Ummmmm... Don't Be Like Warchild.....

[Warchild]

Care to comment on the 'switch' to Prestone; previous recommendations (a la ******* article), recommended the Dexcool from Havoline. I'm thinking it doesn't much matter, but just asking. I have used both (myself) and have never had problems with either.

It was on sale.

I have used both myself - even topping off one with the other - and have never had a problem. Lot's of dramatic intardweb stories on how The Earth Will End by mixing the two, however. Good reading if one is into conspiracy theories.

 

[radman]

Actually, Dexcool is weird ****, best left on the shelf, where it works perfectly.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

The stuff just doesn't seem to breakdown IMHO???

I am of that same opinion... the only time a chemical breakdown would occur is if there was a second chemical introduced into the propylene glycol solution... So... I dunno....

WC, did you mean "ethylene glycol"?

As to 'breakdown', length of service, etc.: Large OTR fleets often filter, treat with ph modifiers, and 'sweeten' the coolant in all their rigs -- still keeping the life-long coolant.

Also, I just had a discussion with a NAPA guy who said that the pre-mix coolant is taking over. I questioned him about it and he said that by the time you buy the distilled water and do the mixing, you come-out ahead by just buying the pre-mixed stuff.

 

[Warchild]

WC, did you mean "ethylene glycol"?

Truthfully, yes, but propylene glycol antifreeze is often used and labeled as "non-toxic antifreeze". However, yes, the ethylene glycol version is The **** to have.

Also, I just had a discussion with a NAPA guy who said that the pre-mix coolant is taking over. I questioned him about it and he said that by the time you buy the distilled water and do the mixing, you come-out ahead by just buying the pre-mixed stuff.

I don't think that's quite the case, when you can get a gallon of distilled water for less than a buck. However, all that is not why I don't buy the pre-mixed stuff.

The reason is: when performing the FJR Blow-Job, and you are done with the multiple-flushing game using pure distilled water, you will always - always - have some amount residual distilled water remaining in the engine passages, etc. So (and I haven't updated that FJRTech article yet with the following information), when you are all done with the flush-blow-refill exercise, you simply pour in pure antifreeze in the amount of 1/2 the total capacity of the system (~1.95 quarts for my 2003 bike), and whatever amount of distilled water it takes to top it off, bleed the system, etc, than that's what it takes. End result: a system with 50/50 coolant in it.

 

[Bungie]

Actually, Dexcool is weird ****, best left on the shelf, where it works perfectly.

Don't get me started on Dexcool.

I bought my 97 Blazer off lease only to find somebody topped up the rad with regular antifreeze. The chemical reaction with the Dexcool was interesting to say the least. Giving the coolant the consistency of something resembling runny pudding. Many flushes later it getting close to normal. The first flush built up so much pressure it popped one of freeze plugs out!

 

[Lake Powell]

We could start up this cat fight;

I THINK "WATER WETTER" WORKS LIKE:________________

Last time it was fun fight to watch.......

I think it was "Jestrel"? who took on everybody?

 

[Huck Fonda]

Have you run the old stuff through a hydrometer to compare SG to a new 50/50 mix?

 

[Warchild]

Have you run the old stuff through a hydrometer to compare SG to a new 50/50 mix?

No, I have not..... good idea. Will do that.

Suspect this 31K-old coolant no longer has its optimal properties.

 

[Khunajawdge]

Yep, been down this road many a time in the past few decades....

Ummm? Not to hijack this coolant thread but, after 31,000 "miles of smiles" on the Hyabusa K8, how's that drive chain and sprocket system holding out?

 

[Warchild]

I must admit, I never, EVER went 31,000 miles on a single chain/sprocket set. Ever. But I did here.

Obviously, and undoubtedly, the Pro Oiler was the fundamental reason for this longevity. Because the Hayabusa saw a lot of, ah, performance-oriented

use this year in the blistering hot desert, I kept the flow level a tad high.

Amazingly, I never had to adjust the chain once the entire time, with the exception of the adjustment it received during each of its eight (8) rear tire changes.

Knowing the chain just *had* to be neat the end of it's service life, I took the Busa out on the Player during Gerlachfest this past September. The proved to be it's undoing... the 600-mile ride home after Gerlach was the ball game for it... a fresh nickel-plated DID ZVM530II adorns the bike now. And new OEM sprockets.

Playa dust can be brutal on chains.... :blink:

 

[Khunajawdge]

Dale wrote;

>Obviously, and undoubtedly, the Pro Oiler was the fundamental reason for this longevity. Because the Hayabusa saw a lot of, ah, performance-oriented use this year in the blistering hot desert, I kept the flow level a tad high.>

Does "anybody" make a rear pumkin' for a 190 mph motorcycle that is used in the Nevada Desert for endurance riding?

 

[Bounce]

what happen to your Havoline DexCool recommendations of the past? Is it the bike requirements, a change in preference, or just an availability thing?

 

[Brodie]

what happen to your Havoline DexCool recommendations of the past? Is it the bike requirements, a change in preference, or just an availability thing?

Warchild

I'm curious about the silicates in the automotive coolants that are supposedly detrimental to the mechanical seal on our bikes water pump. I would think Yamacool or Hondacool would be the way to go as they are formulated silicate free.

Any comments?

Brodie

 

[Warchild]

I'm curious about the silicates in the automotive coolants that are supposedly detrimental to the mechanical seal on our bikes water pump. I would think Yamacool or Hondacool would be the way to go as they are formulated silicate free.

Absolutely correct.

You do not want to used coolant containing these minerals, for exactly the reasons you suggest. It was thought that silicates (in particular) were the culprit in the significant number of water pump seal failures in many Honda V-4's back in the 90's (VFR's, ST1100, etc)

This current version of Prestone you see in the photo above is silicate-free, phosphate-free, boric-free and nitride-free.

 

[Old Michael]

This current version of Prestone you see in the photo above is silicate-free, phosphate-free, boric-free and nitride-free.

Well HELL! Like light beer then. Not even worth drinking.

 

[madmike2]

Y'know....getting completely off topic...and since Bustanut didn't catch it...

I read this thread's title tonight....

Ummmmm... Don't Be Like Warchild.....

....and I thought to myself, "No S#!T, Sherlock! One of him is enough for this world...." :lol:

I could have left it well enough alone, but first, it's me,, and second....

.....[SIZE=12pt]It's Friday!!![/SIZE] :rofl: