Torque settings for tapered steering head bearings

[sliick2]

Friends, over the winter I put in some tapered steering head bearings & used the settings that JimLor

had posted in his write up on his installation process. I used 52ft.lbs. for the initial torque-then backed off one turn. Re-torqued to 25 ft.lbs.

I got the chance last Sat. to get out & get the bike inspected.While out,checking the feel & handleing.

The bike felt vague & I had to correct the steering often (not normal for the bike ) . Checked @ various

speeds. So went home & went through the whole process again only this time I used 18 ft.lbs.as the

final torque. Went out again- it seemed better ,but still had to correct steering some .

I have read that w/tapered bearings you should use a higher torque setting-if that's the case why would

my steering feel a little better @ a somewhat lower setting ?

Is there a number that has worked " Great " for you guys ? Should I be going the other way ( higher ) in my settings. I would love not to have to do this many more times to get it right

. Thanks so much in advance. Sliick

 

[ahchiu]

Use the same torque settings as stock, I tried more # and it did not feel right.

85 ft-lbs (nut size 36mm) Steering Stem Nut Cap Nut
37 Lower stem nut initial tightening
13 Lower stem nut final tightening

 

[KMD]

Do mine every year as part of winter service, 35lbs initial, back it off, 13lbs final, (as above), no probs.

 

[Queensland Ken]

When reading various posts on the Forums and some engineering web sites, I went for a lower torque value.

I checked with the fitters at work as well.

Did my 06 then my 07 as soon as I bought her, the 07 had crap bearings at 12K kms.

I set both bikes around 15ft/lbs and never had a problem, feels great.

 

[SLK50]

The FSM for my /other/ bike with tapered bearings says " no preload"

for tightening the stem nut.

It should be tight enough so there is absolutely no play in the stem but

not so tight to cause binding.

Steering movement should be smooth with little to no resistance.

HTH

 

[dcarver]

Old skool here..

No torque values needed.

Snug, Snug+, CCW to snug.

Snug as a Bug n a Rug -

and all is good well over 30k later.

Sometimes, tech specs get you into more trouble than common wrenching sense.

Like calibrating dimensional equipment, I guess, it's an learned skill.

 

[escapefjrtist]

The FSM for my /other/ bike with tapered bearings says " no preload"for tightening the stem nut.

It should be tight enough so there is absolutely no play in the stem but

not so tight to cause binding.

Steering movement should be smooth with little to no resistance.

HTH

This ^^^^ is where you want to be.

--G

 

[900gc]

The FSM for my /other/ bike with tapered bearings says " no preload"for tightening the stem nut.

It should be tight enough so there is absolutely no play in the stem but

not so tight to cause binding.

Steering movement should be smooth with little to no resistance.

HTH

This ^^^^ is where you want to be.

--G

Also agree. By design, one would think the tapered roller bearings would not need anything more than to be tight enough to remove play. I assume you would initially torque down as usual to make sure things are seated, then back off to finger tight or mere inch pounds.

You can always call Allballs Racing and ask.

 

[sliick2]

You guys are the best ! Thanks so much. I'm sure this info will help others with the same question.

 

[sliick2]

I went w/ dcarver's version of snug (as above ) . The 'ol girl is back to normal-dead straight & love'n it. Thanks guys !!