Trailering the FJR

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nusman68

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Had to trailer the FJR & my Suz GS1100 to my recent trip to from TX to CA, since my wife & I had the kids with us during that time. I purchased a Kendon 'fold-up' dual rail trailer, complete with the optional stone guard up front & spare tire (which mounts underneath).

First thing: Had to remove the spare, carry it in the back of my 4-Runner because it reduced the ground clearance too much; would scrape on the end of my driveway, which has only a slight slope to it. :glare:

Upon loading the bikes, I immediately noticed that the wheel chock Kendon uses cleared the FJR's lower fairing by all of 1/16"; I put an old towel in the gap to act as a cushion in the event the bike shifted around. Had both bikes tied down with (4) Ancra-brand straps each, with strap extensions as needed. During the trip 'up' I had to tighten the straps slightly (during gas fill-ups) which I anticipated from initial stretching if nothing else.

I was impressed with the trailer's performance, in terms of the handling (its width was a benefit) & torsion bar suspension. However, after reaching CA, as we unloaded the FJR I found the wheel chock had carved away a good portion of the lower fairings 'leading edge' on the right side; in fact, it wore away so much that there was a small hole exposed. :angry2: I would have been supremely pissed, but that fairing already had some gravel damage from a recent Tx Hill Country trip (don't ask) and is on the list to be replaced anyway. All l'll need to do is to cut down the top edge of that chock a bit, dress up the edge and have it re-powdercoated to prevent that problem from recurring.

In transit, the FJR would tilt, despite the suspension & straps being tight; I had to use strap extensions off of the lower fork brace, (as the trailer only has deck-mounted {or lower} tie-down loops) thus the straps did not have a lot of leverage to work with; no way to use a Canyon Dancer setup without pulling something over & down on the upper fairing/dash areas. The old GS1100 was easier to tie down (read:no fairings) but the rear wheel would tend to migrate over from the narrow reinforced expanded-steel mesh 'track' onto the diamond plate trailer deck. It actually caused a 'dent' or 'depression' in the deck it due to it being light gauge metal. (We had to go through some amazingly bad, bumpy highways on the route up through Colorado). Again, this surprised me because I had the front & rear suspensions compressed, straps TIGHT. Next time I'll add some lateral retention strap to the rear wheel.

The stone guard paid off, shielded the bikes from the usual bugs/mudspray, etc. For overnight security, I used an On Guard 3/4" cable lock (1 per bike) through the trailer's deck rails in addition to a Xena disc lock/alarm on the FJR; no issues. On the trip back the straps stayed tighter longer, probably from the 'break-in' stretch. I'm also planning on fabricating a bracket (to add to the deck) just behind the stone guard to hold the spare tire there, vertically. Overall I'm happy with the Kendon but will be happier once the mods are done.

 
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I trailered my FJR one time about 50 miles to my summer house and when I got their she was crying her eyes out and I promised never again honey!!

 
Nusman,

Personally, I’ve just started thinking about a trailer for my bike. Good info in your post. I appreciate it.

Had never heard of a “Xena disc lock/alarm” before.

 
Just loaded the bikes up today to take them to N.C. in the morning. Still have to tie them down all the way yet! lol

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Can someone please point me at the wisdom on the proper tie down technique for the FJR? I've got a 3 rail trailer that I can use if the bike ever needs to be hauled and I've been wondering about the best method.

 
Can someone please point me at the wisdom on the proper tie down technique for the FJR? I've got a 3 rail trailer that I can use if the bike ever needs to be hauled and I've been wondering about the best method.
That's a loaded ? here! lol Many opinions! I use a CanyonDancer harness that slips over the handlebars. 2 ratchet tiedowns up front and 2 on the rear pegs. Compress approx. halfway in front and snug it up in the rear. I've never had a problem and have trailered 10's of thousands of miles when I was racing and have hauled the FJR all over also. Others will tell you to use all kinds of tiedowns and not to rely on the CanyonDancer alone. It's more than enough IMO. Never a problem. Just make sure the front's pulling forward and the rear's pulling aft. The key is inspection before use. Any deterioration, get a new one. That goes for Tiedowns also. If they look worn, replace.

 
Can someone please point me at the wisdom on the proper tie down technique for the FJR? I've got a 3 rail trailer that I can use if the bike ever needs to be hauled and I've been wondering about the best method.
Well I have to praise the Canyon Dancers and tie down straps that Smitty loaned me. It made the job so easy.

Canyon Dancer

Motorcycle Sling

The Canyon Dancer link shows just how it goes and pull down on each side a little at a time to tighten the front forks.

