OhLuckyMan
Member
Hello fellow FJR owners,
I recently tagged this post to the end of another thread, and received no responses, so I am starting a new thread on the subject. I have received a lot of feed back from another source, but thought I'd post here as well. Knowledge is power.
I have just read many of the posts on this site, in my search for all the information I can get on how to do my first Throttle Body Synchronization. I am riding a 2016 Gen 4 FJR1300A.
I have a few questions, and they mostly are about the really nitty gritty little stuff that seems to be being left out. Here they are:
1. After raising the tank, to get at the throttle body nipples, I find that I cannot reach them all. Some are 5-6 inches below pipes and hoses on the surface of the motor, and very hard to reach. I'm pretty sure that I will have to remove the gas tank, then hook up the Carbtune Pro, and then hook the gas tank back up, to get at the 4 necessary hose hook up locations. Has that been your experience?
Brian at TwoWheelObsession does a very good video on how to do a TBS, but he is working on a Gen 3 2014 bike. I'm on Gen 4, and just don't see how I can do this without removing the tank to get at the necessary areas.
2. What tools are you using, that will assure that I can get the little ring clips and black caps off without losing them into the abyss of the motor. Any tool suggestions?
3. The TBS adjusting screws are just forward of the rear of the gas tank, and face toward the rear of the gas tank. There is probably no more than 4-6 inches of room between the rear end of the gas tank, and the two inside TBS adjustment screws. With the engine nice and hot, as required to do a TBS properly, and the gas tank overhanging the work area, I just can not see me getting in there with out removing the tank, and having it hooked up , but out of the way. Does that sound right?
I replaced the plugs while I was under the tank, yesterday. That was the very first time I have done a spark plug change. I found it a little tricky getting the ignition coils out of the wells they are plugged into, but followed TwoWheelObsessions instructions about twisting them around first, and then used a small pry bar (a cats paw) to gently break the seal. I am telling you this so you will understand that I am capable of working under there somewhat.
As an aside, I took photos of the TBS job as I was getting stuck, thinking they would illustrate the problem, but in fact they make it look easy , because I held the camera under the gas tank when taking the photos.
The bike is now running very well when hot, but sounds a bit weak on start up, like it might stall.
Thanks for reading, and any information would be most appreciated.
Ride Safe,
Cheers
I recently tagged this post to the end of another thread, and received no responses, so I am starting a new thread on the subject. I have received a lot of feed back from another source, but thought I'd post here as well. Knowledge is power.
I have just read many of the posts on this site, in my search for all the information I can get on how to do my first Throttle Body Synchronization. I am riding a 2016 Gen 4 FJR1300A.
I have a few questions, and they mostly are about the really nitty gritty little stuff that seems to be being left out. Here they are:
1. After raising the tank, to get at the throttle body nipples, I find that I cannot reach them all. Some are 5-6 inches below pipes and hoses on the surface of the motor, and very hard to reach. I'm pretty sure that I will have to remove the gas tank, then hook up the Carbtune Pro, and then hook the gas tank back up, to get at the 4 necessary hose hook up locations. Has that been your experience?
Brian at TwoWheelObsession does a very good video on how to do a TBS, but he is working on a Gen 3 2014 bike. I'm on Gen 4, and just don't see how I can do this without removing the tank to get at the necessary areas.
2. What tools are you using, that will assure that I can get the little ring clips and black caps off without losing them into the abyss of the motor. Any tool suggestions?
3. The TBS adjusting screws are just forward of the rear of the gas tank, and face toward the rear of the gas tank. There is probably no more than 4-6 inches of room between the rear end of the gas tank, and the two inside TBS adjustment screws. With the engine nice and hot, as required to do a TBS properly, and the gas tank overhanging the work area, I just can not see me getting in there with out removing the tank, and having it hooked up , but out of the way. Does that sound right?
I replaced the plugs while I was under the tank, yesterday. That was the very first time I have done a spark plug change. I found it a little tricky getting the ignition coils out of the wells they are plugged into, but followed TwoWheelObsessions instructions about twisting them around first, and then used a small pry bar (a cats paw) to gently break the seal. I am telling you this so you will understand that I am capable of working under there somewhat.
As an aside, I took photos of the TBS job as I was getting stuck, thinking they would illustrate the problem, but in fact they make it look easy , because I held the camera under the gas tank when taking the photos.
The bike is now running very well when hot, but sounds a bit weak on start up, like it might stall.
Thanks for reading, and any information would be most appreciated.
Ride Safe,
Cheers
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