Updates from new owner with fuel smell and non-starting bike

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RiverDog

Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2025
Messages
19
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Location
St Augustine, FL
Hi all, I received a ton of support and great suggestions on this forum and I wanted to report back after having the bike looked at and receiving info about the issues. I apologize I didn’t follow up with a video or the results of testing voltages, etc. I decided to call a recommended local mobile tech, who was just here and diagnosed the problems. He was amazing, and I will absolutely use him going forward if necessary, but I digress.

The fuel smell:
It turns out whomever had the fuel pump out last either didn’t reinstall it properly or used the old O ring when they put it back in. There’s fuel leaking out from under the pump. I was already told it needed a new pump so I have ordered one (see all parts ordered below).

Bike not starting:
Looks like the brand new battery I bought has prob been sitting a while and doesn’t have the cranking amps to turn the starter over. It reads 12V at rest but when trying to start the bike it drops to 8V. The tech started the bike with a mobile jumper box and even when running he said the voltage was a little lower than he’d like to see. I’m going to take the battery back and buy a replacement but only after I make them load test it. They told me when I bought it that once installed, it’s considered used and they won’t take it back; however, the tech that came out used to actually work at that shop and knows the parts manager. He is going to call said manager and give his perspective after testing the battery in the hopes that they’ll make an exception and take it back. That’s over and above my expectations!

The tech was also very cool in letting me order the parts to save some money and he will come back and install them. He even gave me a break on the diagnostic fee. If anyone is in NE FL and looking for a GREAT mobile tech let me know and I’ll share his info.

Parts ordered:
- Fuel pump
- Fuel pump O ring
- Starter relay (relay is still good but tech said it’s a common failure, especially after battery issues so I’m replacing it)
- 4 NGK spark plugs

There are also some hoses above the engine that are worn (and maybe even damaged by the leaking fuel) that the tech will replace from his stock when he returns.

Thank you all so much for trying to assist me. I sincerely apologize for creating multiple threads about different issues and causing confusion. You folks are super helpful and kind, and I appreciate all your assistance from the bottom of my heart. I’ll report back when she’s healthy. :)
 
Don't throw that old, but working, relay away. Squirrel it away on a shelf.
I bought a FJR with a replaced (cheap?) starter relay and it quit shortly after I got the bike running. It stuck on, in fact. I had to disconnect the battery cable. I let the engine run while I did that' to save the starter. (The starter won't spin while the engine is running.) The key nor the kill switch would stop it from cranking once it stuck on. Luckily the plastics were still off, and I had access.
I swapped in a 20 year old OEM part and it's been fine since.
The moral of the story is: Don't buy unbranded parts that can leave you stranded. (Or burn up your starter.)
 
Don't throw that old, but working, relay away. Squirrel it away on a shelf.
I bought a FJR with a replaced starter relay and it quit shortly after I got the bike running. It stuck on, in fact. I had to disconnect the battery cable. I let the engine run while I did that to save the starter. Luckily the plastics were still off, and I had access.
I swapped in a 20 year old OEM part and it's been fine since.
The moral of the story is: Don't buy unbranded parts that can leave you stranded. (Or burn up your starter.)
Noted. Thank you for the tip!
 
Interesting. In my experience with 21 different FJRs over the years and 700k miles on them.........

- Fuel pump O-rings don't go bad. Or should I say 'rarely' do. I have an '04 FJR with 212k miles on it's original. No way an '18 should be bad. Unless.... the idiots that worked on it pinched it or damaged it somehow.

- Starter relays don't go bad either. I've never replaced one.

- Fuel pump - ouch! Pricey bastards. I would have looked for a used on ebay. I've never had one fail on any of my FJRs. That being said, I've had to replace two on project FJRs I bought where they sat for extended period of time and tank and fuel pumps rusted.

What is 'voltage a little lower than he would like' with the bike running. That is useless information! I though by now we had you trained better than that! What, specifically is it reading? I can't remember, you DO have a voltmeter, don't you?

Low voltage (under 9v or so) while turning over can also be a bad starter but with an '18 I would think that is not the problem.

I am glad you got it resolved. I am glad you got a good mobile tech. But....... following some of the collective's simple advice that we had given you would have resolved all this days ago! For cheap!
 
Interesting. In my experience with 21 different FJRs over the years and 700k miles on them.........

- Fuel pump O-rings don't go bad. Or should I say 'rarely' do. I have an '04 FJR with 212k miles on it's original. No way an '18 should be bad. Unless.... the idiots that worked on it pinched it or damaged it somehow.

- Starter relays don't go bad either. I've never replaced one.

- Fuel pump - ouch! Pricey bastards. I would have looked for a used on ebay. I've never had one fail on any of my FJRs. That being said, I've had to replace two on project FJRs I bought where they sat for extended period of time and tank and fuel pumps rusted.

What is 'voltage a little lower than he would like' with the bike running. That is useless information! I though by now we had you trained better than that! What, specifically is it reading? I can't remember, you DO have a voltmeter, don't you?

Low voltage (under 9v or so) while turning over can also be a bad starter but with an '18 I would think that is not the problem.

I am glad you got it resolved. I am glad you got a good mobile tech. But....... following some of the collective's simple advice that we had given you would have resolved all this days ago! For cheap!
All I can say is that it's leaking where the pump is attached. I think the previous shop didn't reinstall it properly; maybe because the PO wanted to save money. Doesn't surprise me after today: the tech looked at the service report where they supposedly "serviced" the fuel injectors and the looked at the injectors and said they didn't look like they'd been touched and definitely not replaced.

This guy won't install anything but a new, OEM pump and I definitely don't have the patience to do it myself, so it is what it is. I only paid $6500 for a 2018 with ~17k miles so I don't mind spending money to make sure it's done right. I have a trip coming up in March and I don't want any mechanical issues.

I don't know where/how he was testing when he got the bike running. All I know is the meter showed 14.xxV and he said it should be somewhere between 14V and I believe 20V? Sorry I can't tell you more about that.
 
Save the old pump too. People often need the plastic shell if they break something.
Report back with a voltage reading with the new battery (engine running at idle and at elevated rpm).
Glad that it was the battery, although you still can't rule out the R/R or stator until you have a voltage while running.
(Doesn't surprise me at all. ALWAYS the first thing to check if it isn't turning over.)

(I think I mentioned fuel hose connection or weeping at the fuel pump flange...)

What hoses above the engine? IF they are the ones that are part of the PAIR system, you can delete the whole network if you want. (Need to install block-off plates) Alternatively, I'm sure there are lots of folks who have done so and have their old system just hanging around. (Fuel hose is the only other one...)
 
I don't know where/how he was testing when he got the bike running. All I know is the meter showed 14.xxV and he said it should be somewhere between 14V and I believe 20V? Sorry I can't tell you more about that.

That sounds good. Every FJR I have had that is in proper condition has been between 14.1 and 14.3 volts depending on temperature and whether at idle or revving.
 
Anything over 14V is OK. Above the AGM float and enough to feed a little back in as needed. Anything much over 14.5V isn't doing the battery any favors - overcharge territory and will harm the battery over time. 20V at the battery is way too high! (I assume this is measured at the battery terminals and not AC off the stator. DCV at the terminals will come up a bit more with higher rpm and with a fully charged battery - also depends on load.)
 
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