The one that got away.

[lonerider]

The last two sets of carbs that I cleaned, I had good luck with Yamaha Carb Dip. Disassembled carbs, removed plastic and rubber bits, put the pieces in an old cook pot with the carb dip diluted 50% with water, heated to around 200 degrees on a single burner hot plate, then turned off the heat and let them soak overnight. Rinsed out with clean water and blew out with compressed air the next day, reassembled and adjusted. Definitely a garage or outside job if heat is used (fumes).

 

[Bungie]

I had to order the screw in nipples for my Morgan Carb Tune (the originals got lost in the move) from Europe. They should be here next week.

Last night, I was farting around in the garage when the next thing I know, I've got the valve covers off (2 bolts each). I didn't have to remove ANYTHING to get them off. Nice and clean underneath. I grabbed my Clymer manual and decided to check the valves. Remove the cover over the crank bolt and the flywheel inspection cover, and finally, the two spark plugs.

I crank the engine over using a socket on the crank bolt. I watch the exhaust valves close and the intakes open, then close. I look inside the inspection hole to see TL. The Clymer manual says this TDC on the left cylinder. I give the rockers (oh yea, pushrods, rockers and screw type adjusters, just like your small block chev!) a wiggle.

WTF?

Their is no play in them.

Thinking I made a mistake, I redid the TDC boogie. Nope. Tight.

I adjust the left side, give the crank another twirl to get the right side up to TDC and find that right cylinder valves are tight too. Adust them.

Button everything back up and thumb the starter.

Bike fires up instantly and settles into a steady idle on the choke (something that it refused to do before). Hum, I'm hearing some clacking form the valves. I decide to let it get to operating temps before I decide if I should panic or not.

Gradually, the noise subsides, I flip it off the choke and it settles into a pretty smooth low speed idle.

SOB! It wasn't a vacuum leak or carb sync issue. The valves were tighter than a Irishman's wallet.

I still think the valves are making a bit to much noise full warm at idle, so I'm gonna redo the valve adjustment. I still do the mixture, and carb sync just because. But I'm much happier they way the engine is running now!

Thank god I didn't run it long with the rockers cranked down tight like that!

 

[Niehart]

The last two sets of carbs that I cleaned, I had good luck with Yamaha Carb Dip. Disassembled carbs, removed plastic and rubber bits, put the pieces in an old cook pot with the carb dip diluted 50% with water, heated to around 200 degrees on a single burner hot plate, then turned off the heat and let them soak overnight. Rinsed out with clean water and blew out with compressed air the next day, reassembled and adjusted. Definitely a garage or outside job if heat is used (fumes).

I use to do the same thing, except with vinegar. My Alaskan son-in-law was asking how to clean the carb on Yamaha IT175 that he bought and was rebuilding. Explained what I use to do to Dan and he tried it. It worked!

He did call up and ask what a good side dish world be with boiled carburetor.

 

[rushes]

He did call up and ask what a good side dish world be with boiled carburetor.

Steamed fuel tank....

 

[Bungie]

I had to clean the carbs on the 250 Ninja I bought a few years back. Turns out we can still get a gallon of carb cleaner at the local crappy tire. Disassemble, let soak, blow out the passages, rinse, re-assemble.

After sorting out the carbs on that bike (one of the mixture screws was screwed in all the way, from the factory - it still had the emissions cap on it), and, re-syncing the carbs it transformed the bike into one of the smoothest running engines at hwy speed I've ever felt.

Seriously, electric motor smooth at 7000 rpm. WAY smoother than the FJR at those speeds, let alone those rpms.