Throttle spring

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thanks for the info. I need to do this tomorrow, along with getting rid of some cable free play and putting on some Grip Puppies. I couldn't figure out if you need to go through the side fairing or through the top.

I too am having a hard time getting seamless shifts. Maybe this will help, along with some more seat time.

 
Evening folks.

Did the throttle spring mod today and it works fine. Definitely a lighter action on the throttle though there is one down side.... The return isn't as strong so my grips /vist cruise combination prevented a normal snap return to a closed position. I ended up having to work the throttle barrel with a file to get the required slack for a snap return on the throttle action.

The throttle return mod plus tightening up the throttle cable slack has made the Feejr a lot smoother to shift and ride.

I'm pleased with the end result.

Nflyer

 
Evening folks.


The throttle return mod plus tightening up the throttle cable slack has made the Feejr a lot smoother to shift and ride.

I'm pleased with the end result.

Nflyer
Ok, I have seen plenty of instructions on how to loosen the throttle return but how do you take the slack out of the throttle? I want to do both mods.

Thanks,Larry

 
Did the following work today.

Minimized throttle cable free play, took one turn out of the #3 throttle spring and installed grip puppies. Excellent! Much more managable, easier to control, smoother take off and gear change.

I would recomend this to everyone.

 
Evening folks.

The throttle return mod plus tightening up the throttle cable slack has made the Feejr a lot smoother to shift and ride.

I'm pleased with the end result.

Nflyer
Ok, I have seen plenty of instructions on how to loosen the throttle return but how do you take the slack out of the throttle? I want to do both mods.

Thanks,Larry
Ok, just one more time. There are two places you can adjust the pull cable (don't worry 'bout the push, or return cable unless it causes some kinda problem)--at the throttle bodies, or at the grip. Minor adjustments can be made at the grip. Follow the cables from the grip down, about 6" down the pull cable, you'll see a thicker rubber section about 3" long. Peel this cover down, and you'll find a common adjuster like the ones used for years on bikes. Simply loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster to take up slack. Check idle speed and that turning the bars has no effect on engine speed, re-tighten the locknut and you are set. And put a Service Manual down as Farkle #1, itwill be a most handy reference.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
OK, now I've done it :blink: Went to take one loop out of the throttle spring and it un-wound just fine, but now it is too loose. I can only guess the previous owner had already done this mod. I can see that when the throttle is closed there is no tension on the spring as it comes off the retaining tab slightly. How do I put a wrap back into this spring? HELP

Bill

 
OK, now I've done it :blink: Went to take one loop out of the throttle spring and it un-wound just fine, but now it is too loose. I can only guess the previous owner had already done this mod. I can see that when the throttle is closed there is no tension on the spring as it comes off the retaining tab slightly. How do I put a wrap back into this spring? HELP
Bill
They are all like that (the spring is not even contacting the tab). But don't forget that you have two more springs that still have some tension on them. I just did this mod myself today. I have not ridden it yet, but I have messed with the throttle quite a bit. It returns just fine.

Do you think yours is not returning, or are you just concerned because that one spring is no longer in contact at idle?

 
Well, when I work the throttle it stays open and does not return closed by its self without some help. When I manually close the throttle the spring moves off the retaining tap.

Bill

 
Well, when I work the throttle it stays open and does not return closed by its self without some help. When I manually close the throttle the spring moves off the retaining tap.
Bill
Do you have some sort of throttle lock on it? Also, check to be sure your grip isn't rubbing the housing next to it. Otherwise, you're screwed :lol:

 
Get back to the throttle springs and take a wire with a noose and push it below around the throttle axel. Attach the noose to the loose spring and pull the spring around and attach again. Thats the way I reset the middle spring after I accidently loosend the center spring all the way.

Cheers,

-Flere.

 
:D :D :D :D :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo:

20 min. from start to finish on my '06. Center spring jumped around one rotation and re-attached just as advertised. Throttle is so much better now!!!! DO THIS MOD!!!!

 
Get back to the throttle springs and take a wire with a noose and push it below around the throttle axel. Attach the noose to the loose spring and pull the spring around and attach again. Thats the way I reset the middle spring after I accidently loosend the center spring all the way.Cheers,

-Flere.
Thanks man, thats exactly what I did and was able to get another wrap on the spring. I hate it when shit like that happens because I spent an extra hour fucking around with it when I could have moved on to installing my other items on the farkle list.

Bill

 
Is there a special trick to getting the spring to just loosen one turn and reattach. I don't want to end up w/ one thats too loose.

