Throttle Control

[JoeG308]

Wow, what an fantastic ride! I'm enjoying my FJR as it is the best motorcycle I have ever been on.

My old ride was a Kawasaki Concours which I enjoyed but is light years away from the FJR. The only issue I'm having to really watch is my throttle control. The bike seems to either go and go fast or stop. Not as smooth in the corners as I gently wish to give some throttle.

Anyone else have this transition problem? Is it something to adjust to?

 

[SkooterG]

Lots o folks experiencing the same probem with the throttle as you. TONs of info around here on the subject, and how to spend some $$$$ and time to eliminate it.

There will be others here shortly, most likely with more detailed info than I, but my reader's digest summary is:

You want, 1) A G2 throttle cam, and 2) a Power Commander PCIII.

1 will help alleviate Yammie's stupid progressive rate throttle pulley, and 2 will eliminate the lean mapping of the fuel injection.

Though many will recommend it, I would NOT recommend the Barbarian jumper as it's an incomplete SWAG at fixing the lean condition.

Good luck!

 

[Silent]

Unwind the throttle spring also. Makes it alot easier to modulate the throttle. B)

 

[FJRay]

It is real tough to get a fuel injected engine to be as smooth on and off throttle as a good set of carbs but with a little help from your friends here you will be able to get it happy. All the time adding money helps. :lol:

 

[FuzzyRider]

Of course you can also practice being uber-smooth with the throttle. At times it seems like you're not actually twisting the throttle at all, just changing the amount of turning pressure. It won't eliminate the problem but it can help a little. And when you do opt for farklizing the problem away you will be that much happier!

 

[03HiYoSilver]

What Silent said:

Unwind the throttle spring also. Makes it alot easier to modulate the throttle. B)

Unlatching the middle throttle spring on the FJR makes a WORLD of difference...for the wrists and allows smoother modulation of the throttle without abrupt returns.

 

[PA1195]

Lots o folks experiencing the same probem with the throttle as you. TONs of info around here on the subject, and how to spend some $$$$ and time to eliminate it.
There will be others here shortly, most likely with more detailed info than I, but my reader's digest summary is:

You want, 1) A G2 throttle cam, and 2) a Power Commander PCIII.

1 will help alleviate Yammie's stupid progressive rate throttle pulley, and 2 will eliminate the lean mapping of the fuel injection.

Though many will recommend it, I would NOT recommend the Barbarian jumper as it's an incomplete SWAG at fixing the lean condition.

Good luck!

Be careful now...before I'd recommend someone install a PCIII out of the blue without a means to properly map and establish F/A ratios for THEIR bike and riding conditions, I'd also recommend the owner do some research into the PCIII and it's limitations...I've installed three PCIII's without a proper dyno session on different bikes in the last few years with several canned maps and have ended up with nothing but a relatively inflexible compromise...one even had problems from Dynojet's canned map that took weeks and many calls to Dynojet to resolve...all took fine tuning, and as a consequence the Internet is ripe with folks doing their own on-board analysis with WB O2 sensors, spciality PC controls (WBC), and logging computers to get it right on the fly.

Our GenII FJR's also apparently have the unique inability to properly compensate for air pressure changes or whatever causes surging, and a stock PCIII would do nothing but try to fuel the beast based upon whatever map PC or the owner determined to be best at the testing location's particular dyno, and under the exact conditions (mechanical/atmospheric) under which the the bike was tested...change those conditions later on and all bets are off without adjustment.

You're right about the SWAG regarding the BM O2 mod...hopefully someone will avail themselves to properly probe each header on a GenII and come up with better setting recommendations...it may be a $50 SWAG on my part but my bike definately runs better with uniform CO values...as do others sometimes with a $$$? PCIII and lots of time.

And anyone releasing the center return spring to relieve throttle tension had better be prepared to deal with always manually closing the throttle under decelleration...both the FJR's I did it to took seconds to return to idle coming off a speed run unless manually closed, probably due to engine vacuum and/or incoming air flow trying to hold the throttle plates open...I redid the both to original as a consequence...test before and after to be sure it's for you.

