hppants
Well-known member
I've been turning wrenches for almost 40 years. I'm no mechanical genius, but I know the difference between a bad bearing and a good one.
So it's time to replace my front tire. I always check wheel bearings when I remove a wheel. My front bearings now are still sealed, tight, and turn freely with no unusual feeling (notchiness, flat spot, etc). I took a very small screw driver and gently pried one of the outer seals and confirmed the bearing is still full of grease. On other bikes I've owned, a wheel bearing usually goes out at around the mileage I've got now (43K).
What has been the experience with the FJR?
At what point (if ever) do the wheel bearings start to give problems?
Is the consensus to replace with the OEM bearings?
The method I have found to be most effective is to put the new bearings in the freezer over night. Use a plumber's torch to gently apply heat to the hub. Then use a long drift to drive the bearing out from the opposite side. The expanded aluminum hub allows the steel bearing to come out easier. For installation, apply a little more heat, and the contracted frozen bearing slips in like butter, driven with an appropriate-sized socket. Is this the preferred method for the FJR?
So where am I at - an ounce of prevention? Or a pound of paranoia?
So it's time to replace my front tire. I always check wheel bearings when I remove a wheel. My front bearings now are still sealed, tight, and turn freely with no unusual feeling (notchiness, flat spot, etc). I took a very small screw driver and gently pried one of the outer seals and confirmed the bearing is still full of grease. On other bikes I've owned, a wheel bearing usually goes out at around the mileage I've got now (43K).
What has been the experience with the FJR?
At what point (if ever) do the wheel bearings start to give problems?
Is the consensus to replace with the OEM bearings?
The method I have found to be most effective is to put the new bearings in the freezer over night. Use a plumber's torch to gently apply heat to the hub. Then use a long drift to drive the bearing out from the opposite side. The expanded aluminum hub allows the steel bearing to come out easier. For installation, apply a little more heat, and the contracted frozen bearing slips in like butter, driven with an appropriate-sized socket. Is this the preferred method for the FJR?
So where am I at - an ounce of prevention? Or a pound of paranoia?
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