Turbo City Fuel Pressure Regulator

[Warchild]

Many of you recall 3-4 days before Christmas, we had a somewhat lively thread on the Turbo City FPR, which essentially adds 5psi to the fuel rail in an attempt to eliminate the low-speed surge many FJRs display.

While I objected to the suggestion it eliminates and/or replaces the need for a PC-III (and the constant name-dropping thereof), still, I was curious to see what effect it could have on the bike.

So as of this afternoon, I begin my time as another beta-tester for this component.

Here is the shrink-wrapped package you receive: the FPR, and a set of simple yet complete instructions, includes a schematic diagram of the EFI system with the component highlighted - which is a nice touch to help you located the item:

The instructions call to remove the fuel tank. This is quite unnecessary Simply lift and support the tank as you normally do: FJRTech: Working under the FJR Fuel Tank. Once the tank is lifted, the FPR is easily accessible on the far right end of the fuel rail:

At this point, use your long needle-nose pliers to pluck the cooked remains of any Dragonfly carcasses you may find near the air-intakes:

While the FPR is still being held rigidly in place, this is a good time to use those pliers to slide the fuel line hose clamp down off the metal intake, so there is one less thing to do while fuel is leaking out of the rail upon FPR removal:

The vacuum line is thoroughly snug (typical, since it has never been removed since it was built 4 1/2 years ago) Take a small stright-blade screwdriver and

carefully pry it off. Don't muscle-**** this line and rip it open... there isn't a whole helluva of slack in the line as it is!

Now remove the two retaining phillips-head fasteners. After you are done completely fucking up the screwhead because some sake-ladened Sumo-wrestler on the assembly line torqued it to 93 ft-lbs, break out your Dremel and use a tiny cutting wheel to cut a sizeable slot so you can put a MAN's screwdriver to the fastener:

With a nice straight slot cut into the phillips screw-head, break out your Craftsman's MAN-driver and apply 94 ft-lbs of torque to "pop" that bastard free. And no, there wasn't a lick of Loctite on the threads... fucking thing really was seriously overtorqued... :angry: Fortunately, the bottom fastener was properly torqued, and came out with no issues.

Okay, getting close now.... stuff a few rags under the FPR to catch the trickle of fuel that is about to escape, and with both fasteners removed, pull that puppy straight out. Hold it out of the way and install the new Turbo City FPR.

All done! Remove the old FPR from the fuel line and re-attach the line to the Turbo City component. Adjust the fuel line clamp, and reattach the vacuum line. Start the engine up and check for leaks. (that bit of moisture on the vacuum line end is not fuel; it is from the small squirt of WD-40 applied to the vacuum fitting to help facilitate re-attachment:

First run with this component is tomorrow morning's commute to work. Initial impressions posted shortly thereafter.

Questions.

 

[warsw]

ttt

 

[BrunDog]

Very cool and funny post, WC. That sumo-sake-96 ft. lb. thing made me hit the floor. My guess is the screw was locked due to corrosion. Also, I would be concerned about leaving that dremeled screw in. With the raw steel exposed, isn't it going to rust?

Anyway, to the meat:

1. Did you disable the PCIII (load a zero map) before doing this? What about the O2 sensor, did you reconnect, or do they want the motor to stay in open loop mode?

2. Does TurboCity recommend upping the CO settings via the barbarian jumper and diag screen?

3. Does TurboCity make any statements about injectors (ie age, condition, cleaning) before installing this? Could increasing pressure to a compromised injector cause it to stick open?

4. Did you put the dragonfly on your sandwich? I find they add a nice crunch...

-BD

 

[Warchild]

First run with this component is tomorrow morning's commute to work. Initial impressions posted shortly thereafter.

Well.... a 8 mile commute into work this morning is hardly a thorough enough run to comment with assurance, but.... there is no earth-shattering difference I can detect so far.

There appears to be little noticeable difference in the 0-30 mph range.