EDIT: I love my G2...setting the throttle cable tension so that it just returns to idle on its own with the engine off from WFO at all handlebar angles makes a real difference in control...Dealer's lawyers like it set too loose for our use...and releasing the center TB spring doesn't allow as much cable tension as w/o that mod...your choice from here on.

Gary in Fairbanks

 

[BobQ]

I had terible abruptness problems, I did the mods shown in my signature and now the bike is GREAT! The pcIII was a must in my case! I also modified my own map, search for "maps for 06". The proof is in the pudding and my map is GREAT! If you get a pcIII and want to try my map I will email it to you. Quita a few guys are running my map without any problems.

Just thought I would offer.

 

[Tropical FJR]

And anyone releasing the center return spring to relieve throttle tension had better be prepared to deal with always manually closing the throttle under decelleration...both the FJR's I did it to took seconds to return to idle coming off a speed run unless manually closed, probably due to engine vacuum and/or incoming air flow trying to hold the throttle plates open...I redid the both to original as a consequence...test before and after to be sure it's for you.

Utter bloody rubbish!

If your throttle doesn't close by itself, the adjuster on the cable is too tight.

 

[Capt. Bob]

Lots o folks experiencing the same probem with the throttle as you. TONs of info around here on the subject, and how to spend some $$$$ and time to eliminate it.
There will be others here shortly, most likely with more detailed info than I, but my reader's digest summary is:

You want, 1) A G2 throttle cam, and 2) a Power Commander PCIII.

1 will help alleviate Yammie's stupid progressive rate throttle pulley, and 2 will eliminate the lean mapping of the fuel injection.

Though many will recommend it, I would NOT recommend the Barbarian jumper as it's an incomplete SWAG at fixing the lean condition.

Good luck!

.

And anyone releasing the center return spring to relieve throttle tension had better be prepared to deal with always manually closing the throttle under decelleration...Gary in Fairbanks

Huh? I have always relied on my hand to close the throttle. Isn't that why there are two cables on the thing?

Capt. Bob

 

[Whichsideup]

Lots o folks experiencing the same probem with the throttle as you. TONs of info around here on the subject, and how to spend some $$$$ and time to eliminate it.
There will be others here shortly, most likely with more detailed info than I, but my reader's digest summary is:

You want, 1) A G2 throttle cam, and 2) a Power Commander PCIII.

1 will help alleviate Yammie's stupid progressive rate throttle pulley, and 2 will eliminate the lean mapping of the fuel injection.

Though many will recommend it, I would NOT recommend the Barbarian jumper as it's an incomplete SWAG at fixing the lean condition.

Good luck!

This would be precisely what I have just finished doing on mine. I installed the PC a few weeks ago, and the G2 a couple days ago. Noticeably better "control" now. I have done some remapping of the PC due to the "surging" issue that some of us have, but the control issue was improved even by the stock mapping on the PC.

-----

 

[SkooterG]

Be careful now...before I'd recommend someone install a PCIII out of the blue without a means to properly map and establish F/A ratios for THEIR bike and riding conditions, I'd also recommend the owner do some research into the PCIII and it's limitations...I've installed three PCIII's without a proper dyno session on different bikes in the last few years with several canned maps and have ended up with nothing but a relatively inflexible compromise...one even had problems from Dynojet's canned map that took weeks and many calls to Dynojet to resolve...all took fine tuning, and as a consequence the Internet is ripe with folks doing their own on-board analysis with WB O2 sensors, spciality PC controls (WBC), and logging computers to get it right on the fly.

You're an anomaly. For the VAST majority of us, the PCIII works absolutely fine with the standard maps provided my dynojet. Sure, having one dyno developed for one's individual bike is *ideal*, but not necessary by any means. Not that hard to have a map dyno developed either. Just takes a few $$$. Regardless, still not necessary.

Our GenII FJR's also apparently have the unique inability to properly compensate for air pressure changes or whatever causes surging, and a stock PCIII would do nothing but try to fuel the beast based upon whatever map PC or the owner determined to be best at the testing location's particular dyno, and under the exact conditions (mechanical/atmospheric) under which the the bike was tested...change those conditions later on and all bets are off without adjustment.

