Tire repair learning

[Big Sky]

Awhile ago I posted on practicing plugging a hole in a PR II "B" rear. I had a badly worn one on and due for replacement so intentionally punctured it and tried plugging with the sticky strings. Soapy solution revealed the plug leaked and it lost 10 lbs. pressure in 10 hours, if I recall correctly.

Well, yesterday, 130 miles from home, I spied a nasty nail in the center of the tread of my PR II "B" rear. No idea how long it had been there, but decided to pull it (turned out to be about 2.5 inches long!) rather than attempt to ride it home that way, then hope for the best with a plugging attempt. I also added some of the kit cement to the sticky string, a suggestion from a more knowledgeable fellow rider. After it was plugged and trimmed properly (1/4-inch left) I let it set up for 15 minutes or so, then inflated. The nice lady at the C-store offered a spray bottle of soapy cleaner to test the plug. It was leaking and at about twice the rate of my earlier experimental attempt at plugging. Shit! I wonder, what am I doing wrong? Anyway, I pump it up to 44.5 lbs., then head, cautiously, down the road where I know a truck stop - and air - is 30 miles away. I get to the truck stop, warmed tire is showing 47 lbs. of pressure. This would indicate no leak. Hmmm. I surmise that driving on the plug helps complete the seal, and maybe warming it contributes, too. The plug looked like a dirty wad of gum stuck there. 110 miles later and I'm home, the somewhat cooler tire indicates 46 lbs. and there is no exterior sign of the plug, but the nail-gouged spot in the surface shows plainly.

So, I conclude that the plugging job is not complete until the tire is driven on and warmed ... but then I could be full of shit.

And by the way, we are fortunate when we can go for a 1,000-mile three-day ride in Montana in October. The cottonwoods and aspens and shrubbery are just aflame with color, though in higher elevations the aspens are already done but the larch is starting to light up. Wonderful!

 

[C&C]

Unless your puncture was from a 'virgin' nail, it was probably either rusted, or at least not smooth, and has contributed to contaminating the puncture hole. I think it is important to reem out the puncture hole with the rasp (provided) in repair kit (and also to try to follow the direction of the puncture when reeming the hole smooth). Then when inserting the plug, the sticky string will more positively reach all the nooks and crannys that exist in the hole. The plug is self vulcanizing, and while the glue can ease insertion (i.e. lube the repair channel), is not critical to the repair.

 

[NMRoadRunner]

"Spare the glue, Spoil the patch" whats it going to hurt? Squirt the hell out of it, more is better then less. and ream it out really good, the string is more then big enough to seal it. You running at 47psi? I think thats a little too much, you should be between 39 min and 42 max. You can run along ways on a plug if you have to, don't freak out, just check the pressure when you have stopped for a break and you'll gain confidence in the patch job

 

[Big Sky]

The nail I pulled out was very rough and corroded, appearing to have been run over numerous times. I was wondering how much to ream the hole. I ran the reaming tool in and out maybe four or five times. Evidently considerably more would clean up the interior of the hole and perhaps make it more uniform. I did note the nail penetrated at a 45 degree angle and did follow its path with the rasp.

I usually run 42 psi in the rear, but inflated it after the plugging to 44.5, which was 47 psi when the tire was warm. I wanted a little extra pressure since I wasn't sure how fast I'd be losing it. This tire has 5,600 miles on it and is already pretty thin. The previous one went 6,800 and was almost getting dangerous when I replaced it. I just ordered a new set of PR IIs. I'll note they do wear a little oddly and thrum when leaned over, but handling remains sharp and stable with no wobbles.

Thanks for the replies and the additional information.

 

[Geezer]

Just to be sure, you do fold the sticky string over the insertion tool so that both ends are sticking out of the tire when you are done, with the fold inside the tire. It seems obvious to me, but someone did post that they had trouble with a tire repair and it turned out that they were pushing only one end of the string through the tire so that there was only a single strand to patch the hole.

 

[Brodie]

... so that both ends are sticking out of the tire when you are done, with the fold inside the tire...

Geezer

Your insertion tool must be shaped like a fork, else how would you be able to extract it without pulling the string out with it. My insertion tool is in the shape of an eye. It requires me to insert the string fully through the hole into the tyre. Then I pull it out enough to cut the string. With the string doubled over it will leave 2 strands in the wound.

Brodie

 

[BwanaDik]

... so that both ends are sticking out of the tire when you are done, with the fold inside the tire...

Geezer

Your insertion tool must be shaped like a fork, else how would you be able to extract it without pulling the string out with it. My insertion tool is in the shape of an eye. It requires me to insert the string fully through the hole into the tyre. Then I pull it out enough to cut the string. With the string doubled over it will leave 2 strands in the wound.

Brodie

That one had me going, I had to go down to my bike and check my repair kit. Yes, the one I use is shaped like a fork like Geezers but it has a tip on the end to aid in inserting it into the tire. The instructions say to push the string in then twist the tool 1/4 to 1/2 turn and pull it out. The couple of times I've used it it worked like a charm. I've got one of those nifty tools with four different tools in the tool handle. One is a roughing tool, the other three are insertion tools. Two of those are the elongated eye types like yours Brodie, the third is the fork type. Of the two eye types, one has a split at the end but I seriously doubt the string would push the split apart on withdrawl.

With the eye type, I suppose you push the string all the way in then pull it back out, leaving the loose ends in the tire. Then cut the loop that is now on the outside and go on your way.

 

[Big Sky]

The only insertion tool in my kit has the "split eye" at the tip. So, yes, the string gets doubled when inserted and has two tails protruding which then get trimmed.