From around 30-ish to about 55mph, I think that I might be detecting a pinch more responsiveness. Maybe. I dunno, perhaps it's because I am looking for it and want it to be there. It's not like the bike was struggling in this mph range before. If there is a difference, it's fairly subtle.

Never really got above 60 mph or so during the commute in, so I'll save that report for a later time.

As mentioned in the install instructions, the new FPR did result in increasing my idle from its usual 1100 RPM up to around 1300-ish RPM. So I'll adjust that down a little this evening after work.

Now, I should point out that my deer-strike bike is one of those seemingly rare 2003 models that is blessed with next to no low-speed surging that we commonly see in many FJRs across all model years. I am almost wishing I had my old Timex bike to experiment with this new FPR... that was one low-speed surging mo-fo until I installed a PC-III and uploaded the Wally Kilburg "Smoothness" Map to it.

In any event, more to come as I put this Turbo City puppy through the ringer over time. One of the main items I want to ascertain is the effect on my MPG average. I routinely score in the 39 mpg range (+/- 2 or so MPG) when doing the routine commute to work thingy. I usually see in the mid-40's during interstate cruising (when I'm not too frisky). If this FPR negatively impacts to any substantial degree, that will obviously be a detriment to the final grade I give it.

 

[tripletango]

ttt

eh? Someone looking for me. <_<

Thanks Warchild. Fun writeup on a farkle install.

 

[Warchild]

Very cool and funny post, WC. That sumo-sake-96 ft. lb. thing made me hit the floor. My guess is the screw was locked due to corrosion. Also, I would be concerned about leaving that dremeled screw in. With the raw steel exposed, isn't it going to rust?

Oh, I will be replacing it here at some point. This Turbo City Fuel Pressure Regulator (hereafter re-named to : TC-FPR) may not be a permanent install for me, so I'll hold off replacing the fastener for a while in case the OEM component goes back in. Not even a hint of any corrosion on the threads of either fastener. I was expecting a large dollop of Loctite Green, the way that first fastener won't budge. Not a hint of any Loctite on either fastener, though.

Anyway, to the meat:
1. Did you disable the PCIII (load a zero map) before doing this? What about the O2 sensor, did you reconnect, or do they want the motor to stay in open loop mode?

2. Does TurboCity recommend upping the CO settings via the barbarian jumper and diag screen?

3. Does TurboCity make any statements about injectors (ie age, condition, cleaning) before installing this? Could increasing pressure to a compromised injector cause it to stick open?

4. Did you put the dragonfly on your sandwich? I find they add a nice crunch...

1) Recall I have no PC-III in this bike, for the plain fact that it's one of those rare first-year models that simply has next to no low-speed surging, already has massive gitty-up-and-go engine properties, retains stock exhaust, etc, etc. So unlike my first FJR (a 2004 FJR1300ABS for the newer forum members), I have none of the typical reasons that motivate one to install a PC-III. So I saved that $260-ish cost and put it into tires. Further... I don't know why one would want to install this component if there is already a PC-III installed, as the PC-III already handles the issue that prompts one to try out the TC-FPR to begin with....

2) Negative. Actually, I should say "not to my knowledge". There is no mention of it on the install instructions. And as y'all have heard me comment before, I am not a huge proponent of the BJM anyway.

3) No mention of this in the install instructions. Personally, I routinely do a Seafoam treatment about every 10,000 miles. Don't know what impact or non-impact the TC-FPR would have on a compromised injector.

4) Heh. No. He appeared a little overdone.

 

[radman]

I was an early on proposed tester of this, but as it would be a while before I could actually get some miles on it, got a pass. I still would rather see an adjustable reg rather than a fixed high pressure reg. Would be a more machine friendly unit IMHO.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

In an earlier (Technical Discussions) thread I mentioned a holidays' talk with a sort'a relative who appraised me of the positive benefits of low pre-load/damping suspension settings on tire wear. I'd forgotten about this -- but, he also told me he installed one of these (TC-FPR) to cure low-speed surging on his large (not FJR) Sport-Touring bike. IIRC, his results were (so far) non-conclusive.