 
Is there a special trick to getting the spring to just loosen one turn and reattach. I don't want to end up w/ one thats too loose.
Based upon my experience and the others posted here, I don't think you can go wrong. When it "jumps" off the tab, it almost has to reattach itself. You'll see when you mess with it. Also, because the other two springs are doing most of the work after this mod, I don't think you have to worry about that spring being attached at all.

 
+1 to what Jim said... I would bet a majority of the people who release the spring have it catch after one rotation whether they want it to or not... and even if it doesn't, the other 2 springs are going to be doing most of the work from that point forward.

 
Can anyone tell me how to lift the tank??i dont have service manual to show me

how.Want to do this mod.

thanks all :)

 
Get a manual, squid. I know it's easier to ask rad how to do things but, for christ's sake....get a manual. Me? I just use the force if I need to work on anything.

 
Can anyone tell me how to lift the tank??i dont have service manual to show mehow.Want to do this mod.

thanks all :)
Yeah, just unscrew a bunch of screws and pull it off!!!

Okay, let me see if I can walk through this.

>Unscrew the two screws (allen head) at the front of the gas tank down below the handlebars.

>With the seat off, you can see a long bolt at the back of the tank. The tank will hinge up on that, but to do the spring mod, you will have to take that off.

>Take the silver trim off the tank. I'm not sure if it's required or not, but you run a big risk of damaging it if you don't take it off. Be VERY careful. You can see two allen head screws - one on each side, and two black "push fasteners" with what looks like phillips screws in them. Just turn those screws about 1/4 turn till the head pops out (the screw, you idiot - get your mind out of the gutter). Then you just pull those fasteners out. Here is where it gets tricky. At the front of the gas tank, the silver trim just "pops" out. But do this very carefully just at the very front . When you have the fasteners out, and the front "popped" out, you then have to carefully pull that trim piece straight back towards the back of the bike to get it off.

Put a big towel just behind the tank, and move the tank back about six inches on top of the towel. Now you need to lift the front of the tank up high enough to disconnect the two wiring harnesses that go into the bottom of the tank. At this point, I did not have to disconnect the fuel lines. I just moved the tank back far enough to get to the throttle bodies. Just be careful with the tank that you don't scratch anything, and watch you don't damage the fuel lines.

From there I just lifted the back half of the heat shield enough to work under it - I did not remove it. This worked fine for me, but be careful with it.

Hope this covered everything. I'm sure if I missed anything someone else will jump in.

 
Can anyone tell me how to lift the tank??i dont have service manual to show me

how.Want to do this mod.

thanks all :)
Yeah, just unscrew a bunch of screws and pull it off!!!

Okay, let me see if I can walk through this.

>Unscrew the two screws (allen head) at the front of the gas tank down below the handlebars.

>With the seat off, you can see a long bolt at the back of the tank. The tank will hinge up on that, but to do the spring mod, you will have to take that off.

>Take the silver trim off the tank. I'm not sure if it's required or not, but you run a big risk of damaging it if you don't take it off. Be VERY careful. You can see two allen head screws - one on each side, and two black "push fasteners" with what looks like phillips screws in them. Just turn those screws about 1/4 turn till the head pops out (the screw, you idiot - get your mind out of the gutter). Then you just pull those fasteners out. Here is where it gets tricky. At the front of the gas tank, the silver trim just "pops" out. But do this very carefully just at the very front . When you have the fasteners out, and the front "popped" out, you then have to carefully pull that trim piece straight back towards the back of the bike to get it off.

Put a big towel just behind the tank, and move the tank back about six inches on top of the towel. Now you need to lift the front of the tank up high enough to disconnect the two wiring harnesses that go into the bottom of the tank. At this point, I did not have to disconnect the fuel lines. I just moved the tank back far enough to get to the throttle bodies. Just be careful with the tank that you don't scratch anything, and watch you don't damage the fuel lines.

From there I just lifted the back half of the heat shield enough to work under it - I did not remove it. This worked fine for me, but be careful with it.

Hope this covered everything. I'm sure if I missed anything someone else will jump in.
I would add that I first attempted to just lift the heat shield as described above but ended up pulling the fuel lines, removing the tank completely, removing the T-bar, and taking the heat shield all the way off. I felt I was bending it too much by just lifting the back. This took an extra 5 min. but it made it much easier to see the spring.

I too would be amazed if the spring did anything other than jump right back on the hook after unwinding one turn. It happens FAST and you'll think nothing happened until you twist the grip. :yahoo:

 
Top