I also used to regular motorcycle cam type straps with a towel to protect the front wheel and tied it to each side of the truck so the wheel couldn't go side to side. (Same function as a chaulk).

On the rear at the foot pegs used the (2) Slings (1) on each side to keep the rear from bouncing around.

I tied it down and then drove about 5 miles, got out and tightened everything up and never touched it again and made it almost 900 miles no problems.

The Gsxr tied it down the same way but with its suspension being so stiff it was much easier to tow, it didn't move an inch...

PS I had it in the back of my truck and used the hooks in the front and rear of the bed...

 
Can someone please point me at the wisdom on the proper tie down technique for the FJR? I've got a 3 rail trailer that I can use if the bike ever needs to be hauled and I've been wondering about the best method.

Get yourself a tig welder and some aluminum 3x3 square tubing and just start cuting and welding, that puppy ain't going nowhere! :p :p :p :p

 
-oh yeah, forgot one other detail I should have included in the original posting: broken windshield screws; not the usual ones:

During the trip, we hit some high winds in the TX Panhandle and Colorado; got blown around pretty good; my 8 year old son noticed the windshield on the FJR was 'moving around' a fair amount during this time; I didn't think anything of it.

Got to CA, discovered the (2) centrally located (you have to remove the painted "W" shaped cover piece to reveal these) metal machine screws that hold the 'lower' metal frame piece of the windshield bracket to the 'bike mounted' piece (that goes up/down) had broken off flush in the 'bike mounted' piece itself. Thus, the windshield was only attached on the 'ends' and would pivot freely, which was useless. Not a good way to start off a bike vacation--I noticed from the 'cross section' of the screws that they looked like they were made out of pot-metal; I guess Yamaha uses these to encourage that bracket to break off clean in a crash? :unknw: not unlike the plastic machine screws that hold the windshield itself on. Had to remove the windshield the rest of the way, carefully drill out the 2 screws; made a run to the local Ace hardware that had some matching metric fasteners, typical zinc plated (no stainless available there, oh well) and reassembled. (I was lucky to have access to a drill & bits at my relative's house where the car would sit). I surmised that the high winds made the windshield flex too much, causing the problem, which still surprised me.

- Other details: I always made sure the windshield was in the lowered position while on the trailer (I disconnected the 'auto-retract' long ago) and

- It is the 'oversized' Yamaha windshield, which may have contributed to the problem.

On the way home, (bikes back on the trailer after the 1500+ mile trip through CA) I stretched an old T-shirt over the windshield & pulled some light tension on it via a bungee cord hooked through each sleeve; it reduced the 'visible buffeting' of the windshield significantly; of course, I probably didn't need to do this with the upgraded screws in place.

Next time, I'll probably get one of those tight fitting lycra/spandex bike covers that I've seen advertised for bike protection while on an open trailer.........

 
Can someone please point me at the wisdom on the proper tie down technique for the FJR? I've got a 3 rail trailer that I can use if the bike ever needs to be hauled and I've been wondering about the best method.
bmwhd: Just out of curoiusity did you have to modify your 3 rail trailer to fit your FJR? I have a 3 rail trailer for my dirt bikes but the rails are too narrow for the FJR rear tire so I need a wider bolt on rail and ramp.

 
None of the straps have to be real tite, especially the Canyondancers on the bars which should be just snug & the others just to compress the forks an inch or so. Too much fork compression can cause fork seal damage-read about it lots of times. Yes the bike (s) will lean out in a turn, but that's O K as long as the strap hooks don't come unhooked. Below is a pix of she strap "S" hook security band I put on all my hooks (trailer chains also). The security bands are an 1' wide section of dirt bike tube with small holes punched near each end to go over the "S" hooks. On a turn the bike leans some & the inside straps get loose but the security band keeps them on the trailer eye bolts. I also strap the front wheel to keep it streight. It works for me & my Wing. Later,,, De :rolleyes:

TieDownStrap.jpg


 
Can someone please point me at the wisdom on the proper tie down technique for the FJR? I've got a 3 rail trailer that I can use if the bike ever needs to be hauled and I've been wondering about the best method.
bmwhd: Just out of curiosity did you have to modify your 3 rail trailer to fit your FJR? I have a 3 rail trailer for my dirt bikes but the rails are too narrow for the FJR rear tire so I need a wider bolt on rail and ramp.
I have not actually put my FJR on it yet but I have had a BMW R1150RT on it with no issues. It's a Yacht Club and is very stout.

 

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