Ultimate Sport Tourer

[NovaFlyer]

"BTW, at night when it's cold.... I get in my car.... " - Pacman

I'm glad it isn't just me then ...

 

[jjsC6]

"BTW, at night when it's cold.... I get in my car.... " - Pacman
I'm glad it isn't just me then ...

I agree. I ride for fun. When it's not fun, I don't ride. Pretty simple to me.

 

[painman]

I agree. I ride for fun. When it's not fun, I do not ride. Pretty simple to me.

++1 Glad to hear there's other who agree. Painman. <><

 

[Toecutter]

I agree. I ride for fun. When it's not fun, I don't ride. Pretty simple to me.

Whenever I ride, I make it fun!

 

[Dangerous Dave]

Whenever I ride, I make it fun!

+1 B) B) B)

 

[TejasFJR]

Whenever I ride, I make it fun! 

+1 B) B) B)

Even a quick 5 minute jaunt to get my haircut is fun if I take my bike. (of course I don't tell my wife that I end up going to a place that's about 15 minutes away instead of the place around the corner)

 

[ionbeam]

When I tell my wife that I am running out to pick up a paper she knows that I may be coming home with a NY or PA paper (I live in NH, roughly near the coastal area) :erm:

Alan

BTW, it's only a problem if I don't ask her if she wants to join me 'cuse she loves to go everywhere on the bike.

 

[radman]

https://www.hi-z.com/websit07.htm

check it out.

NTC275 would rock in a Feej chassis. Literally. I think lane splitting would be out though.

 

[Mogan]

I think if I won the lottery and did it all over again, I'd do an R1LE for craziness and the BMWGT for long-distance riding. The latter has more ooomph than the FJR and adds electronic cruise.

But I have what I have and I'm not sure I'm prepared to spend that. I also have argos problems with true sport bikes. I added risers to my K12s and the ergos are fantastic. Not a long distance bike, although I suppose I could configure it as such...

 

[Mogan]

Pacman has a reasonable point, so I'm posting my own opinions based on spec comparisons of the GT and FJR, along with riding comparisons between the K12S and FJR.

So, here goes!

Engine: PUSH.

Both are wonderful powerplants. While the K engine has a bit more top end power, the FJR is no slouch. Some kinks with the K engine have been fixed with subsequent updates. Depsning on how the K engine does with longer-term reliability, the GT could take the edge here given the trouble some of us Yammy's had with tickers. Acceleration from 0-100km/hr is supposed to be 3.1 and 3.0 seconds for the GT and FJR respectively.

Suspension: Beemer

The BMW has the funky new duolever suspension and I thik it works well. Most notably the ESA can be adjusted on the fly and that really is awesome. I have the Wilburs setup (lowered) on the FJR, but ajustments must be made thoughtfully and can't compare with the ease of use on the beemer.

Brakes: Beemer

The puppies are the grippiest/best brakes I've ever tried on any bike. I took an experienced rider course last fall on the BMW and nobody could match the performance of my brakes. SS lines are also standard.

Ergos: Push

Both should be comfy for long distances and new models both sport adjustable seat and bars.

Build Quality: Push

Both seem excellent and have no specific complaints

Transmission: Beemer

The BMW has the 6-speed tranny we'd like. One downside is the clutch. Lever pressure is a pain on the BMW and I'm installing aftermarket slave and levers to reduce this. I don't know if this will be improved on the GT.

Instrumentation/controls/farkles: Beemer

The BMW has lots of goodies. Innovative ones that stand out include tire pressure monitor, electronic cruise, heated seat, and computer with more stats. Most noteworthy is the big-ass 945watt alternator. I don't know what the normal draw is for its systems, but the farkle power headroom has to be least double the FJR. This is important if you like power hungry winter gear.

Touring Range: FJR

The FJR has an extra 3/10th of a gallon although actual range may be equivalent due to slightly higher mileage on the BMW. Dry weight is equal. I give the nod to the FJR because I've seen fewer fuel cell applications on the new BMWs. The FJR has several options in that department. I have the Tanji cell and it's great.

Value: FJR

No contest. With all the goodies the BMW will be north of 21k. You get much of the BMWs bang for a lot less buck with the FJR.

Support: FJR

The small BMW dealer network continues to shrink. It's something to be aware of when planning long distance trips. Yammy dealers seem close no matter where you are. Also consider the accessibility of knowledgable resources like the folks on this site. Although there are plenty of BMW enthusiasts on the web, there is no Warchild or Warchildren. The BMW's complexity and less wrench-inclined riders make it harder to tinker it home. If you own one, you have to be friends with the service manager at your nearest dealer.

Perhaps I'll sell both my bikes and get two GTs. One for me and one for Warchild.

 

[Bounce]

When I tell my wife that I am running out to pick up a paper she knows that I may be coming home with a NY or PA paper (I live in NH, roughly near the coastal area)  :erm:

Well sure. But living in NH and riding to NY or PA is about the same as "around the corner" in Texas.

 

[Bounce]

I think if I won the lottery and did it all over again, I'd do an R1LE for craziness and the BMWGT for long-distance riding. The latter has more ooomph than the FJR and adds electronic cruise.
But I have what I have and I'm not sure I'm prepared to spend that. I also have argos problems with true sport bikes. I added risers to my K12s and the ergos are fantastic. Not a long distance bike, although I suppose I could configure it as such...

You can add electronic cruise, and heated grips for a WHOLE lot less than the difference in purchase price between an FJR and an R-GT. Under $100 for the cruise and under $50 for the grip heaters.