I asked why he didn't get a PCIII and he said this was a "first step".

 

[Warchild]

Update after an additional 50 miles, some interstate, most city riding:

I find I am having more positive things to say about the TC-FPR.

It does indeed appear to be making a difference in throttle response across the board, but in particular, low speed, low RPM situations. I can allow the tach to fall a fair amount lower than I normally would like it to be (say, 3000 RPM in both 3rd and 4th gear, in-town riding), and instead of downshifting to burst around a cage or otherwise increase speed quickly, the pickup even at this low RPM setting is, in fact, noticably inproved.

As I've mentioned before, my deer-strike bike is blessed with very, very little low speed surging (I'd almost have to work to try and induce it), but even this small hint of surging appears completely gone. I am beginning to suspect this component might indeed make a significant difference if your FJR displays the classic low-speed surging.

Now continuing to test over a longer period to determine the impact to MPG averages.

 

[Grumpy]

"sake-ladened Sumo-wrestler"

BD's likely correct. Steel screw into aluminum.....add moisture and you have galvanic corrosion.....Periodic Table etc. When you change the screw, put anything to protect against bare metals, like oil, greeze, anti-seaze or even green locktite and the problem of the "sake-ladened Sumo-wrestler" won't show up again.

jim

 

[Warchild]

"sake-ladened Sumo-wrestler"
BD's likely correct. Steel screw into aluminum.....add moisture and you have galvanic corrosion.

Sure, that could happen, I agree. However, not in this case... I was surprised to see the threads on the fasteners absolutely pristine, both on the fastener, and the threads interior to the fuel rail. In fact, the fastener threads still retained their original plating sheen, all the way to their endpoint. Not a hint of any corrosion whatsoever. And believe me, after several decades in Naval Aviation maintenance, I am well verse in all types of corrosion, trust me.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

"sake-ladened Sumo-wrestler"

Any motorcycle tech worth a darn will tighten all fasteners 'tighter'n hell'. They're taught that in m/c service school -- that way the home tyro won't be able to work on their own bike w/out damage. The pan-head phillips screw has been very beneficial in that regard, too (for decades)!

 

[Ignacio]

the fastener threads still retained their original plating sheen

Any motorcycle tech worth a darn will tighten all fasteners 'tighter'n hell'. They're taught that in m/c service school -- that way the home tyro won't be able to work on their own bike w/out damage. The pan-head phillips screw has been very beneficial in that regard, too (for decades)!

And the Dremel from Home Depot for $39.95 has tilted the technology war to the advantage of rogue DIY'ers. This threatens the uneasy truce between techs, engineers, and DIY'ers. Maybe Loctite was called in by Yamaha to produce a stealth clear version to resemble screw plating? h34r:

 

[JimLor]

I read in the other thread (jestal) suggesting disconnecting the O2 sensor to see if that helped by itself. I gotta axe 'cause I gotsta know, just what does the O2 sensor do and what happens when you disconnect it?

Thanks.

 

[Grumpy]

"sake-ladened Sumo-wrestler"
BD's likely correct. Steel screw into aluminum.....add moisture and you have galvanic corrosion.

Sure, that could happen, I agree. However, not in this case... I was surprised to see the threads on the fasteners absolutely pristine, both on the fastener, and the threads interior to the fuel rail. In fact, the fastener threads still retained their original plating sheen, all the way to their endpoint. Not a hint of any corrosion whatsoever. And believe me, after several decades in Naval Aviation maintenance, I am well verse in all types of corrosion, trust me.

Well then you are correct....you were screwed by a sake-ladened Sumo-wrestler!

jim

 

[fossilrider]

Warchild, any update on the TC-FPR testing?