Throttle Synch?

[Spike]

Has anyone, who had never done a throttle body synch previously, used Warchilds posted directions and was satisfied with how it went. I would like to do most f not all the services myself on the bike, and am handier than most people -- but not too far from Tim Taylor either ;-) I just need very specific instructions. I also have the shop manual, and it doesn't look hard at all, but I was wondering if anyone else had tried it. Again, I am not looking for people who have done it before on other vehicles and thus had to adapt what they knew to the FJR, but rather looking for people for which this was a first form the doing such a job.

Usually when I am trying a job for the first time, I like to have someone with me who has done it before, to catch my stupid mistakes.

And is everyone out ther in agreement with Warchild that the best tool for the job is the Motion Pro economy carb sych tool? Or is there some personal preference. I like motion Pro stuff, but was also looking at a digital model if it makes it easier to do and do accurate.

I was looking at https://www.aerostich.com/product.php?produ...9909048599562c8

or

https://www.aerostich.com/product.php?produ...61241d94c062420

Thanks,

Spike

 

[radman]

The digital stuff is ok I guess, I got the Morgan Carbtune, less money and relatively bulletproof--

https://www.carbtune.com/

Just do what WC says to do.

 

[ionbeam]

To which I will add: Note the RPMs just before starting the TB synch. If the RPMs change while adjusting the air bleed screws, stop and readjust the RPMs back to the starting point level. If you don't do this you are likely to find that the 'RPM adjustment screw' will not let you adjust all the way down to 1 to 1.1k RPMs when you are done.

Alan

 

[Toecutter]

The two small black side covers do not need to bee removed

Subliminal shot noted. Not to worry, Epi-pen in hand and ready to self-inject.

 

[Just Plain Dave]

I followed WC's instructions exactly as he wrote them. It was simple and quick. It was my first time and it took about 30 minutes from start to finish. To raise the tank you just remove the seat, the panels next to the tank, (one allen screw, one thingy you punch in slightly to remove the retainer, then pull the panel straight out.) remove the 2 screws in front of the tank and loosen the rear screw. Watch the screw retainer on the left when lifting the tank, it may pop out, mine did. took a minute to figure out how to reinstall. Then prop the tank up 9-10 inches. Everything you need to get to is visible. Getting the rubber caps off is fairly easy if you have some hemostats to remove the springs. To put them back on just install the springs where they belong on the caps and push them back on. The el cheapo Motion Pro Carb Tuner worked fine for me.

 

[Yambone]

Warchild's How-To is excellent and I say go for it. The thought of raising the tank is a tad bit intimidating, but it is surprisingly easy.

Having said that, I had the luxury of watching it done by The Master himself at a TechWest day at Sunnyside Motorcycle company. This alleviated all fear and started me down the road to self-maintenance on the FJR. Very satisfying.

In case you would like to actually see it done first...Every once in a while someone sets up a TBS 'party' and a few folks get together and get er done enmasse. Bet if you propose such an event in the Regional Ride information section below and mention your city, you would be in business. Offer to bribe someone a 6-pack to demo the procedure to guarantee success. :cownoy:

Also, +2 on recommending the Morgan Carbtune II.

 

[SkooterG]

TBS on my fjr was the first time I had ever done a sync. Here's another vote for the Morgan Carbtune.

Its really not that hard thanks to WC's how-to. I didn't even do any of the stuff the Radman describes, and haven't had any issues.

I used fishing line to loop through cap retaining springs instead of wire and it worked well. I recommend doing this, as otherwise, you will most likely lose one of those suckers. Rather than using needle nose pliers to pull the rubber cap off, I would use a flat blade screwdriver to pull it off from the bottom. That way you won't put a lot of stress on the rubber cap. Never hurts to to order a few extra caps and retaining springs either, the next time you make a parts order. Cheap insurance.

To keep the tank propped up, I also used Warchild's rope method. I don't recommend using a block of wood as you will be working in the area and could knock it out and receive a nasty surprise.

Really though, this is a straightforward and simple operation. Go for it! First time I did it probably took me an hour, but I go really slow the first time I do something.

 

[Kevin]

The two small black side covers do not need to bee removed

How do you lift the gas tank if you don't?

I followed the instructions at HMarc's site -- is that something different? It's at https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/efi-sync.html I also built the gas tank stand at https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/frontstand.html - no brainer. I used lawn trimming string as safety-wire for the caps. Fishing line sounds like a good idea too.

I'm no wrench. Almost always I need to see how it's done before trying it myself. In this case I gave it a shot and was easily done. The instructions and pics are pretty clear. I used the cheapo Motion Pro. I wish a couple of the lines were about 6" longer but it worked out OK. The Motion Pro instructions have you placing some extra plugs in the tubes -- you don't need that for the FJR. Check the plugs while you're in there.

Enjoy.

 

[Constant Mesh]

When I raise the tank I don't remove the black plastic side panels. It's not necessary and you risk damaging the panels if you do remove them.

You can just remove the push-pin plastic rivet at the rear of each panel. This releases the panels to pivot up with the tank as you raise the front of the tank.

Using this procedure eliminates the need to remove the hex cap-screw at the front of each panel, and more importantly, it eliminates the need to pull the fragile plastic nib on the back of each panel from the tight-fitting rubber grommet on the tank.

With repeated removal/installation of the panel nibs into the rubber grommets I can foresee a nib breakage or cracking of the panel.

You can avoid this 'cussing moment' by not removing the panels.

 

[Bounce]

The "nibs" are no problem. As with the Goldwing (which also uses something similar) spritz a shot of silicon spray lube on the rubber grommets and rub it in. This lets the nibs move in and out of place without breaking.

I did my first tbs using the info at fjr.info and it went very easily. Some time after that, the page went up at FJRTech to enhance those instuctions. I'd never done a tbs on any bike before (or carb synch). With a little patience, it went very well and things were straight forward. Anything question you might have about the adjustment screw bottoming out (or other things) are all addressed with just a little common sense.

 

[ionbeam]

spritz a shot of silicon spray lube on the rubber ... and rub it in. This lets the nibs move in and out ... without breaking

What more can anyone say :haha:

Alan

 

[Bluestreek]

Man, I hate it when the nibs break off. :bleh: :bleh: