The Right Rotella?

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Joe Nardy

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I've read that a lot FJR riders use Shell Rotella Synthetic oil and that it is available at Wal-Mart. I have checked at several Wal-Marts and the Shell Rotella T Synthetic oil they sell seems to be marketed to diesel trucks. It is in a blue container, The label says Advanced Soot Control Rotella T Synthetic SAE 5W-40. The back label says "It belongs in your truck" but it also says it is applicable for diesel and gasoline cars. It looks like this:

Rotella.jpg


Is this the Shell Rotella all you people are using? I want to be sure before I buy it and put it in my FJR.

Thanks,

Joe

 
Thats the stuff ! There's really no wrong Rotella, even the dino version in the white jug is good stuff. Both have excellent additive packages that perform well in motorcycles without any of the clutch slipping energy-conserving slippery goo fear.

 
Thats the stuff ! There's really no wrong Rotella, even the dino version in the white jug is good stuff. Both have excellent additive packages that perform well in motorcycles without any of the clutch slipping energy-conserving slippery goo fear.
Thanks.................This is good info. The Rotella looks like a great alternative to the more expensive synthetics and the dino is very reasonably priced too.

Thanks again,

Joe

 
And some people add a bottle of blue STP to top it off. I really like the way the bike shifts with the Rotella/STP mix. No clutch issues at all, either. :thumbup:

 
AutoZone has a special deal through 8/24 on gallon jugs of Castrol Tection Extra 15W-40 diesel motor oil. This oil is equivalent to Rotella T, Mobil Delvac 1300, and Chevron Delo 400 diesel oil.

The deal is three 1 gallon jugs for $15.98. The regular price is $7.99 a gallon. Three gallons for the price of two.

A very good option for those using non-synthetic oil in their FJR.

https://www.autozone.com/images/in_our_stor...g11_page1_4.pdf

( 2.84 MB pdf )

 
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I noticed the same thing at Walmart a few days ago. The 'regular' Shell Rotella T Synthetic wasn't there but they did have the advanced soot control stuff. Still 5W-40 but package is slightly different. The 'regular' stuff has a little more white/yellow lettering etc. I bought it anyway so I don't have to go scrambling when the next oil change is due.

 
I was running the Rotella, but found the Mobil 1 full sunth 15-50 for just a few dollars more per gallon at Wally World. Somthing like $19.95/gal. (Don't qoute me on that) but the extra cost to get the 50w high temp protection seemed worth a try. So far it seems to work as good as any other oil.

 
I was a user, and proponent of, the Rotella T and STP combo. Did it smooth shifting? Appeared it did. Readily Available? You betcha, though places other than Wallace World stocked the Syn Rotella less frequently than the dino version. I now run the Mobil1 15w50, which I use in my other bike also. Why did I switch back? I, like CBX, like the 50w hot rating, my trips are never short ones, and so the 5w (for frequent cold start protection) is not a concern. Miles have smoothed the shifting, but, most importantly, technique has provided the biggest gain in shifting smoothness. No matter what was in the sump, I could clunk with the best of them until I figured out Frank likes it a certain way (STFU Tdub) :D The questions concerning STP's effect on the clutch unnerved me. I have noticed, after going back to the M1, that the clutch engagement has tightened up some, the STP made engagement a little softer. This tells me I made the right decision going back. YMMV, but I think I did the right thing. ;)

 
I don't understand...$12,000 dollor bike and trying to save a few cents on oil. I buy Yamalube by the case for $36. bucks. Thats 3 dollors a qt. and you know it is the right stuff. I buy my filters from university motors for less than $8. bucks and change every 2500-3000 miles or so. I am not saying the other stuff won't work, but why give mother Yamaha a reason to give you crap if a warrenty claim comes up...but hey thats what I do...good luck... :p

 
Well smitty, because there is better oil than what Yami sells, and there is definitely a better filter than what Yamaha sells. I doubt all the tickers that have been fixed have used Yami products exclusively, in any case, Yam cannot legally decline warranty repairs based on the oil and filter choices one makes, unless they are obviously unsuited for the machine. My choices have nothing to do with saving money-they have to do with using a superior product.

 
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Well, well, well....another oil thread... I love this stuff....My fellow FJRer Radman, when is the last time you, or anyone you know have had a REAL oil related failure? We are not talking about poor design (tick..bad valve guides, ect)..Where talking about a motor failure due to poor quality oil. If you change like you should, almost any oil would be fine..as long as it is wet clutch compatible, and has the proper rating. I have raced motorcycles for years, never a oil failure, did a few years in a 410 winged sprint car...never a oil failure. I drive 70,000 miles a year in my personal van, never a problem...I know.. apples and oranges. I guess what I am saying, most guys will sell/trade before there bike is even close to being worn out...so why all the fuss..It's over kill... okay...your turn... :D

 
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This is good stuff! :D Right or wrong, We all get an edumacation on the right earl! :p

I use the Mobil 1 15/50 full synth because "I" think it is better.

hey, Smitty, How much oil does the shaft drive take? wieght? I may bring some with me "up there" ;)

Adam

 
I tried the Rotella/STP combination at about 3500 miles in my 05, after about 200-300 miles I flushed it out.

My clutch did slip and the bike ran hotter and was more difficult to get into and out of gear.

I should have known, it done EXACTLY the same thing in my 1986 FJ1200.

That is my experience, and I would not recommend the combo to anyone else riding in Florida Temperatures.

Skippy

 
So here comes the noob to stir the pot. :D

So what to you guys think of page 6-13 in the owners manual....on the right side of the page on bold type it reads "Do not use oils with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality than specified"

Now someone correct me if I'm wrong, but if I understand my oil specifications correctly, Rotella-T exceeds the CD specification. And if oils are to exceed a specification, it first has to meet it. So basically I'm reading that we shouldn't use Rotella-T in our bikes. :unsure:

And actually I did have rotella-T it in the bike for the past 500 miles.

I did experience a little clutch slippage. :( Just drained it and put in Mobil 1 15w50.

 
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Add me to the "Added non-synth Rotella T and now my clutch slips" camp. Immediately after my first Rotella oil change, I went on a four-day weekend to northern California (Redding and points east and northwest of it). If clutch slipping feels like you're feathering the throttle at steady, moderate speeds or under non-heavy acceleration, then I had clutch slipping. (If that sensation isn't oil-induced clutch slipping, then I've got bigger problems!)

Previously I'd used Red-cap Mobil1, the one they don't make any more. Guess I'll pick up a few gallons of the new MX blend of Mobil1, flush this crap out, and see if the symptom persists.

 
I ran the Rotella-STP combo for several thousand miles. Never experienced anything remotely resembling clutch slippage . Only a softer "hit" on launch, not slippage but less abrupt engagement. Leebunyard (IIRC) has run the combo for ages on a multitude of bikes without any clutch issues. I just wasn't convinced the STP was the secret to quieter shifting. I wouldn't hesitate to use the Rotella Synthetic again myself, I just think the 15w50 Mobil1 is a better choice for what I need.

 
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