throttle body sync

[vtcornercarver]

Just did plugs and my first throttle body sync at 8000 miles. I bought an economy motion pro mercury tube tool (by the way, they won't be making them anymore, California won't allow any mercury to be shipped anymore, so only those already in warehouses accross the country will be available, when gone, they will be really gone).

My throttle bodys were almost in perfect sync after 8000. I'd say all that work for nothing, but now I know how to do it, and it is all right there in front of you when you install plugs. Guess I have a good FJR, so far no valve guide noises (knock on wood), the old plugs were very clean and consistent, and the sync was near perfect. :yahoo: happy riding VT

 

[Thumper]

Just did plugs and my first throttle body sync at 8000 miles. I bought an economy motion pro mercury tube tool (by the way, they won't be making them anymore, California won't allow any mercury to be shipped anymore, so only those already in warehouses accross the country will be available, when gone, they will be really gone).My throttle bodys were almost in perfect sync after 8000. I'd say all that work for nothing, but now I know how to do it, and it is all right there in front of you when you install plugs. Guess I have a good FJR, so far no valve guide noises (knock on wood), the old plugs were very clean and consistent, and the sync was near perfect. :yahoo: happy riding VT

Sounds pretty consistent with my 06 after 9k miles.

I use the Carbtune Synchronizer. It's pretty expensive but I needed it for my Venture and Ural.

It's great when somebody else has done all the leg work figuring out how to wrench on a bike. I appreciate the information I get from this and other forums.

 

[Sherman]

I bough Carbtune with the sticks - no mercury.

Anyway they bounce up and down in the tubes while I was setting the TB.

Does this matter? I just made them all bounce within about the same range and called it good.

 

[S76]

Just checked mine today @ 5500 miles. They were so perfect I did not touch anything. Even slowly reving the engine they moved up and down perfect. Definately was not a waste of time though. At least now I know what I have, and not to rush back to do this again.

 

[C&C]

I bough Carbtune with the sticks - no mercury.Anyway they bounce up and down in the tubes while I was setting the TB.

Does this matter? I just made them all bounce within about the same range and called it good.

Yeah they bounce, but only minimally. Did you put the restrictors in the rubber vacuum tubing and plug the restricted end at the throttle bottle side; they are there to antenuate the vacuum and reduce the bounce.

 

[Rickster]

you can make your own if you're cheap.

I believe Motion Pro has a model that will be developed with non-toxic manometer fluid soon.

 

[Thumper]

I bough Carbtune with the sticks - no mercury.

Anyway they bounce up and down in the tubes while I was setting the TB.

Does this matter? I just made them all bounce within about the same range and called it good.

Yeah they bounce, but only minimally. Did you put the restrictors in the rubber vacuum tubing and plug the restricted end at the throttle bottle side; they are there to antenuate the vacuum and reduce the bounce.

+1 on what C&C said. Used the restrictors on the throttle side and it was easy to make adjustments.

However, I don't have an 06 Wrench Manual yet. Just wondering where should the vacumn measurement be on the scale? If it was way out, which throttle adjustment would you begin with to bring the others inline? Does it call to make the adjustment at a certain RPM or just idle?

Lot's of questions, but inquiring minds want to know. Don't worry, I will be getting the manual for future references.

 

[Sherman]

I bough Carbtune with the sticks - no mercury.

Anyway they bounce up and down in the tubes while I was setting the TB.

Does this matter? I just made them all bounce within about the same range and called it good.

Yeah they bounce, but only minimally. Did you put the restrictors in the rubber vacuum tubing and plug the restricted end at the throttle bottle side; they are there to antenuate the vacuum and reduce the bounce.

That splains it. Thanks! Missed it in the manual that came with the Carbtune.

Adapters

 

[HondaCBX6]

+1 on what C&C said. Used the restrictors on the throttle side and it was easy to make adjustments.
However, I don't have an 06 Wrench Manual yet. Just wondering where should the vacumn measurement be on the scale? If it was way out, which throttle adjustment would you begin with to bring the others inline? Does it call to make the adjustment at a certain RPM or just idle?

Lot's of questions, but inquiring minds want to know. Don't worry, I will be getting the manual for future references.

The actual number is not as important as having the highest attainable vacume that is still in the adjustable range between cilynders. I also do not think you want any of the airscrews totally bottomed out. The manual calls for using #3 as the base and adjust to that. But I could not get within range of adjustment using #3. I used #2 as the base and adjusted to it.

The throttle body sync is mostly for at or near idle. There is some thought that adjusting it around 4200 rpm may settle some of the vibrations. But my experimentation doing so did not make much of a difference. I think the 4200rpm vibe is associated more with the counter balancers and engine dynamics than the TB's.

John

 

[Thumper]

+1 on what C&C said. Used the restrictors on the throttle side and it was easy to make adjustments.

However, I don't have an 06 Wrench Manual yet. Just wondering where should the vacumn measurement be on the scale? If it was way out, which throttle adjustment would you begin with to bring the others inline? Does it call to make the adjustment at a certain RPM or just idle?

Lot's of questions, but inquiring minds want to know. Don't worry, I will be getting the manual for future references.

The actual number is not as important as having the highest attainable vacume that is still in the adjustable range between cilynders. I also do not think you want any of the airscrews totally bottomed out. The manual calls for using #3 as the base and adjust to that. But I could not get within range of adjustment using #3. I used #2 as the base and adjusted to it.

The throttle body sync is mostly for at or near idle. There is some thought that adjusting it around 4200 rpm may settle some of the vibrations. But my experimentation doing so did not make much of a difference. I think the 4200rpm vibe is associated more with the counter balancers and engine dynamics than the TB's.

John

Thanks John,

That helps alot until I can get the manual. When I did the sync, I adjusted to the highest cylinder, but made them equal at about 2500 rpm. At idle, I just blipped the throttle a few times and it looked pretty close. This is what I do with the Russian Boxer style as it makes a difference on that bike.

The biggest improvement I notice is from making the Barbarian Mod/+7 and one wrap on the Throttle Pull Spring. Bike is feeling sweeeeet now!

Gotta get that seat changed when I can afford it. I need at least a 14 hour seat.

 

[ionbeam]

The CarbTune manual also says that you can adjust the tube length to even out the bounce difference between the four rods.

As you balance the cylinders you should try to maintain the same idle speed. You may need to make several idle speed adjustments as you tweak the air bleeds. Failure to do this *may* result in a post sync problem of the idle adjuster screw running out of adjustment before achieving the correct idle speed. It will also help prevent adjustment screws from bottoming or topping out.

 

[3dogs]

The TechMate CarbMate is an electronic alternative to the Morgan Carbtune. It sells for about $140. The website also sells an adaptor for 4 cylinder engines but you don't really neet it. I have used both tools and each works well. The CarbMate is a bit more percise as you are watching flashing LEDs instead of bouncing metal rods.