time for new battery?

[Nanahanman]

This battery has been in the bike for at least 5 years and I suspect it time to replace it.

When the bike is hot, like riding in traffic on a warm day, and I shut it off, if I try to re-start withing a few minutes, the battery can barely turn the engine over.

Otherwise, when cold or at normal temps, the battery turns over the engine just fine.

Voltage looks good and charging system is working.

Thoughts?

 

[Joel S.]

sounds bad, have it tested, if bad replace. easy as that.

no need to think anything else till you have the battery tested.

 

[RossKean]

This battery has been in the bike for at least 5 years and I suspect it time to replace it.When the bike is hot, like riding in traffic on a warm day, and I shut it off, if I try to re-start withing a few minutes, the battery can barely turn the engine over.

Otherwise, when cold or at normal temps, the battery turns over the engine just fine.

Voltage looks good and charging system is working.

Thoughts?

The symptoms you report may be the starter, not the battery. By all means, get the battery load tested. ALSO, check for excessively high current draw when starting hot using a clamp-on DC ammeter. (This will tell you if the starter is starting to give up.) Can't remember the exact range but I believe anything much over 80 amperes could be a problem.

Don't assume a bad battery just because of age - I swapped out my OEM battery this year after 10 years and 170,000 miles - it was still working just fine but reserve capacity was lower than I liked.

 

[escapefjrtist]

This ^^^^ and if it is the starter, remember that FJRay has an exchange program set up for rebuilt starters. Don't know how much hassle it would be with the border, shipping, etc..

Good luck!

--G

 

[Constant Mesh]

Same thing happened on mine before I got new batteries. New battery always fixes it.

I would check and tighten the battery terminal connections first. If they get slightly loose you can experience these symptoms.

The hot start is the most difficult for the system.

 

[Nanahanman]

Battery terminals are tight.

I will install a new battery and report back on results.

May take a week or so to get away from work to road test.

 

[Bill Lumberg]

The original one in my 14 didn't last two years. Started stumbling on start. New battery fixed it.

 

[Constant Mesh]

I'm using this inexpensive battery. I recommend it.

https://www.staabbattery.com/product/mcc-mf/14B-BS.html

You have to install the included electrolyte. Very easy to do.

 

[JREW]

The symptoms you are describing are what you would expect for a battery that is getting weak do to age.

 

[RossKean]

The symptoms you are describing are what you would expect for a battery that is getting weak do to age.

And the same symptoms as a good battery under too much load due to a faulty starter. While the battery is the most likely culprit, a simple load test and measurement of the starting current would provide a definitive answer.

A bad starter solenoid is still another (lesser) possibility - do the clock and trip odometer reset when it is trying to start and did you measure the voltage drop under the hot-start conditions? If the solenoid contacts are bad, the starter won't get enough juice to turn the engine over properly but the voltage at the battery should remain high - not so if the battery or starter is bad.

No substitute for KNOWING the answer before you start buying parts.

 

[dcarver]

I've had each of the above problems.. Bad relay caused excessive current draw. Bad starter caused relay failure. Cheap battery not worth a crap from day one.

No substitute for KNOWING the answer before you start buying parts.

Amen, brother.

 

[FTL900]

I either go with an AGM gel battery shipped out of California from ebay, around $35-$40, or I go big. I've put a lipo in one bike and while it was expensive, I was able to get double the amperage in the same size case with a fraction of the weight, and what's not to like about that?? Oh yeah, the price.

With the FJR battery being stored where it is (forward and up high), I may go with a lipo there when I need a new battery.

 

[RossKean]

And living in Las Vegas, the Lithium battery is a reasonable option. Not so much in the north - the performance drops badly when temperatures approach freezing.

 

[PhilJet09]

5 year old battery in a cold climate, my guess is battery. However, starter and selenoid are also suspect. I was in the same boat this past winter and changed the starter because I had that area opened up anyway, plus my starter hade 125,00 miles on it. Made no difference. I could have put a meter on it while turning the starter to check current draw, but I already had a spare waiting. My 6 year old battery failed to start my bike two weeks ago, so I replaced it last week..starts really well now. I put another Motobatt in it, because it's a drop in item. No f-ing around filling it with acid like the Yuasa replacement. Basically, a new battery for you is warranted and a low-risk expenditure. Even if it doesn't fix your problem, you probably needed one anyway.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My '04 would, to the month, EVERY THREE YEARS, need battery replacement.

 

[08FJR4ME]

92K miles on my 2008 with the original battery. If it gets below 40 degrees it stays in the garage. Not enough cold cranking amps left.

Dave

 

[redneckj]

original battery in my 2010 at 50,000 miles. maybe i should replace it? I guess battery tenders do work.

 

[RossKean]

original battery in my 2010 at 50,000 miles. maybe i should replace it? I guess battery tenders do work.

Original battery in my '07 @ 170,000 miles (just changed due to reduced reserve capacity - still worked). I guess battery tenders aren't needed.

 

[NMRoadRunner]

My 07 lasted 8 years and 74000 miles, dropped in an Interstate AGM and am pretty happy with it.