Tire Change - Old School

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Curious if any of you have tried changing your FJR tire old school by using regular tire irons? If so, any comments.
Just a bit more work overall than my MoJo bar. Did it in the IBR because the changer they had would allow the rim to slip too much. I think irons would probably work better for the stiff sidewall tires like B-Specs.

 
I have a No Mar tire changer and have a boat load of tires (if you are lonely buy a tire changer). I changed tires on 2013 recently and the OEM Bridgestones were some of the most difficult tires to remove as I can recall. The PR3s went on easy enough and I can only hope the difficulties I had removing the Bridgestones was brand specific and not related to the FJR wheels.

 
I have been spooning mine on with short irons on my knees. This is to damn much work!

My next change will be a car tire on the rear using my new Harbor Freight Changer.

 
I probably change 20 tires a season for myself and friends. 3 spoons, a 2x4 bead breaker and static balancer. Never a problem except those single sided duc's you have to make sure you attack from the proper side.

 
I probably change 20 tires a season for myself and friends. 3 spoons, a 2x4 bead breaker and static balancer. Never a problem except those single sided duc's you have to make sure you attack from the proper side.
Same here. Only about 4 tires a year though. Only problem I ever had was a roadsmart rear. Some day I would like to get a tire changer, but I just can't justify the money for a few tires a year.

 
Curious if any of you have tried changing your FJR tire old school by using regular tire irons? If so, any comments?...
Many have gone rubber wrassel'n in Fred W's garage. Clever home made wheel holders, bead breaker and the correct tire irons. Sweat! Yankee frugal rim protectors from the grand kid's milk bottles. Sweat! There is nothing wrong with Old School, lotsa worn rubber came in and lots of new rubber left. Fred has upgraded to fancy tire changing equipment but it really hasn't made rubber swapping significantly easier.

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3 spoons, Harbor Freight bead breaker and Dyna beads for balancing for me. Yea it works, and saves some $$$. If I didn't go through 2 sets a year I would just have the shop change them for $25 a tire (wheel carried in). The Dyna beads work, but I am going with a static balancer like in ionbeam's photo above soon. Too difficult to get the beads out of the old tire (I recycle them), then put them through the valve stem after new tire is mounted, especially with angled valve stems.

 
ionbeam already told most of my tire changing story.

An old (14" is the perfect size) steel wheel from the junkyard with a piece of split garden hose on the rim makes a dandy tire stand and keeps the brake rotors off the ground. A 2x4 bead breaker attached to the wall is also easy make.

I would recommend getting a 3rd tire iron. I have only 2 and ended up using a big screw driver as the stationary bead holder when mounting. And I bought my tire balancer on fleaBay for less than a hundred bucks.

Last winter I spent some of my tax refund on a Cycle Hill changer. It was just under $500. It does a nice job bead breaking and of holding the wheels up at waist level for the tire mount / demount. The big bar they give you works great for demounting, but I still usually find myself spooning the new tires on the rim rather than using the mount bar as it is just easier to do that way. Plus it takes me longer to setup the Cycle Hill as I don't have the space to leave it set up and have to bolt it to a spot in the floor each time and then put it away when done. Certainly not worth the $500 for someone that only changes tires once or twice a year.

I've considered selling off my Cycle Hill and going back to my tried and true old school methods.

 
Old school for CT's as well. 2 pairs of hands is a must though.
Too cheap to buy one of those high falootin tire changers.
Only need one pair if...

You have a way to secure the wheel-I cobbed up a wheel holder that clamps in my bench vise and holds the wheel vertical and is easy on the backbone..

I welded up a clamp using cheapo Harbor Freight C-clamps and some bed iron.. it will squeeze about 90 degrees of the beads opposite the tar arns..

I used to do about 20 a year, charge for the service was pizza and beer.. wonder where all the riders went?

 
A very nice writeup and informative photos from Fred and Alan, Thank You Very Much!

Probably will stay with the Cycle Gear Store in Mesa, AZ for $25 a tire, but really nice to see the process!

 
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...Probably will stay with the Cycle Gear Store in Mesa, AZ for $25 a tire, but really nice to see the process!
In New England there are many shops that simply won't install a tire that you didn't buy from their shop. Then there are shops that will install a tire purchased someplace else but punish you by charging $60/wheel or more if you carry the wheels in. It is almost impossible to find a shop locally that will change a tire for $25 and do a competent job. I do have a good relationship with a local dealer that has in the past changed tires for $15 - $25/wheel but he is an hour drive each way.

 
3 spoons and a bumper jack to break the beads. Spray silicone for tire removal,it almost falls off the rim. I made a box out of 2x4s to set the disc in. I'm going to try the no tool(5 straps) method and see if I can pop a tire on. I've been changing my own for nearly 50 years.

 
Old school for CT's as well. 2 pairs of hands is a must though.
Too cheap to buy one of those high falootin tire changers.
Only need one pair if...

You have a way to secure the wheel-I cobbed up a wheel holder that clamps in my bench vise and holds the wheel vertical and is easy on the backbone..

I welded up a clamp using cheapo Harbor Freight C-clamps and some bed iron.. it will squeeze about 90 degrees of the beads opposite the tar arns..

I used to do about 20 a year, charge for the service was pizza and beer.. wonder where all the riders went?
Sounds very interesting. You have any pictures of the set up? I still do it on my hands knees with the wheel on 2x4's on the ground. I always tell myself I'm going to get a 14" wheel, garden hose, etc like Fred's set up but I never get round to it. Your set up sounds like a good winter's day project, though.

 
Last winter I spent some of my tax refund on a Cycle Hill changer. It was just under $500. It does a nice job bead breaking and of holding the wheels up at waist level for the tire mount / demount. The big bar they give you works great for demounting, but I still usually find myself spooning the new tires on the rim rather than using the mount bar as it is just easier to do that way. Plus it takes me longer to setup the Cycle Hill as I don't have the space to leave it set up and have to bolt it to a spot in the floor each time and then put it away when done. Certainly not worth the $500 for someone that only changes tires once or twice a year.
I'm almost the same way, except less money on the HF changer. Mine was a birthday present from my wife some years ago. I don't do many changes per year but at $25 per tire, it's done and paid for itself a long long time ago.

3 spoons, Harbor Freight bead breaker and Dyna beads for balancing for me. Yea it works, and saves some $$$. If I didn't go through 2 sets a year I would just have the shop change them for $25 a tire (wheel carried in). The Dyna beads work, but I am going with a static balancer like in ionbeam's photo above soon. Too difficult to get the beads out of the old tire (I recycle them), then put them through the valve stem after new tire is mounted, especially with angled valve stems.
Curious...I've looked into the beads but have never used them yet. If the beads are so hard to get out, in that they don't pour out of the tire, why not just put the beads in the new tire and then mount it? Why do they have to go through the valve stem?

 
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Another 'old school' practitioner here. I was lured in by the money that can be saved by buying tires on line and the satisfaction of doing your own work.

I clamp a 14" dia ring, about 4" high (made from a rolled piece of aluminum sheet) onto my work bench. A threaded rod with big washers is inserted through the wheel bearings and through the bench to sandwich the support ring. This supports the wheel while the tires are wrestled off and on. Very low-tech, but works well.

I use three tire irons, various sizes of wooden blocks and alot of tire lubricant to facilitate the operation. I have done it several times by myself but do find it easier with another set of hands.

I've done my bike several times, and a couple buddies bikes (R1200RT, C14). I made my own balancer which is similar to the Marc Parnes type and works very well.

 
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