Throttle Control

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I had an 01 Concours before my 05 FJR. Had the same problem; jerky on the throttle when I first got the FJR. I like a tight throttle with almost no play, took me about 1000 miles to get used to the throttle on the FJR. Now I don't even think about it.

My point is maybe you want to wait a while before your spend $$$ on something you might get used to over a few miles.

You may want to do the spring mod though, IMO the throttle spring on the Gen II is way too stiff. I guess this was a response from Yamaha for the complaints of jerky throttles on the Gen I.

 
While I'm yet to do the throttle spring release to my own bike ( I will do so very soon ) , the three FJR riders I ride with most often have all done this mod. Every one of them experiences a quick throttle return action.....under all throttle applications. This is one mod I would recommend anyone go ahead and do. I have very strong wrists and put up with the stiff spring too long.....it even has me crying " uncle ".

 
Now what is that second gear technique?? Sounds like one more to start practicing!
Ray
It is actually really simple. As you down shift from third do not let a clutch out totally and pre-load the throttle. Just like in the first gear use friction zone slowly easing out the clutch. Once you master it , it is becomes really smooth.

 
Now what is that second gear technique?? Sounds like one more to start practicing!
Ray
It is actually really simple. As you down shift from third do not let a clutch out totally and pre-load the throttle. Just like in the first gear use friction zone slowly easing out the clutch. Once you master it , it is becomes really smooth.
thanks for the tip

karen

 
In addition to relaxing the middle spring (there're THREE) one turn, adjust the throttle play down to the minumum spec, which is 3mm; it makes a BIG difference. And for an ever bigger difference, install a 'throttle rocker', or similar. I have the original one-piece all plastic, and had it even in my BMW with cruise control. With that thing, you can completely loosen your grip, which lets your hand relax. It's especially nice in the twisties.

From there, it's all a matter of practice.

The clutch tip is great too, but can't seem to get used to the darn clutch engaging so close to the grip. Glad I don't have a problem with throttle control after owning a twitchy BMW, which happens to also have a very stiff throttle.

Have a good one folks.

JC

 
I may have finally reached throttle "Nervana" (even if I can't spell it!) on my 07. Or at least it's now as smooth, or smoother than my 05 ever was.

Here's the list...

1. Release third/middle throttle spring.

2. Remove ALL cable slack. I aim for 1mm of slack.

3. Set the idle to 1,100 RPM. Many brand new bikes are not even close.

4. PC-III with stock 07 map. Works pretty darn good without any mods. My map is slightly modified for my sea level conditions.

5. Replace 07 clutch slave cylinder with 05 clutch slave cylinder. Yamaha calls is "Push Lever Comp", go figure!

6. TBS, then TBS again, then do it one more time! I spend 20-30 minutes with the CarbMate doing the best possible throttle body sync possible.

7. Oversize grips or Grip Puppies. Simple geometry, larger diameter gives your brain more "travel" per rotational degree of throttle.

8. G2 throttle tube. Grease it well and often with a very light grease or evaporative lubricant like Tri-Flow.

There are of course, several things which fall into the category of "Technique", not "Modifications", like using the clutch as mentioned earlier. I'll save that list for another thread.

 
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Skip it, I worked it out. After a few long rides I seem to have the hang of the throttle and clutch.

Excellent ride today with the little woman. She was also impressed with my Yamaha!

:yahoo: :yahoo:

Joe

 
I may have finally reached throttle "Nervana" (even if I can't spell it!) on my 07. Or at least it's now as smooth, or smoother than my 05 ever was.
Here's the list...

1. Release third/middle throttle spring.

2. Remove ALL cable slack. I aim for 1mm of slack.

3. Set the idle to 1,100 RPM. Many brand new bikes are not even close.

4. PC-III with stock 07 map. Works pretty darn good without any mods. My map is slightly modified for my sea level conditions.

5. Replace 07 clutch slave cylinder with 05 clutch slave cylinder. Yamaha calls is "Push Lever Comp", go figure!

6. TBS, then TBS again, then do it one more time! I spend 20-30 minutes with the CarbMate doing the best possible throttle body sync possible.

7. Oversize grips or Grip Puppies. Simple geometry, larger diameter gives your brain more "travel" per rotational degree of throttle.

8. G2 throttle tube. Grease it well and often with a very light grease or evaporative lubricant like Tri-Flow.

There are of course, several things which fall into the category of "Technique", not "Modifications", like using the clutch as mentioned earlier. I'll save that list for another thread.

Jeff,

What's that about the slave cylinder? Can you elaborate?

Thanks,

Maywanna

 
4. PC-III with stock 07 map. Works pretty darn good without any mods. My map is slightly modified for my sea level conditions.
6. TBS, then TBS again, then do it one more time! I spend 20-30 minutes with the CarbMate doing the best possible throttle body sync possible.
Why does the PCIII w/ stock map help? Is it just because the o2 sensor is unplugged and the map shoots a richer fuel mixure (assuming the o2 sensor helps lean out the fuel for emissions purposes)? Never understood why a power commander added to a bike without any mods changes/improves anything.

Did you need the "special" L-shaped screw driver to accomplish the TBS? I thought I had seen a post where it was not needed. I haven't gotten into the bike yet either to find out for myself.

