Upgrading to a Valentine 1?

[Bionic Pelvis]

I contemplated posting this in "Never-ending, Pointless, Recurring Threads" but let's try it here first, just for fun

My Adaptiv TPX met an untimely demise during the IBR - it's waterproof and has held up to some pretty wretched conditions, but the only significant rain I encountered this year happened to be in Virginia, meaning the unit was hastily removed and shoved into my not-quite-zipped pocket. But looking on the bright side, it means I have and excuse to upgrade to the unit that successfully informed Andy Mackey that we were gaining on a nice officer at a fairly brisk clip during this year's SPANK while mine left me twisting (literally).

So, here's where you come in:

Is the Valentine still the best thing going?

What all goodies are you using with your Valentine? Remote display, iPhone adapter, etc?

How have you mounted it on your FJR?

How do you keep it dry?

Any other suggestions? Anything you'd do/get/set up differently?

Pictures would be greatly appreciated - TIA!

 

[Ignacio]

One should aspire to not have something moved to NEPRT. If you're trying to post there to begin with....there's your answer right there. As it is...other than perhaps the generic "best" question that's never ever going to be an item of concensus...the other questions are totally not NEPRTly.

What all goodies are you using with your Valentine? Remote display, iPhone adapter, etc?

I run the piece with the a headphone plug-in. I believe that's an "optional" item that really isn't that optional to us LD folks...so factor that $50'ish item into your purchase considerations. While I do have the second optional remote display item--I haven't used it as I like to run my main detector body where I can see it anyway.

How have you mounted it on your FJR?

I used to run it on a magnetic RAM mount by my right hand (I think right of sightline center works for the main V1 unit better than left of center). However, with the '13 IBR I moved it to an enclosed structure on the dash unit I also added for that IBR...both of which made by N/Line (aka Brydenscot). I found that even during the first day of rain that under the windshield area it was sufficiently protected to remain dry. It was also a secure enclosure that I now leave the V1 permanently on my bike (however if you enter those few provinces or one state that radar detectors are an issue....you may want to at least put duct tape over it after you unplug it...or remove it)

How do you keep it dry?

As mentioned the unit I bought was the N-Line unit. I think he's getting out of the business...so finding a spare one might be a bit tricky.

Any other suggestions? Anything you'd do/get/set up differently?

I used to use a tupperware thing with a RAM mount....it was pretty good. You have a PM.

 

[Bounce]

I move mine between my car and bike.

On the bike I have remote audio that is plumbed into my GPS and music via a MixIt2.

On the car I have it mounted below the mirror with this:

https://www.fjr-tips.org/sti/v1/v1.html

After the DIY I went to the Blendmount for a more rigid installation:

https://www.blendmount.com

and a thin remote display I got on eBay mounted here:

https://www.fjr-tips.org/sti/v1-r-display/v1-r-display.html

 

[Auburn]

My V1 is similarly mounted using the N/Line shelf/box but it is powered and connected to my J&M comm system so I get the chirp in my left ear (mono) no matter what else is playing in the system.

You need the J&M cable only for the V1 (you can see the cable and the bottom half of the N/Line holder for the V1 in the center), it provides the power and communication to get the sound to your helmet.

Works great

 

[Justin]

$5 plastic container from the "Container Store". Remote audio unit mounted under shelf.

And yes, V1 is the way to go. Once you use a V1 you'll never go back to anything else. There are other great detectors available, but once you get used to the directional arrows and bogey counter, I can't imagine not having them.

 

[puppychow]

Legal speeding waterproof box. Remote display wrapped and taped in cut to fit Ziplock baggie. Remote Audio unit feeds Amplirider input and mixes in with Sat Radio and GPS. Need to find a solution or a RenoJohn/WC style **** box for the remote audio unit. Haven't gotten around to it yet.

If you have a dash shelf, you have a lot more options and flexibility.

 

[Tanker]

I have mine mounted in the legal speeding enclosure from a ram mount attached to my left mirror hole on my 03'. Very weatherproof, but not easily accessible if you want to adjust/change settings on the V1. I usually don't need to. Only to remove for occasional jaunts into Canada or the hotel in the evenings.

https://www.legalspeeding.com/radarbox.htm

I have been using the "H.A.R.D." head's up display in my helmet from Legal Speeding also. The new version turns off on its own every 4 hours on a timer. If after 4 hours you wish to leave the receiver on you just hit the on-off switch again when the receiver gives a shut down flash sequence.

https://www.legalspeeding.com/HARD-System.htm

i just purchased the V1Le for my Iphone 4S which I have not added yet. Looks like it should work pretty slick but I have no real world feedback for you on this. I'm hoping someone else here does.

I have my IPhone attached to a "Rambone" in a waterproof enclosure from Ultimate Add-Ons. Slick unit that is virtually waterproof and allows access to all phone funcitons and is very visible for me as it sits above my tank bag and I still have full view of my gauges. I can even keep the phone charged while in the mount.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ultimate-Motorcycle-Powered-Battery-Waterproof/dp/B0052T8OOS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ce_1

 

[Bionic Pelvis]

Wow - this hasn't made my mounting options easier at all!!

The Legal Speeding enclosure looks spiffy, but kinda big - I'll have to take a few measurements (Maybe it's time to upgrade to a bigger dash too...) Of course the $5 Tupperware looks just as functional, so it looks like finding a waterproofing option won't be too tough. I've seen a few people on other bikes mount the unit slung under the front fairing between the forks, but it seems like after it was mounted in a seriously waterproof container (being way more in harm's way that on a dash) you'd have a lot of bulk to deal with.

