U-Joint Spark Plug Socket

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I don't see why it would....I haven't found the need for a universal joint when changing plugs.

The bigger issue I've seen is the plug falling out...not angle of access. I use a small chunk of butyl rubber on the end of the socket and it always comes out or stays put when I'm putting a fresh one in.

 
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I would think a U-joint would make it harder. The plugs are a straight shot with the tank up.

The only issue with the FJR plugs is depth, so whatever spark-plug socket you choose should work fine. The key is in the extension you're using is long enough (6"+) and has a solid fit on the socket. Otherwise, you'll pull the extension out but leave the socket in the hole.

 
Some spark plug sockets will not fit into the sparkplug well due to the wall thickness of the socket. The best tool is the spark plug wrench that came with the bike, it fits.

 
Some spark plug sockets will not fit into the sparkplug well due to the wall thickness of the socket. The best tool is the spark plug wrench that came with the bike, it fits.

+1. One of those rare cases where the tools supplied actually work better.

 
Some spark plug sockets will not fit into the sparkplug well due to the wall thickness of the socket.
Had the same problem recently. Tried a regular deep wall socket the same size and it went. Ended up taking the foam sleeve (that grips the spark plug) out of the spark plug socket and stuffed it into the deep wall socket and used that combination to change plugs.

 
FWIW-I usually break the spark plug free with a socket. I then use a 3/8 inch (I believe that's the diameter) fuel line hose to retrieve the spark plug from the recess. Same for putting in the new plug. I use the same hose method to position and start the threads on the new plug. I then tighten the spark plug with the socket to the appropriate torque.

 
You hoser!!!

(I do the same thing)

But it isn't the head that restricts those thin wall sockets. It's actually the herniated (big American bulges) valve cover gasket that fetches things up. I know because when I had the valve cover of last valve check the same socket I'd been swearing at fit in there easy as you please... ;)

 
FWIW-I usually break the spark plug free with a socket. I then use a 3/8 inch (I believe that's the diameter) fuel line hose to retrieve the spark plug from the recess. Same for putting in the new plug. I use the same hose method to position and start the threads on the new plug. I then tighten the spark plug with the socket to the appropriate torque.
...and to add to this idea, a short piece of wooden dowel in the hose keeps it straight when you're trying to find the hole. ;)

--G

 
My socket wrench actually has a swivel head and I found it useful in removal. Not sure why the swivel socket would offer any additional advantages.

Extension length is key.

 
FWIW-I usually break the spark plug free with a socket. I then use a 3/8 inch (I believe that's the diameter) fuel line hose to retrieve the spark plug from the recess. Same for putting in the new plug. I use the same hose method to position and start the threads on the new plug. I then tighten the spark plug with the socket to the appropriate torque.
...and to add to this idea, a short piece of wooden dowel in the hose keeps it straight when you're trying to find the hole. ;)

--G
Doesn't that hurt?

:p

 
After having a plug socket stay behind during my first plug change, I picked up one of these:

192335533_c6DNh-O.jpg


 
FWIW-I usually break the spark plug free with a socket. I then use a 3/8 inch (I believe that's the diameter) fuel line hose to retrieve the spark plug from the recess. Same for putting in the new plug. I use the same hose method to position and start the threads on the new plug. I then tighten the spark plug with the socket to the appropriate torque.
...and to add to this idea, a short piece of wooden dowel in the hose keeps it straight when you're trying to find the hole. ;)

--G
Doesn't that hurt?

:p
:eek: ...not if you're careful and use the proper size dowel. :D

 
FWIW-I usually break the spark plug free with a socket. I then use a 3/8 inch (I believe that's the diameter) fuel line hose to retrieve the spark plug from the recess. Same for putting in the new plug. I use the same hose method to position and start the threads on the new plug. I then tighten the spark plug with the socket to the appropriate torque.
...and to add to this idea, a short piece of wooden dowel in the hose keeps it straight when you're trying to find the hole. ;)

--G
Doesn't that hurt?

:p
:eek: ...not if you're careful and use the proper size dowel. :D
That's what the nurse with the catheter in her hand said... :glare:

 
After having a plug socket stay behind during my first plug change, I picked up one of these:
192335533_c6DNh-O.jpg
And where might one of these be purchased?
I don't know where to buy one of those, but I have a better idea. Go to Sears and get a locking extension. With the locking extension you can securely attach any socket you want and not worry about it falling off. More versatile, I think. :D

 
Some spark plug sockets will not fit into the sparkplug well due to the wall thickness of the socket. The best tool is the spark plug wrench that came with the bike, it fits.
Absolutely agree - the bike's tool kit socket works great. Unless someone didn't get one with their bike, or they just have to have a another spark plug tool, I don't see the need for a thirdy party socket. My tool kit's socket even had a universal fitting on it - though I'm not sure I really needed it.

It is also equipped with a rubber "grippee thingee" on the inside to grab the spark plug. Works very well. The only thing I did was use a 14mm socket and rachet to use on the spark plug socket for removal.

I replaced my plugs Sunday night, and, pulling and replacing the plugs was probably these easiest part of the whole process (damn rubber caps!)

 
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