Turn & Hazard fuse failure

[Constant Mesh]

Maybe it's been recommended but I'd go under the tank and disconnect the wiring connectors from each of the handlebar switch clusters.

Disconnect the left handlebar switches first which include the turn signal switch. See if the circuit fault is affected.

Reconnect the left side switches and then disconnect the right handlebar switches which include the hazard switch. See if the circuit fault is affected.

In both cases they are 10 circuit connectors. You can easily see which connector goes with each handlebar.

Also, everywhere there's a wiring connector that you can easily disconnect which includes the signaling circuits, disconnect it and see if it affects the fault.

All the rear lights go through a 6 circuit connector. The front marker and turn signal lights go through a 3 circuit connector on each side.

There may be a problem with the circuits for the two turn signal indicators on the display up front.

Carefully inspect all the connectors when you have them apart. In most cases the two turn signal wires are adjacent to each other in the connectors. They may be getting together in one of the connectors.

I haven't done the numbers but they may not be grounded anyway. Instead both left and right may be shorted together somewhere and both sets of lamps, right and left together, may be enough to melt the fuse.

 

[T120TT]

Would soldering spider #6 together affect the turn/hazard signals on a 2006AE? I did this as suggested on this forum. I got so discouraged with the fuse blowing problem that I shoved the bike into a corner and forgot about it until now.

 

[Donal]

Would soldering spider #6 together affect the turn/hazard signals on a 2006AE? I did this as suggested on this forum. I got so discouraged with the fuse blowing problem that I shoved the bike into a corner and forgot about it until now.

Not sure which came first - the fuse failure or the soldering of spider 6?

I would definitely try unsoldering the spider and see if that solves the fuse problem.

Just take it one step at a time............

 

[T120TT]

That seems logical, although many here have soldered that spider, apparently without complications. However, perhaps mine, being an AE, makes a difference. I'll try reversing the soldered spider and see what happens. Stay tuned.

 

[Donal]

When you 'unsolder' just leave all the wire ends free (not touching) until you have checked the fuse........

 

[T120TT]

Will do. Thanks for your thoughts. I'll post the results here.

 

[ionbeam]

If all you did was cut and solder back together the same wires and didn't damage any other nearby wires in the process, the soldering is not your problem. Ground wires don't short and cause fuses to blow.

It is very, very rare for a relay to fail in a way that causes shorting within the relay. I seriously doubt that you have a relay problem.

It sounds like there is a wiring short someplace. It may be the result of farkling or simply a harness chaffing through.

Take a look at the blown fuse, hold it up to the light and look at the filament in the fuse. If it is simply melted through with a small gap in the middle your problem is a small over current, something is drawing just a bit too much current. If the fuse filament has any black or metallic sheen on the fuse body or the filament has melted all the way back to the posts then the problem is a short.

To troubleshoot the problem will probably take unplugging all the signaling system couplers until the short goes away. What ever coupler eliminates the sort is your villein.