BTW: Thanks, Mogan, for the comparo. I was looking at various BMWs just weeks ago. And (not to push the Concours rationalization to their extreme) there's not enough that BMW brings to the table to justify the cost difference. The FJR aftermarket offers all the differences (at pennies on the dollar) for owners to pick and choose what they want (and ignore what they don't want).

From your comparo and where we differ:

- 6 speed tranny. Not everyone ("we all") want it.

- Suspension (aftermarket)

- Brakes (servo and such are not my cuppa)

Where we agree:

- Alternator output. Of all the things that the aftermarket addresses as well or better than the BMW for less cash, the alternator output is the sole thing the FJR lacks and doesn't seem to have on the horizon.

 

[yamaholic]

You know, there are things you can do to conserve more power. I thought I discussed this before, but was probably lost on the old board.

-LED tail/brake bulbs. I suggest adding more LED braking lights if you do this for safety reasons.

You save 16 watts at cruise (taillight) and another 42 watts during braking (that's 58 watts during braking).

-LED gauge lights. Not much saved, but at 1.4watts a piece...you are looking at about 8 watts saved here.

-Put a switch on your front running lights. Off when you really need the extra power during the day . On at night for safety. 16 watts saved with them off.

-Thermostat! Use them on grips and heated gear. Get the kind that DOES NOT have a resister (such as the heat-troller).

-Wire one high beam to turn off when HID's are turned on.

-Efficient heated clothing. Gerbing is NOT efficient. Widder is. Why suck up juice unnecessarily.

So that's:

42 watts braking

8 watts guages

16 watts front running lights

60 watts hih beam

_________________

126 watts total during braking

84 watts cruising

Given that a spare 100-120watts are available, adding another 84 watts will bring you up to near 200watts spare

I know what you're going to say....(turn whine voice on) "Why couldn't Yamaha give us more wattage?". Well..design changes cost money. They would need to redesign the entire engine case to fit a larger alternator. To strike that blend between sport and touring, compromises need to be made.

My vote is to think about ways to make it more efficient. Overcoming one obstacle is a lot easier and cheaper than investing in an entirely new bike (with a new set of problems to deal with).

 

[Groo]

-Efficient heated clothing. Gerbing is NOT efficient. Widder is. Why suck up juice unnecessarily.

Not to derail this thread totally, but could you expand on this a bit more, since I'm considering adding heated clothing at some point in the future. How big of a difference is there between Gerbing and Widder?

 

[snikr]

Suggestions for the ultimate replacement?

Non-electrical clothing? My gear seems pretty cozy, but I haven't ridden sub-freezing yet. At that point, around here, there would be ice on the roads.

If you are riding with heated gear and something goes out, what then? Hypothermia? And all those cords. Pass. Do the snowmobile dudes plug in?

....It's still a slam dunk for me. The FJR. No question.

Some snowmobilers plug in a heated face shield on their helmets. Other than that all we have is heated hand and thumb warmers. Here in Vermont when it gets cold enough for heated gear that's when the snow/sand/salt comes and I'm NOT riding my FJR it that slop.

Tom

 

[Ignacio]

Not to derail this thread totally, but could you expand on this a bit more, since I'm considering adding heated clothing at some point in the future.  How big of a difference is there between Gerbing and Widder?

Yes, that is an attempt to derail the thread. Please start another thread on the subject if the answer "More than enough to pursue Widders" doesn't do it for 'ya. Or do some searching on "Widder" and "Gerbing" from the beginning of this forum.

This thread is about discussion of the BMW and FJR.

Thx - The Management

 

[Jabba]

What is the alternator output of the FJR???

 

[Sherman]

https://www.hi-z.com/websit07.htm

check it out.

Or check this out.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/turboalt.php

You could stick these inside the lower cowls and pop em out as needed.

Perhaps put a small Yamaha APU on the luggage rack like the airlines do.

Bruce

 

[ionbeam]

What is the alternator output of the FJR???

14 V/490 W at 5,000 rpm

No-load regulated voltage 14.1 ~ 14.9 V

Rectifier capacity 35 A

Battery voltage/capacity 12 V/12 AH (amp/hour)

Ten hour charge rate amperage 1.2 A

Indicator light (voltage; wattage & quantity)

Neutral indicator light 14 V 1.12 W x 1

Turn signal indicator light 14 V 1.4 W x 2

Oil level warning light 14 V 1.12 W x 1

High beam indicator light 14 V 1.12 W x 1

Engine trouble warning light 14 V 1.12 W x 1

Headlight 12 V 60 W/55 W x 2

Auxiliary light 12 V 5 W x 2

Tail/brake light 12 V 5 W/21 W x 2

Turn signal light 12 V 21 W x 4

Meter light 14 V 1.12 W x 1

Starter

Amperage 180 A

Starter Relay Coil resistance 4.18 ~ 4.62 ohms

Horn

Max. amperage 3 A

Performance 105 ~ 113 db/2 m

Coil resistance 1.15 ~ 1.25 ohms

Turn signal relay

Turn signal blinking frequency 75 ~ 95 cycles/min.

Wattage 21 W x 2 + 3.4 W

Fuel pump

maximum amperage 5.5 A

 

[ionbeam]

Admin:

This thread is titled Ultimate Sport Tourer and then the content immediately goes:

I'm very frustrated with the accessory power situation on the FJR....The voltmeter said, "Oh no you don't!"...I'd like the flexibility to ride at night (with HIDs) when it's cold (with full electric clothing)....The FJR just won't do it....Suggestions for the ultimate replacement?

The vast majority of the replies have been electrical and not Ultimate Sport Tourer, perhaps this needs to be restarted or relocated under a more appropriate heading. Just a thought