I see your from NC... is the Dragon where you snapped your profile picture? That is a sick lean angle for a solo, not to mention with a passenger!! Did they have to blouse their pant legs to keep the **** from flying out!!? I am heading out there for a week in August for uhh... work. :yahoo: If not, oh well, you know what the Dragon is anyway.

 
The big issue here is there are so many ways you can go in order to make the bike right for you. Put some miles on it before you spend money on something you may overcome later by getting used to the way it handles and it's throttle response. Many post their ideas and ways to remedy problems they have had with their own motorcycles, and have studied just about anything that has been written in order to make them better. I would also venture to say most have spent countless hours looking for answers dealing not only with their own bikes but for others as well.

This forum has about every piece of information one could ever want if they needed it. My advise would be to get used to your bike and then read what changes have been done by others to make their problems better. It's real easy to go out and spend money on things you really won't need and don't address the problem you are having. You as the rider must find out what you don't like, and then fix it so you are happy. No two riders are alike, what works for someone else might not be right for you.

Take your time and then make an informed decision, the money you save may be your own.

Ride Safe, C1

 
Does anyone know if the G2 throttle tube mode will work with the 06AE's heated grips?
Thanks
Yes -- I have the G2 on an 06AE -- works fine. I also have Throttlemeisters (G2, Heated Grips, AND Throttlemeisters) no problems. Search for details on the wirining orientation before removing the throttle assembly -- it will save you a world of time and grief!

 
Does anyone know if the G2 throttle tube mode will work with the 06AE's heated grips?
Thanks
Yes -- I have the G2 on an 06AE -- works fine. I also have Throttlemeisters (G2, Heated Grips, AND Throttlemeisters) no problems. Search for details on the wirining orientation before removing the throttle assembly -- it will save you a world of time and grief!
Thank you, I guess it is time to order it.

Well, maybe after WFO since I just dropped alot of $$$$ on Skyway's new site. I ordered the Soltek lights and two hydration kits.

 
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And anyone releasing the center return spring to relieve throttle tension had better be prepared to deal with always manually closing the throttle under decelleration...both the FJR's I did it to took seconds to return to idle coming off a speed run unless manually closed, probably due to engine vacuum and/or incoming air flow trying to hold the throttle plates open...I redid the both to original as a consequence...test before and after to be sure it's for you.

Utter bloody rubbish!

If your throttle doesn't close by itself, the adjuster on the cable is too tight.
Well, it's not rubbish, bloody or otherwise, but still I appreciate your comments...on both FJR's the cables were lubed and properly adjusted to allow a positive return at any steering angle w/o the engine running...the released spring removes the tension necessary for the throttle plates to close by themselves w/o a hand return...granted, we all normally use the hand to close the throttle...but in conditions at speed where the driver may be distracted and not immediately close the throttle the plates they will remain slightly open with the engine producing unwanted power for a short time...I thought as you and loosened the cables but nothing changed...both before with the stock tension setup, during the time I had it released, and after I rehooked it the performance convinced me that mod was not for me...use it with caution is all I say, but if you've already released the spring then there's no way to see if it works as I describe unless you rehook it...as always, it's our bike and our choice.

Gary in Fairbanks

I'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one that has experienced the throttle not closing fully after releasing the middle spring. After returning from a 2200 mile trip a few weeks ago, I decided to unwind the center spring one round and lighten the throttle up to ease wrist fatigue. I also removed the slack in the cable while I was under the tank. After doing this I noticed that the throttle seemed to close slowly when taking my hand off the grip. Thinking that I must have removed too much slack from the cable, I put it back the way it was, but it made no difference. I think I am going to leave the spring unwound and get used to having to manually close the throttle. It doesnt seem to be an issue after opening the throttle wider; I think it "snaps" back to idle if returning from something more that say, 1/4 throttle, but releasing it from under 1/4 throttle seems to make it close to idle slowly. I know the spring unwind procedure is quite popular, but I don't think I have ever heard of anyone talk about this before. Is anyone else experiencing this?

Russ

 
If the throttle is having problems closing, look for other root causes.

Example #1: My FJR#1. 04 FJR. Did NOT do the throttle spring unwind. Yet due to my VistaCruise install, where I have the grip jammed against the VC, the throttle tube movenent has more friction, negating the spring tension. Not running, throttle will not close on it's own. Running (with engine vibes) throttle will barely close on it's own. And I *repeat*, this is in stock condition, all springs fully attached.

Example #2: My FJ#2. 04 FJR w/ABS. Bought this FJR used, and previous owner did the throttle spring unwind. I could definitely feel the difference, and frankly, I preferred the frictioned throttle of FJR#1. Anywho, with the spring unwound, the throttle would still return on it's own with no problem, so I don't think the spring is the root cause of the problem. Eventually, I installed the VC on this FJR as I ***FREAKING HATED*** the Throttlemeister it came with (Whew! I feel much better now). Once again, the grip was jammed up against the VC, so now, with the spring unwind mod, that throttle would not close on it's own AT ALL. Friend rode it once, and it freaked his pansy ass out! So just today, in preparation for the trip to WFO, I backed off the grip some, and now the throttle returns on it's own, even with the VC installled, and the spring mod performed. I didn't mind the fact that it wouldn't return on it's own, except I also have the Audiovox CC installed, and you don't want any binding whatsoever when running that. Hence today's activities to get rid of any throttle tube binding.

 

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