You're wrong here. First of all, the GenII FJRs are not 'unique' in the ability of sensors adjusting the fuel map. Gen I FJRs do it, as well as a plethora of other bikes out there. Probably just about EVERY fuel injected bike has sensors for adjusting the fuel map for ambient conditions. As far as the sensors and the PCIII, all sensors still do their job with the PCIII installed. While the PCIII alters the base fuel map, the sensors (such as temperature and pressure) still adjust the fuel map downstream from the PCIII - IOW, the sensors and ECU adjust the PCIII adjusted map. That is why the PCIII works absolutely fine for the VAST majority of us in all conditions, temperatures, and pressures. The problems that some of the 07 FJR folks are experiencing has nothing to do with the PCIII, and while a PCIII may mitigate some of the systems, it's just a band-aid temporary approach. The root cause of that problem needs to be dealt with before there can be any significant progresss.

 

[cougar8000]

If you have other things that you could be doing with your hard earn money, or not. Do what I do and learn to use clutch. You paid for it already might as well use it. There is such a thing as friction zone and can be used in any gear. It buzzered me at the beginning until I remember what I teach and started using friction zone more and more primarily second gear from close throttle. You will be amazed how smooth the bike will become. Please send 30% of what I just saved you

 

[kulwen]

Does anyone know if the G2 throttle tube mode will work with the 06AE's heated grips?

Thanks

 

[PA1195]

And anyone releasing the center return spring to relieve throttle tension had better be prepared to deal with always manually closing the throttle under decelleration...both the FJR's I did it to took seconds to return to idle coming off a speed run unless manually closed, probably due to engine vacuum and/or incoming air flow trying to hold the throttle plates open...I redid the both to original as a consequence...test before and after to be sure it's for you.

Utter bloody rubbish!

If your throttle doesn't close by itself, the adjuster on the cable is too tight.

Well, it's not rubbish, bloody or otherwise, but still I appreciate your comments...on both FJR's the cables were lubed and properly adjusted to allow a positive return at any steering angle w/o the engine running...the released spring removes the tension necessary for the throttle plates to close by themselves w/o a hand return...granted, we all normally use the hand to close the throttle...but in conditions at speed where the driver may be distracted and not immediately close the throttle the plates they will remain slightly open with the engine producing unwanted power for a short time...I thought as you and loosened the cables but nothing changed...both before with the stock tension setup, during the time I had it released, and after I rehooked it the performance convinced me that mod was not for me...use it with caution is all I say, but if you've already released the spring then there's no way to see if it works as I describe unless you rehook it...as always, it's our bike and our choice.

Gary in Fairbanks

 

[PA1195]

Be careful now...before I'd recommend someone install a PCIII out of the blue without a means to properly map and establish F/A ratios for THEIR bike and riding conditions, I'd also recommend the owner do some research into the PCIII and it's limitations...I've installed three PCIII's without a proper dyno session on different bikes in the last few years with several canned maps and have ended up with nothing but a relatively inflexible compromise...one even had problems from Dynojet's canned map that took weeks and many calls to Dynojet to resolve...all took fine tuning, and as a consequence the Internet is ripe with folks doing their own on-board analysis with WB O2 sensors, spciality PC controls (WBC), and logging computers to get it right on the fly.

You're an anomaly. For the VAST majority of us, the PCIII works absolutely fine with the standard maps provided my dynojet. Sure, having one dyno developed for one's individual bike is *ideal*, but not necessary by any means. Not that hard to have a map dyno developed either. Just takes a few $$$. Regardless, still not necessary.

Our GenII FJR's also apparently have the unique inability to properly compensate for air pressure changes or whatever causes surging, and a stock PCIII would do nothing but try to fuel the beast based upon whatever map PC or the owner determined to be best at the testing location's particular dyno, and under the exact conditions (mechanical/atmospheric) under which the the bike was tested...change those conditions later on and all bets are off without adjustment.

