Crash Cash
Well-known member
That's some excellent photography and a really good writeup. You need to get a commission from Morgan as you just sold another Carbtune.
Using a pencil is just cheaper than using a tube of powdered graphite lubricant.I didn't know you needed a pencil for a TB sync? What does poking everything with a pencil do?
They make some wicking loctite (220) that is a penetrating type for small preassembled fastners that may work.Yes, when I did the TB sync on my 06 AE. Things didn't change too much. I noticed that the air screws are very loose, and probably would change over time with engine vibration. Also, I feel that you must put the engine undar a load to get a proper sync. So next time I will do that and find a way to make the air screws not so easy to turn. Any ideas would be helpful.
I used needle nose pliers to remove the wire retainers, but your way is probably safer. I saw no need to replace the retainers after the job, however, so it got easier after the first time.Is there a special tool that is used to remove (without loosing) the wire retainer around the rubber caps?I modified a stiff wire to hook onto them, but there must be a better way?
I just uploaded my first YouTube Video ever. I have titled it, the "Worlds Most Boring FJR Video" ever. I filmed the whole 12 minute process of syncing my throttle bodies. Don't worry I edited the video down to just over 2 minutes. So if you ever wanted to see what the Carbtune looks like in action, and I use the word "action" quite loosely here, check out the video I uploaded.
Great info; thanks. I have not done this yet on mine, but need to learn how to; this makes it very understandable.I use the Morgan Carbtune II calibrate the throttle bodies. The service manual calls for the vacuum pressure to be between 220 and 280 mm Hg, the middle of that range would be 250 mm Hg. The solid lines on the manometer are spaced at 20 mm apart. Each of the dashed marks in between a solid line are 5 mm apart.
ThanksDo not worry what the absolute vacuum is. Just balance the 4 cylinders to each other (actually balance all the other cylinders to #3) with the idle speed at 1100 rpm. The vacuum in that condition will be what it will be, and what it actually is matters not at all.
For the stalling issue, set your warm idle to 1100 rpm. Not any lower.
This is exactly correct and there should be a way to correct the linking at part throttle also. more important than idle to me.Good stuff. Very clear pictures and video.
However, in my mind, synchronizing the throttle bodies at idle via the air screws is only part of the job. It will primarily effect the smoothness of the engine at idle, since as the throttles are opened the air screw's contribution becomes less and less significant.
The second part of synchronizing the throttles is making sure that as the throttles open they do it in unison. This is somewhat controversial as messing with the mechanical linkage can get things completely out of whack. However, this really isn't rocket science, just basic physics, so we should be able to figure out how to do it without messing things up to badly.
Here's a link to an old discussion about throttle body syncing and there is a link in the first post on that page to a Word document that I find to be very helpful.
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