Throttle Body Synch-time - Which way?

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FJR-RemingtonRider

Their Sunset / My Sunrise
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Okay, Need some Kharma Guidance here.

Want to follow the fjrtech for throttle bottle sync, but my search for the Motion pro economy sync tool revealed that the Motion Pro people, don't sell the product anymore, and sold the carbsync business side to Comptetion Motors out of Portland Oregon, (Tony) I think. He told me that the Economy motion pro is not sold or manufactured anymore; and the agreement with his purchase from Motion Pro, is that he not to develop one, but sell the deluxe model only for $116.00.

Does anyone know where the economy sync toll can be found? I did read a thread where the below photo was used and purchased in April 09',

The Carbtune sounds pretty good and can be ordered online. What are the thoughts on this?

Other option is that the dealership; charge $117.00 to do the sync and spark plugs., (plugs sold sep.) But, hey 8k miles later, I will need to do the TBS again.

https://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr59/co...kr/P4170052.jpg

https://www.carbtune.co.uk/Images/SSL11411SC.jpg

 
Another option is to build your own out of PVC pipe. Might not look as nice, but operates the same. You can find instructions around here somewhere. :)

 
Carbtune works great! I bought mine from anotehr forum member, for about half of the cost new, shipped to me.

There are some great posts on TBS. When I get home I can post the one I used.

 
I bought a carbtune and like it. It's a well-built tool. If you go that route, check both domestic sources as well as direct from the company in England. When I ordered, the fluctuations in currency more than made up for the shipping oversees.

You can probably find or make something cheaper with some effort. But doing it every 8k miles, it'll be about $8-10 per use even if I throw it away when I'm done with the FJR.

 
Had an old Motion Pro economy model for a few years; just replaced it this year with a Carbtune that I bought online from the U.K. Delivery was pretty quick. I like the Carbtune a lot. Even with a weak U.S. dollar, I think it's quality makes it a good value.

 
I bought the Carb Tune from England. Had it about a year, very easy to use, no fluids to loose/suck up. Seems to be very high quality...

Shipped to my house (SW Florida) was about $85.00 to my door. Within a week or so.....

Already paid for itself already syncing customers/friends bikes (as well as my FJR and FZ6). Having one allows you to not just get within factory spec's but fine tune (helped get rid of certain RPM vibrations on the FZ6 at a certain RPM) and know its done right....

Scott

 
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+1 on Carbtune. High quality tool with no liquid, nice storage pouch, and all the parts you need to get the job done. Ordered mine from England as well. Should outlast me easily.

 
Hey thanks guys...seems like the evening consensus is for the carbtune...

I've been reading about the homemade versions that cost little money and use oils in the tube as the measuring liquid.

I thought about it, but all instructions have for two tubes, not sure how to adapt to 4 cylinders....all this on a bmw forum.

I presume that you have to sync two at a time against one another?????

I believe I will settle on the carbtune from good ole' Eng-a-land.....................I guess.

 
...and buy it from Jeff at BikeEffects.com! He's a great and supports the forum and WFO's and NAFO's and GAFO's too! Just sayin'.. support those that support us!

 
...and buy it from Jeff at BikeEffects.com! He's a great and supports the forum and WFO's and NAFO's and GAFO's too! Just sayin'.. support those that support us!
Agree with ya on that Dcarver on supporting forum members/riders/bizmates....however Jeff was one of the first responders to my plight..I immediately checked out his link to the site. His product is a bit different and starts at $119.00 + $66.00 for an 4 cyl-adapter for $185.00 + shipping (-10% forum discount) uhh still $166.00 + shipping. So as much as I want to -going the other way will save me darn near a c-note.....just laying out my reasoning there.

But, did favoritize the site link so I can use it as a shopping zone.

Thanks a bunch!

 
My fellow Gentleman FJRBLuesman; you are THA-MAN!

Super Props to Broodwich, for a tremendous write up.

Don't know why this didn't pop up during my searches, Pics are worth a 1000 words.

 
One added point:

[blasphemy]

You could probably get away without doing a TBS ever. Assuming that all you are ever doing is the "authorized" version of TBS where one adjusts the air screws on the throttle bodies at idle, this maintenance item will have negligible effect on how your bike actually runs at anything above idle. The air screws adjust the air flow through a small circuit in the body that bypasses the throttle plate (butterfly valve). When the plate is fully closed at idle these bypass circuits represent a significant amount of the total intake air, so adjusting them will allow you to balance the vacuum in each intake. However, as you crack open the throttle that tiny air path is of increasing less significance.

Many folks report getting a smoother running engine after having done a TBS, but I think that is either a case of them having done other maintenance items coincidentally (plugs, air filter, etc) or just good ole' placebo effect.

Attempting to adjust out the "buzz" that most bikes have at ~ 4k rpm by adjusting the air screws doesn't make any sense.

[/blasphemy]

What does make sense for that is to adjust the throttle plates to open in perfect synchronization since they will have the greatest effect on the throttle balance during open throttle conditions. The problem people run into when attempting the unauthorized TBS procedure is they end up chasing the adjustment between the air screws and throttle plates as there is some small amount of inter-dependence.

A better way to do this would be to close down all 4 of the air screws first, then start the bike. You'll need to use a throttle lock to get the bike to idle as you closed off all the bypass air. This means that only air going through the throttle plates will get to the engine. That way you can balance the plates (at idle) where the vacuum will be the most effected by small differences in the angle of the plates. No need to try to make the adjustment at 4k rpm, though you can easily check it if you want. If they are balanced at idle they should be balanced as the throttle opens. When you are happy with the plates open all 4 air screws an equal amount (~ 2 turns) and then re-balance them at idle as normal.

 
A better way to do this would be to close down all 4 of the air screws first, then start the bike. You'll need to use a throttle lock to get the bike to idle as you closed off all the bypass air. This means that only air going through the throttle plates will get to the engine. That way you can balance the plates (at idle) where the vacuum will be the most effected by small differences in the angle of the plates. No need to try to make the adjustment at 4k rpm, though you can easily check it if you want. If they are balanced at idle they should be balanced as the throttle opens. When you are happy with the plates open all 4 air screws an equal amount (~ 2 turns) and then re-balance them at idle as normal.
Now why didn't I think of that? Excellent idea, Fred! I'm gonna try that on my next sync.

 
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