Torque value for plastic cowling hex bolts

[06FJRider]

Interestingly enough a search of this subject brought up nothing in either the FSM or the forum or FJRtech... I would have sworn I had read something in the forum but cannot find it.

The factory shop manual lists a "generic" recommendation for a M6 bolt of 4.3 foot-pounds (too big - these are M4) but nothing is mentioned for these size bolts used to hold the plastic side cowlings (among others) in either the general recommendations or in the side panel dis /assembly instructions.

Basically what I am looking for is a good recommendation that will keep the cowlings from falling off, yet at the same time not result in an over-tightening situation, with the concommitant plastic panel failure due to being crushed by the fastener.

Based on the 2006 FSM recommendations on pg 2-16, I am thinking that something in the order of 18 - 24 inch-pounds should be right (basically halfing the recommended torque of a M6 for use with a M4).

Anyone else have a better torque recommendation? (Goodn'tight was already mentioned in a previous posting to the forum, thanks)

 

[ahchiu]

I do it by feel, as soon as it starts to snug I go another 1/4 turn max

 

[Brodie]

I take it you are talking about the hex socket button head screws with the nylon washer under the head. These screw into a nut plate clipped on the mating piece. For example, on the '06 there are 3 per side attaching the upper faring to the lower one.

My practice is snug with the short end of the Allen wrench pinched in my thumb and fore finger. Use it the other way allows too much torque. The nylon washer aids in tightness without crushing. If it hurts your thumb/finger you are trying too hard.

Fred, do you want to convert that into bolt stretch for our friend here?

Hope it helps.

Brodie

 

[lnewlf]

I do it by feel, as soon as it starts to snug I go another 1/4 turn max

Me too-Seen on wall above urinal "Don't look here, the joke is in your hand"...

 

[wfooshee]

Seriously, why look for a torque spec on a fastener that is obviously tight enough when you turn the allen wrench down and it stops? Besides, it's bolting into a spring clip, not solid metal.

The nylon washer has nothing to do with tension or slippage of the bolt head. It keeps the bolt from adhering to the paint and tearing the paint off when the fastener is removed.

 

[madmike2]

The nylon washer has nothing to do with tension or slippage of the bolt head. It keeps the bolt from adhering to the paint and tearing the paint off when the fastener is removed.

That's what I thought: To protect the paint finish under the allen-screw head.

 

[Brodie]

The nylon washer has nothing to do with tension or slippage of the bolt head. It keeps the bolt from adhering to the paint and tearing the paint off when the fastener is removed.

That's what I thought: To protect the paint finish under the allen-screw head.

You're right, it's to protect the finish under the screw head.

Just like it's good practice to use a washer over a slotted hole.

I bow to your superior knowledge.

 

[madmike2]

....... a slotted hole.

I'm guessing that's what I have in my brain rather than the convolutions others possess.

 

[SkooterG]

Not too loose, and not too tight.

How long till Friday?

 

[Patriot]

Anyone else have a better torque recommendation? (Goodn'tight was already mentioned in a previous posting to the forum, thanks)

turn till it strips and then back off half a turn... :yahoo:

 

[ShinyPartsUp]

....... a slotted hole.

Not too loose, and not too tight....

You guys are killing me...

 

[v65]

turn till it strips and then back off half a turn... :yahoo:

Combine that with your avatar, I am starting to worry about you Mike!

 

[madmike2]

Snug!! I get'em snug. Far looser than almost stripped, and just a bit before you hear that "snapping-cracking" sound from the plastic.

Seriously, you may be overthinking the process. I've tightened mine to the point the top plastic was dishing in at the screw head. Now I don't tighten them to that spec. In 75K miles of FJR ownership I've lost @, count them TWO plastic attachment screws and each time it was MY fault. I had the plastic completely off and did not double check them.

I've lost one of the lower screws under the right pilot's foot peg.

I've lost one of the shoulder screws from the center of the Gen I large fairing. That one passes through a rubber bushing and into the main frame rail.

Different occurrences, both my fault because I was in a hurry and didn't double check myself. Completely unlike my old Concours, where I used to carry a bag of assorted fairing screws because that bike would vibrate them out if they were glued in.

YMMV.

 

[Patriot]

I've lost one of the lower screws under the right pilot's foot peg.I've lost one of the shoulder screws from the center of the Gen I large fairing.I've lost one of the lower screws under the right pilot's foot peg.

I've lost one of the shoulder screws from the center of the Gen I large fairing. That one passes through a rubber bushing and into the main frame rail.

so, ya sayin' ya a loser ??? :blink:

 

[madmike2]

so, ya sayin' ya a loser ??? :blink:

Jeez, yer fast! I thought that was already understood. :bleh:

:crazy:

 

[V GER]

a littul redd locktight wil kompunsat for any undirtorkun

 

[user 213]

Seriously, why look for a torque spec on a fastener that is obviously tight enough when you turn the allen wrench down and it stops? Besides, it's bolting into a spring clip, not solid metal.
The nylon washer has nothing to do with tension or slippage of the bolt head. It keeps the bolt from adhering to the paint and tearing the paint off when the fastener is removed.

+1

And BTW, for those that weren't paying attention in class, the bolts where there isn't a painted finish on the plastic don't have washers, at least on Gen I bikes.

To the OP, do you really have a in/lb. torque wrench that's accurate at 17-20 in/lbs? It's not rocket science, just snug them up. When they go 'tok' the next time you loosen them, it was a little tighter than necessary. You really have to be ham handed to crack the panel. Or get loctite on it, that will eat it like acid, or cause cracks at a hole if you left just a trace on the bolt as it rubbed in the hole.

 

[Bustanut joker]

Snug!! I get'em snug. Far looser than almost stripped, and just a bit before you hear that "snapping-cracking" sound from the plastic.
Seriously, you may be overthinking the process. I've tightened mine to the point the top plastic was dishing in at the screw head. Now I don't tighten them to that spec. In 75K miles of FJR ownership I've lost @, count them TWO plastic attachment screws and each time it was MY fault. I had the plastic completely off and did not double check them.

I've lost one of the lower screws under the right pilot's foot peg.

I've lost one of the shoulder screws from the center of the Gen I large fairing. That one passes through a rubber bushing and into the main frame rail.

Different occurrences, both my fault because I was in a hurry and didn't double check myself. Completely unlike my old Concours, where I used to carry a bag of assorted fairing screws because that bike would vibrate them out if they were glued in.

YMMV.

Snug!! I get'em snug. Far looser than almost stripped, and just a bit before you hear that "snapping-cracking" sound from the plastic.

Seriously, you may be overthinking the process. I've tightened mine to the point the top plastic was dishing in at the screw head. Now I don't tighten them to that spec. In 75K miles of FJR ownership I've lost @, count them TWO plastic attachment screws and each time it was MY fault. I had the plastic completely off and did not double check them.

I've lost one of the lower screws under the right pilot's foot peg.

I've lost one of the shoulder screws from the center of the Gen I large fairing. That one passes through a rubber bushing and into the main frame rail.

Different occurrences, both my fault because I was in a hurry and didn't double check myself. Completely unlike my old Concours, where I used to carry a bag of assorted fairing screws because that bike would vibrate them out if they were glued in.

YMMV.

Could you repeat that please?

Hey, what are the torque values for the screws holding your hair piece in place? :blink:

:jester:

 

[madmike2]

Hey, what are the torque values for the screws holding your hair piece in place? :blink:
:jester:

Ain't seen my pitcher lately, huh?!?!

Super-glue fer thet peech-fuzz.