petey
Well-known member
Neither is mine, it's at tire pressure censor.AND, my rim's heavy spot is NOT at the valves.
Neither is mine, it's at tire pressure censor.AND, my rim's heavy spot is NOT at the valves.
We've been doing exactly that for 10+ years. Like HRZ, the heavy spot on my rims are marked (both away from the valve stem) and the light spot of the tire is installed there. If the tires aren't marked, then depending on weight to balance, we use our judgement (and amount of time & beer left) whether to spin the tire to minimize balance weight.I am not a self changer: at $25 wheel off, all-iclusive from my local Honda dealer I don't feel the need to be. But petey brings up something I've often wondered about. For accuracy, balance, etc., particularly for the anal retentive mi·nu·ti·ae oriented, why aren't people balancing an empty wheel, then balancing an unmounted tire, then mounting so the tire heavy + the wheel light to offset each other, then balancing the whole thing assembled and adjusting accordingly?I static balance my tires, I like to see how the tire is balanced "before" reinstalling the wheel.
...and TBS is throttle body synchronization.Just to keep you up to speed. TPS is throttle positioning sensor. TPMS is the tire pressure monitoring sensor. I am here to also learn.
Danny
What do you suppose the IQ is of the average trucker? I doubt that many are delving into the physics involved and questioning how on earth it could work. Apologies in advance to any truck drivers here for the generalization, but I think you get my point.Guys,
If beads really don't work why do big trucks use them. I think this is some where in the middle.
Been doing exactly that since I started mounting my own tires. I don't mount my tires to save money, although that does happen as a matter of course. I DIY so I can do a better job than the pimpley faced kid at the LBS who would ignore the fact that it took him 8 wheel weights to get the wheel and tire in balance.I am not a self changer: at $25 wheel off, all-iclusive from my local Honda dealer I don't feel the need to be. But petey brings up something I've often wondered about. For accuracy, balance, etc., particularly for the anal retentive mi·nu·ti·ae oriented, why aren't people balancing an empty wheel, then balancing an unmounted tire, then mounting so the tire heavy + the wheel light to offset each other, then balancing the whole thing assembled and adjusting accordingly?I static balance my tires, I like to see how the tire is balanced "before" reinstalling the wheel.
^^^^THIS. My last straw was when I took my wheels to CycleGear for a tire install. A girl in had never seen before did the work. Put wheels back on bike, and the bars shook like Hell. So, front wheel back off and back to CycleGear. Same girl rebalanced the tire. Tire back on bike, and same frigging shake, although less pronounced. Took the effing tire off AGAIN and back to CycleGear. Asked for a guy I knew and had him balance the tire. That one was finally right. That's the last time CycleGear did tires for me, and I got a NoMar. Done my own tires ever since.I don't mount my tires to save money, although that does happen as a matter of course. I DIY so I can do a better job than the pimpley faced kid at the LBS who would ignore the fact that it took him 8 wheel weights to get the wheel and tire in balance.
I am not a self changer: at $25 wheel off, all-iclusive from my local Honda dealer I don't feel the need to be. But petey brings up something I've often wondered about. For accuracy, balance, etc., particularly for the anal retentive mi·nu·ti·ae oriented, why aren't people balancing an empty wheel, then balancing an unmounted tire, then mounting so the tire heavy + the wheel light to offset each other, then balancing the whole thing assembled and adjusting accordingly?I static balance my tires, I like to see how the tire is balanced "before" reinstalling the wheel.
You remove the old tire then put just the wheel on the balancer and find the heavy spot, use masking tape and attach a weight to the wheel opposite the heavy spot. In other words balance just the wheel. Then mount the tire but don't seat the bead. Place the wheel with tire on balancer and mark the heavy spot on the tire then simply slid the tire around the wheel so that the heavy spot on the tire is adjacent to the light spot on the wheel, seat the bead and balance the wheel/tire assembly. Theoretically by doing this procedure you will use less weights when you balance the wheel/tire combo. Oh, when you balance just the wheel take a felt tip and mark the wheel light spot inside the wheel for future reference so you don't have to repeat the wheel by itself balance part of the procedure. Also, make note of the weights needed to balance just the wheel.I am not a self changer: at $25 wheel off, all-iclusive from my local Honda dealer I don't feel the need to be. But petey brings up something I've often wondered about. For accuracy, balance, etc., particularly for the anal retentive mi·nu·ti·ae oriented, why aren't people balancing an empty wheel, then balancing an unmounted tire, then mounting so the tire heavy + the wheel light to offset each other, then balancing the whole thing assembled and adjusting accordingly?I static balance my tires, I like to see how the tire is balanced "before" reinstalling the wheel.
Interesting concept. How do you balance an unmounted tire????
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