U-Joint Bearing Replacement (CROSS JOINT COMP. 5JW-46180-00-00)

[JamesK]

Hi all,

With my '07 FJR less than 1k miles from hitting the 300k miles mark I'm again noticing significant "slap" in the drive line when going from throttle off to on.

I have previously replaced the #38 CROSS JOINT COMP. (5JW-46180-00-00) with a new one at around 125k miles for the same reason. I still have that old/original Uni-joint so have something to experiment with.

This time I was hoping to just replace the 4x needle bearings (Koyo KC1115B-C) at a fraction of the USD $234 price + crazy shipping to Australia + plus ridiculous exchange rate...

I've searched the FJRForum and can only find one relevant post dating back to 2007 where the FNG OP was asking this same question but never received any kind of reply.

I hope the collective is in better "mood" this time and will help provide some advice on how to best proceed with this service job

Buying a used U-joint online seems like a bad idea since the shipping cost will mean that returning one if it's not as described will be higher than the price of the item...

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[JamesK]

In searching around the web I've found this nice tutorial on the process, which seems to also indicate that unless there is obvious wear in the U-joint than replacement bearings are not necessary, rather just a clean up and fresh grease.

How to Change/Lube Driveshaft U-Joint

 

[RossKean]

Sometimes difficult to tell where the driveline slap or clunk originates. I remember reading where somebody spent some time and effort to do some shimming in the rear drive unit. https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/173426-final-drive-re-shimtightening-backlasheasy/

If it turns out that the u-joint is the likely culprit, my personal inclination would be to get a used one - Fleabay. Did a few minutes of looking and there are lots available - mostly well under $50. I actually found one off a 2012 (same part) from an Australian ebay vendor (free shipping to Australia for Aus $39, $27.49 USD). Not in great cosmetic condition but probably OK internally - at least worth a call or email to the vendor to see how many miles are on it and whether there is evident corrosion.

Edit - forgot the eBay link!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-FJR-1300-12-Driveshaft-Yoke-U-Joint-Drive-Shaft-joint/272958359005?hash=item3f8d9605dd:g:YgsAAOSwTm9aHN4b

Good luck with it!

I have never heard of anybody ever having to replace the u-joint. Not saying they can't fail but it doesn't seem to be a common issue, even on higher mileage bikes. Perhaps some people are less sensitive to drivetrain noises? All I ever did to the one on my '07 in the 185,000 miles before I sold it was to wipe it down with a solvent-soaked rag every couple of years. Never allowed solvent to get inside and didn't bother trying to grease it from the outside. Bearings are pretty much sealed and grease outside just attracts dirt. (Not referring to the internal clean/grease that you linked to. That should have some benefit but at the expense of a lot of time and effort.)

 

[Bounce]

Not heard of many (if any) failures either. Cleaning while doing each tire swap would be a recommendation. Or maybe fewer wheelies and MotoX jumping?

https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/ujoint/uj.html

But back to replacing, A parts swap would be easy. I'm of the mind that new would leave me more confident than a used one of unknown condition.

 

[RossKean]

I would also have more confidence in a new part but for local availability, free shipping and one tenth the price, I would give it a try unless it came off a 100,000+ mile bike. Even neglected, these things will not fail in a catastrophic fashion.

 

[JamesK]

I would also have more confidence in a new part but for local availability, free shipping and one tenth the price, I would give it a try unless it came off a 100,000+ mile bike. Even neglected, these things will not fail in a catastrophic fashion.

Thanks for the link Ross and the info and comments Bounce.

I've checked into the U-joint you posted Ross and it comes off a 91,000 km ex-police bike, so a bike that was threshed by cops who don't care about the bike since it's not theirs and another owner who bought the bike after the police retired it as around 60,000 km I believe.

It is cheap so I might get it anyway but it's likely that this U-joint is only marginally better than mine in terms of "sloppiness". I understand that these don't really fail just because they are a little more loose but it is getting annoying having that slap in the drive line.

I think given that I already have my old/original U-joint I might try to pull it apart just to see if it's easy enough/doable since I don't have a press tool and would try to use a G-clamp make-shift jig like in the tutorial I found.

 

[FJRay]

Here is a real long shot. I have a near new FJR u-joint that is free to you. This is the long shot. I just sold my 48 Ford to a guy that is shipping it to Sydney. I could put it in the car with a note to contact you when it arrives. I have no idea how long this would take and I would have to find it somewhere in my shop.

 

[JamesK]

Here is a real long shot. I have a near new FJR u-joint that is free to you. This is the long shot. I just sold my 48 Ford to a guy that is shipping it to Sydney. I could put it in the car with a note to contact you when it arrives. I have no idea how long this would take and I would have to find it somewhere in my shop.

FJRay, thanks for the kind offer.

The problem with my U-join is more of an annoyance than a mission critical issue so I am happy to wait for it to arrive.

I will PM you my contact info.

Thanks again

 

[RossKean]

Any luck with it? Wondering if the replacement U-joint was good or if the problem was possibly related to wear in the rear drive. The thread on re-shimming was interesting...

 

[FJRay]

Any luck with it? Wondering if the replacement U-joint was good or if the problem was possibly related to wear in the rear drive. The thread on re-shimming was interesting...

It will be a while. The replacement part is in the glove box of a 48 Ford being shipped to Sydney. Supposedly takes 26 days plus customs. Free freight takes time.

 

[JamesK]

Any luck with it? Wondering if the replacement U-joint was good or if the problem was possibly related to wear in the rear drive. The thread on re-shimming was interesting...

It will be a while. The replacement part is in the glove box of a 48 Ford being shipped to Sydney. Supposedly takes 26 days plus customs. Free freight takes time.

Thanks again for sending through the U-joint FJRay, I'm eagerly awaiting to install it, once I get my hands on it

 

[chrisz]

Condition of the drive-line cush?

 

[JamesK]

Condition of the drive-line cush?

Good question, however, since the symptoms are the same with both sets of rims I'm less likely to blame the cush rubbers. I will however check them out too at some point, thanks.