Trigger wire for 2016ES

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TomInPA

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Real simple. I'm installing a Fuzeblock on a 2016 FJR, and need to locate a hot wire to trigger the relay. Anyone know what color and location I'm looking for, preferably in the tail section? I don't have a manual for this bike.

 
AlleyCat, that's perfect. Easy to get to and a short run to the box under the rear seat. Thanks.

 
The '16 lights are LEDs, this is the reason I asked about a schematic. You may have a problem tapping a wire which powers a LED.

Edit: Since we haven't heard back from the OP, apparently all went well tapping the little blue wire.

 
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Allen,

What's the deal with LED's? I had to have a special set up to hook up my trailer on my car because the car has LED tail lights. I see motorcycles are the same way. What's with all the hassle with these LED's? Why all the special problems?

Gary

 
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Oh ****. You have been warned. Below is the stuff from
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the sleeping zone.

Most electrical devices are voltage based; send the device 12 -15 volts DC and the device will let the current fall wherever it will. Some items like relays need some minimum 'pull-in' voltage to energize the coil enough to close the contacts; a 12 VDC relay will need 7-9 volts at a minimum to 'pull-in' and close the contacts.

LEDs are current devices with 'do not exceed' current limits. Someplace between the 12 volt power source and the LED there needs to be a current limiting device or a current source power supply. With LEDs you fix the current at some specific amount and let the forward voltage of the diode fall where ever it wants. Regular LEDs tend to have 1.2 to 1.8 forward voltage and some of the blinder LEDs may have as much as 4.2 to 4.8 volts.

When you buy LED lights to add on to your bike the current limit is almost always built into the device, you simply connect it to 12 volts. When you buy driving lights or other high power lights they almost all will have a power supply to drive the lights, you put 12 volts to the power supply and the supply will feed the LEDs the current they need.

When you have a whole system like the FJR, Yamaha may build the LED current control into the ECU so the voltage on the harness wires going to the LED lights could be 2 to 4 volts. Yamaha could put the current limit in the LED lights, in which case there will be 12 volts going through the wiring harness to the lights.

I need to see a schematic to see what way Yamaha has gone with the '16 LED lighting. In my '15ES the LED lights have the current limit inside the lighting device and the device is simply fed 12 volts from the normal charging system voltage. With my '15ES I could tap the LED power wires to be used as an ignition switched trigger wire.

A typical LED circuit looks like this:

led_circuit.gif


The band end (cathode) of the diode normally goes to ground. The voltage going into the diode (anode) is at the triangle end. The 330 ohm resistor limits the current into the diode. In this case the diode will be limited to 0.018 amps (18 milliamps). The resistor will allow a voltage drop between the battery and the anode of the diode such that one end of the resistor will be 6 volts and the other end of the resistor going to the LED will be 1.2 to 1.8 volts depending on the type of LED being powered.

In my ES the resistor is part of the LED assembly.

==================================================================

Where I currently work one of the things we build are LASER power supplies, some power supplies only put out 6 to 9 volts but they supply hundreds to thousands of amps with great precision. There are very few milliamps difference between a $2,000 high power laser diode and a $2,000 piece of burnt carbon
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and when things go wrong the customers get pissy about it for some reason.

 
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The '16 lights are LEDs, this is the reason I asked about a schematic. You may have a problem tapping a wire which powers a LED.
Edit: Since we haven't heard back from the OP, apparently all went well tapping the little blue wire.
I dunno...we drank some beer instead and put this off for tomorrow.
punk.gif


Based on your second post it looks like our beer was well timed, and avoided a potential problem. I totally forgot this bike uses all LED lights in the tail. I'm so low tech, and ride a superior Gen I still!

 
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I think you are ok to use the rear light blue wire as a trigger, ElectricFJR reported it as a valid signal here.

 
It's simple. Put a voltmeter on the wire in question. If it's 12 V with the key turned on and 0 V with the key turned off then you are good-to-go. If significantly less than that, then Yamaha has elected to power the LEDs differently. I'm betting you will be fine but I would definitely check it out first. (I assume that the load imposed by the relay coil is low enough that it won't adversely affect the LED circuit. Hope that's a valid assumption.)

 
Most headlight relays have coil current ratings of 0.150 to 0.200 amps (150 milliamps to 200 milliamps) to fully energize the coil. Even the glove box plug circuit can easily power a relay coil.

 
RacinRay asked: "I'm looking for a switched power source for a 12v relay on my ES. Preferably I'd like an unused connector of some sort so I don't have to cut into the wiring harness. Any suggestions?"
Where on the bike would you like it?

I find that the most convenient 12V switched power source for triggering a relay in the front end of the bike is the brown power wire going to the horn (pink wire is a switched ground from the horn button).

You can make a little in-line harness, or else use one of the piggyback solder-less spade connectors (shown below) to pick up that switched 12 volts with no hacking into the bike's wiring harness required..

Piggyback%20Spade%20Connector.jpg


 
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Thanks for the reply Fred!

The location is not critical to me other than ease of access to tap in. That is to say under the seat is better than under the fairing.

My objective is to power my top case. I just haven't decided whether to do this directly from the battery or install a fuzeblock. Either way I'll need a trigger wire for a relay.

It sounds like the horn or license plate light wires will work for me.

 
I just saw the 50% off sale on Powerlet products at bike effects and ordered a luggage kit. This project is starting off well. Now I just need to decide if I want to add a fuseblock.

 
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