You're wrong here. First of all, the GenII FJRs are not 'unique' in the ability of sensors adjusting the fuel map. Gen I FJRs do it, as well as a plethora of other bikes out there. Probably just about EVERY fuel injected bike has sensors for adjusting the fuel map for ambient conditions. As far as the sensors and the PCIII, all sensors still do their job with the PCIII installed. While the PCIII alters the base fuel map, the sensors (such as temperature and pressure) still adjust the fuel map downstream from the PCIII - IOW, the sensors and ECU adjust the PCIII adjusted map. That is why the PCIII works absolutely fine for the VAST majority of us in all conditions, temperatures, and pressures. The problems that some of the 07 FJR folks are experiencing has nothing to do with the PCIII, and while a PCIII may mitigate some of the systems, it's just a band-aid temporary approach. The root cause of that problem needs to be dealt with before there can be any significant progresss.

Morning ScooterG and thanks for your comments...I have no intention to turn this thread into a debating effort...the stock bike runs fine in most circumstances...ask any experienced tuner or rider and they'll tell you, as they have me, that a generic PCIII map may improve some aspects of running if the bike is operated under the conditions as it was developed, especially lean condx, but a dyno test and run is required to optimize the potential...if better is good enough then map away...if best for your condx is desired then a Dyno run or WBC is the way to go IMHO.

On your second point you may have misread my comments...I said "unique inability to properly compensate" and I'll stand by what I said in light of the problems some have experienced in issues like surging with altitude changes, for example...the first Gen FJR's apparently had the ability to compensate better, as do most other brands of FI motorcycles, while the second Gen have problems doing that...adding fuel adjustment via PCIII's to the GenII's may mask some of the lean condx when they become an issue, but won't fix the surging which is likely inherant in the ECU's programing, which was my intended point...as you say the root cause needs to be dealt with...in addition, marked changes in temperature and air pressure need to be factored into the engine's operation, and without that, adding a PCIII map only adjusted to whatever conditions were present at the time it was developed will do nothing the help running when these conditions are no longer met, i.e. later changes in intake/exhaust or atmospheric conditions...the standard PCIII is not an adaptive device, and unless the bike's ECU properly makes adaptive changes within it's ability to do so, then good performance is not guaranteed with a PCIII installation under all conditions...Don't feel threatened by my comments, if you like your PCIII then by all means use it...but a new owner asking for options and advice, which is what this thread is all about, should read up a bit before deciding to follow the farkle herd and automatically install one expecting a set-and-forget miracle with no further fine tuning required.

And then there's the potential issue of coverage on modified FJR's still under warranty...but that's for another thread.

Gary in Fairbanks

 

[Bike Effects]

G2 Throttle Tube at Bike Effects

Power Commander at Bike Effects

Please see link below that explains how to get a discount on products at Bike Effects.

 

[RayW]

If you have other things that you could be doing with your hard earn money, or not. Do what I do and learn to use clutch. You paid for it already might as well use it. There is such a thing as friction zone and can be used in any gear. It buzzered me at the beginning until I remember what I teach and started using friction zone more and more primarily second gear from close throttle. You will be amazed how smooth the bike will become. Please send 30% of what I just saved you

I'll agree with this one. There's a whole bunch of other stuff I could spend that kind of cash on (if I had it) so I've had to learn to compensate (for lack of a better word) by learning how this bike *wants* to be ridden. I've really learned a lot in the past year about fine throttle control and proper clutch technique. Still got a ways to go but that's where the fun is. Just be carefull going over speed bumps. It's easy to give the bike a good shot of throttle when you really don't want to. Had to look around and make sure no one saw me almost launch over the one at work.

Now what is that second gear technique?? Sounds like one more to start practicing!

Ray

 

[JoeG308]

Thanks for all the replies. This morning I rode around seventy miles and it seems much smoother. As the bike only has about 350 miles, I'm inclined to give it some more time while I adjust to the bike, before I make any changes. It has been a big transition to move from carbs to fuel injection. However, I am really enjoying the FJR!