealership with an anniversary R1 and an all black R6 staring at me. Taunting me.... Calling me... Teasing me... Oh, the agony....

 

[slapnpop]

Given that the forks are already on the bike in the crate, I fail to see how this could POSSBILY be considered a setup issue.

And if the shop admitted to using the screwdriver method on your old FJR, I wouldn't trust them to do diddlysquat!

 

[jestal]

Jeez....in the 20 minutes you spent argueing with them you could have tapped/turned the castled nut a flat or two yourself and been done with it..... Why risk them even touching your bike much less taking it into their shop and laying wrenches (even the right one) on it??

 

[FlyingLow]

Given that the forks are already on the bike in the crate, I fail to see how this could POSSBILY be considered a setup issue.
And if the shop admitted to using the screwdriver method on your old FJR, I wouldn't trust them to do diddlysquat!

Ya know, I've wondered about that; how much set-up is involved in the set-up. Steering head fully assembled and installed at the factory, and this is how it comes outta the crate? If so we should expect it to be assembled correctly but with minimal grease.

 

[twowheelnut]

Ya know, I've wondered about that; how much set-up is involved in the set-up. Steering head fully assembled and installed at the factory, and this is how it comes outta the crate? If so we should expect it to be assembled correctly but with minimal grease.

I would imagine that it's part of the safety check. You know, check all the important bits so they don't fall off and create a, gulp, liability. The steering head nut is one of the few nuts/bolts/fasteners without the blue "Yup, we checked that part for correct torque on the assembly line" marker dot.

 

[Bike Effects]

I have not had a great number of bikes but every one of them has needed to get the steering stem bearings re-torqued after a few miles.

 

[FJRocket]

I have not had a great number of bikes but every one of them has needed to get the steering stem bearings re-torqued after a few miles.

Thanks B E, that's good to know.

So is this the project that takes the special spanner, or is this a simple process of just removing the cap, removing the handle bars and getting down to the two nuts over the top bearing with a regular socket?

Is this the project that has to be torqued and then detorqued a little?

If I can do it myself, I'd rather not waste the time to go down there and wait on heckle and jeckle to mangle it for me.

Seems like a long long time ago there was a thread about a source for the spanner (besides Yammy or Bike Johnny) in a generic form?

 

[Bike Effects]

I have not had a great number of bikes but every one of them has needed to get the steering stem bearings re-torqued after a few miles.

Thanks B E, that's good to know.

So is this the project that takes the special spanner, or is this a simple process of just removing the cap, removing the handle bars and getting down to the two nuts over the top bearing with a regular socket?

Is this the project that has to be torqued and then detorqued a little?

If I can do it myself, I'd rather not waste the time to go down there and wait on heckle and jeckle to mangle it for me.

Seems like a long long time ago there was a thread about a source for the spanner (besides Yammy or Bike Johnny) in a generic form?

I did this in my garage for another forum member recently. It just took a few minutes for two people to do it....one to stabilize the hanndlebar/upper triple clamp while the other did the work. I do have the spanner (had it for so many years I forgot where I got it) and the service manual as well as a torque wrench.

 

[Groo]

I did this in my garage for another forum member recently. It just took a few minutes for two people to do it....one to stabilize the hanndlebar/upper triple clamp while the other did the work. I do have the spanner (had it for so many years I forgot where I got it) and the service manual as well as a torque wrench.

If this is such a quick and easy thing to do... maybe somebody could bring their wrench to WFO, and we could torque steering bearings in a spot next to Warchild doing TBS's....

 

[jjsC6]

I have not had a great number of bikes but every one of them has needed to get the steering stem bearings re-torqued after a few miles.

Thanks B E, that's good to know.

So is this the project that takes the special spanner, or is this a simple process of just removing the cap, removing the handle bars and getting down to the two nuts over the top bearing with a regular socket?

Is this the project that has to be torqued and then detorqued a little?

If I can do it myself, I'd rather not waste the time to go down there and wait on heckle and jeckle to mangle it for me.

Seems like a long long time ago there was a thread about a source for the spanner (besides Yammy or Bike Johnny) in a generic form?

I did this in my garage for another forum member recently. It just took a few minutes for two people to do it....one to stabilize the hanndlebar/upper triple clamp while the other did the work. I do have the spanner (had it for so many years I forgot where I got it) and the service manual as well as a torque wrench.

If this is such a quick and easy thing to do... maybe somebody could bring their wrench to WFO, and we could torque steering bearings in a spot next to Warchild doing TBS's....

Hey Groo, I have a few things I'd sure like you to help me adjust on mine when you get time. My garage is air conditioned, and my wife bakes some pretty mean sweets. Let me know when would be good for you!

 

[SkooterG]

Good Grief!

People, people, people............lets watch that abuse of the quote functioh, eh? You're making these threads ridiculous to read. Completely unnecessary.

- Your anal-retentive not-so-benevolent dictator third removed

 

[Bounce]

Ya know, I've wondered about that; how much set-up is involved in the set-up. Steering head fully assembled and installed at the factory, and this is how it comes outta the crate? If so we should expect it to be assembled correctly but with minimal grease.

Yep. They simply mount the front wheel and fender.

https://www.bikes-n-spikes.org/maint/shb/shb.html

Pull-in to back-out time was about 1.5 hours for a complete service according to my notes. That means a bunch more than simply whacking the castle nut with a sledge hammer and flat blade screw driver.

 

[6mmbr]

Dude,

is this place of which you speak, somewhere in our great state, or that Ill state next door?

 

[FJRocket]

Dude,
is this place of which you speak, somewhere in our great state, or that Ill state next door?

It's the dealer about 6 miles from my house. The nearest one. The only multi dealer over in this area of Indiana. Why, pray tell, do you ask?

 

[6mmbr]

Thanks

I'll probably have service done in at a dealer in Indy and wanted to know if your experience was at that place - would give me a 'heads up' of what to expect or avoid.

I see you're out west but didn't know where your service was being done

thanks again

 

[radman]

Good Grief!
People, people, people............lets watch that abuse of the quote functioh, eh? You're making these threads ridiculous to read. Completely unnecessary.

- Your anal-retentive not-so-benevolent dictator third removed

Yeah!

On topic though, lacking the proper tools, one could do the dreaded Tap To Adjust with a drift and hammer, not that I would suggest this.....

 

[FJRocket]

Good Grief!

People, people, people............lets watch that abuse of the quote functioh, eh? You're making these threads ridiculous to read. Completely unnecessary.

- Your anal-retentive not-so-benevolent dictator third removed

Yeah!

On topic though, lacking the proper tools, one could do the dreaded Tap To Adjust with a drift and hammer, not that I would suggest this.....

What is a drift? I don't get your drift. I seem to be a drift.

 

[radman]

A drift is simply a rod of metal softer than the metal it is being used with, commonly made of brass. Could also be made of aluminum, though brass is what I use. This prevents the drift from damaging the metal it's contacting, kind of like a sacrificial anode, which will be in tomorrows lesson.........

 

[FJRocket]

Thank you for that explanation, Your Radness!