Time for New Front Brake Pads!

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mcatrophy --

On my '04 I swap the front pads back and forth to extend their life. For whatever reason the inner pads wear faster. I move them about to equalize their wear. I have 55K miles on the OE pads. I'd estimate there's about 15K miles left in the pads.

 
I'm kinda a little bit surprised, if not shocked, that no one's commented on my rear EBC pads going south in 5,000 miles. Personally, I'm stunned they went SO fast, but no one has batted an eye. How about some input, guys and gals...

 
I'm kinda a little bit surprised, if not shocked, that no one's commented on my rear EBC pads going south in 5,000 miles. Personally, I'm stunned they went SO fast, but no one has batted an eye. How about some input, guys and gals...
I'll bite, I would bet they either wore out because your caliper was stuck, or you use the rear brake a LOT. They may be softer than OEM pads but not THAT much softer.

On my bike they'd probably last 50k miles at least.

 
Actually, not all EBC brake pads are the same.

Howie failed to mention that the ones he bought were made from Frumunda Manatee Phallus Cheese.

Oh, yeah... I got your input right here, big guy!! :eek:

 
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I'm kinda a little bit surprised, if not shocked, that no one's commented on my rear EBC pads going south in 5,000 miles. Personally, I'm stunned they went SO fast, but no one has batted an eye. How about some input, guys and gals...
Sorry, Howie, I didn't realise you wanted everyone to know you ride Frankenbike as if it was a Harley :red_bandana: . Now your secret is out :blushing: .

Get yourself onto a good novice riding course where they'll teach you to use the FRONT BRAKE. Ok, you're scared of going over the handlebars, but if you put your screen in its top position it will save you from running yourself over.

:innocent:

 
I'm kinda a little bit surprised, if not shocked, that no one's commented on my rear EBC pads going south in 5,000 miles. Personally, I'm stunned they went SO fast, but no one has batted an eye. How about some input, guys and gals...
I'll Bite! :rolleyes:

5,000 Miles on a set of Brake Pads SUCKS & BlOWS at the Same Time!! :unsure:

Technically, That's Impossible to do but, EBC manages to accomplish it! :dribble:

 
I'm kinda a little bit surprised, if not shocked, that no one's commented on my rear EBC pads going south in 5,000 miles. Personally, I'm stunned they went SO fast, but no one has batted an eye. How about some input, guys and gals...
Just saw this Howie..... First thing I would check is is the pedal for the rear brakes is sticking.... need to periodically lube that shaft...... I can't imagine anyone is that heavy a rear brake user to wear out a set in 5k, so next, have we got a stuck caliper/not sliding/releasing. Also, on Hondas at least, the OEM rear pad is noticably thicker than the fronts, but EBC supplies them all the same..... what I don't know is, are the rear OEM FJR pads thicker than the fronts?

Regardless, the new shoes should last a heck of a lot longer than 5k, more like 20k.

Also, for those of you who just push their pistons back, you should really remove the caliper, remove pads, clean the pistons with a toothbrush and brake cleaner to get the crud off before you push them back in. The crud will damage the dust seals, but probably not the fluid seal and many times you can get away with it. But going from a worn out set of pads to new, you are pushing the pistons back in quite a bit... meaning there was more piston out there getting crud on it.... maybe I'm being a bit anal...... YMMV.

 
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On my Gen-I I can change the pads in less than 10 minutes. The Gen-II has the added "complication" of having 4 pads per caliper, rather than 2, a requirement of the linked brakes system, so yes, you need 4 units of part# 3P6-W0045-00-00.
There's a long bolt that goes across the back of the caliper to retain the pads. Unscrew the bolt, spring clip pops off and the old pads slide out, the new pads slide in (after squeezing the pistons into the caliper cylinder,) replace the spring clip and the bolt.

The only thing I left out is don't lever against the rotor to retract the pistons. Some people like to remove the caliper from the fork to get better access for this, but I've never needed to. Just push each piston all the way in, put new pads in. Give both front and rear brakes (since there's a linked set) a few grabs until they firm up.

Unless for some reason you let a piston all the way out, there's no bleeding involved just for a pad change.
the '04-'05 Gen I rotors are too big to get the wheel in and out without removing the calipers from each side
oh, I was in reference to replacing the front tire and then checking the pads since it's convenient at that point

 
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