Jerry White stopped in this morning and I chatted with him about it too; seems that the audio is a little more of an issue on this one than the TPX. The TPX was super loud with a bright remote alert, so I didn't have anything wired into my audio. It seems that everyone has the Valentine wired in for audio, so that'll definitely be another aspect to look at. I'm using the Sena SM10 with great results, but it gets complicated wiring more than a few audio inputs together. I'm using the SMH10 Bluetooth dongle at the moment, and it sounds like the MixIt2 might get thrown back into the mix before it's all said and done. Maybe wiring into the iPhone display would be a good solution, but I can't imagine it's a good rally solution if I'm sucking down the battery all the time.

On that note, I'm using this iPhone case: https://www.lifeproof.com/en/iphone/ My phone is mounted off my dash so it's fairly protected behind the windscreen anyhow, but I ran it during the IBR in all kinds of weather and didn't have any problems. My only complaints with this set-up are that the Lifeproof case only works with the Apple charger & the mounting bracket doesn't allow the phone to be plugged in while it's in the mount. I think the mount could be modified to allow charging while riding, but I was worried that it would compromise the bracket's integrity too much. Looks like that case/charger setup on Amazon addresses those issues, which would make it a better rally option. Might be worth giving it a try!

Thanks for the input - keep it coming! (Oh, and Iggy - I don't think I was aspiring to end up in the NEPRT files so much as dreading ending up there. I've developed this paranoia that tells me if I'd just dug through one more page of search results before posting I would have found the exact information I was looking for. Premapostaphobia, maybe? I'll do a search on that...)

 

[Justin]

I've seen a few people on other bikes mount the unit slung under the front fairing between the forks, but it seems like after it was mounted in a seriously waterproof container (being way more in harm's way that on a dash) you'd have a lot of bulk to deal with.

You want a radar detector to be as high as possible. The lower it is, the less chance you have of catching signals over the crest of a hill etc, and there are more things the lower you go that can block radar signals.

 

[Eric L]

I have a ram mount on the mirror mount on the clutch side. on top is a flat 2x3 platform. I use the 'velcro' that holds the fastpass to the car window and a velcro strap to secure it. Its actually perfectly positioned. I route the power cord into the glovebox where it attaches to the valentine audio adapter. Then a cable from there to the seat where i plug into my earphones.

Without audio, you are gonna get a ticket.

 

[tcfjr]

I use a Garauld reservoir mount on the right (brake) side. Here's a post with full details and photos:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=122532

The V1 Remote Audio adapter sits under the driver's seat. I found a volume setting I like, and don't change it. I can use the button on the main unit to silence the alerts in commercial areas.

Unless you have a dash shelf, you can run out of mounting locations pretty quick, so I mount my SPOT I on top of the V1. Their signals do not interfere with each other, and the velcro strap provided by Garauld easily cinches both units onto the mounting plate:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/122532-garaulds-reservoir-mounted-radar-detector-bracket/?do=findComment&comment=651233

I do not have a dash shelf, so I have my goodies mounted like so:

• GXM-30 on the left/clutch reservoir
• Zumo 550 on a RAM mount on the steering nut
• V1 and SPOT I on the right/brake reservoir, with an aquarium thermometer
• Sena SM10 Bluetooth transmitter on the left handle bar. It would be great to mount this under the seat or the dash, but you need to be able to push the 'pairing' button too often to make this practical. There is no way to set the SM10 to turn on only when it sees external power, which also complicates things.
• The stereo audio jack on the Zumo mounting bracket connects to the MAIN port on the SM10
• The audio from the V1 Remote Audio adapter connects to the AUX port on the SM10
• The SM10 pairs with the SMH10 on my helmet
• My Android phone pairs with the Zumo.
• The Zumo's phone function pairs separately with the SMH10
• I can charge the SM10 using a Powerlet port on panel D, or just disconnect it and take it inside to charge
• For the rare times when I need more than two audio inputs, I built a passive (unpowered) audio mixer based on this old post:
  
  https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/103691-ab-headphone-switch-for-zumo-mp3/?do=findComment&comment=412781
  
  It doesn't provide amplification or anything, but does provide an electrically safe way to connect multiple inputs to a single output. On very long rides when I want to be able to listen to the Zumo, the V1, and a second MP3 player, I plug the Zumo into the SM10 MAIN port, all the others into the mixer, and the mixer output into the SM10 AUX port.
• This setup gives me stereo from the Zumo (XM and MP3), the ability to talk on my mobile phone (which I've used once and only once in the year I've had this), and radar alerts from the V1.

 

[Bionic Pelvis]

You want a radar detector to be as high as possible. The lower it is, the less chance you have of catching signals over the crest of a hill etc, and there are more things the lower you go that can block radar signals.

Good point - Logically I knew that, but I spend enough time trying to figure out how to mount another big thing somewhere around all of my other stuff and I begin to forget those minor details

It seems you guys tend to lean in favor of a right-side mount. My only justification for a left side or center mounting position would be ease of assimilation into my existing set-up (aka, "Laziness") but I may have to actually consider a new dash. My old TPX is being removed from the left side of the dash and my phone & SPOT are mounted up there too, so by the time I moved everything & drilled a bunch of new holes... I'll have to see what kind of new dash technology is out there for Gen1.

TCFJR: The pics don't seem to be loading on your linked pages. Probably my comp so I'll have to check back. The only pic that did load was the reservoir mounting plate, which does look compelling, and I DID just remove my MixIt2 from the same vicinity so I do have an opening... Maybe I won't need a new dash after all. And so the waffling continues

 

[travel_man]

Wendy,

As you know I don't ride a FJR but I do use a V1. I still think the V1 is the best for LD riding due to the arrows. The Escort Redline is the second choice but it does not have the arrows. It is nice to know when a nice officers is coming up behind you and you need to "move over" for him. It is also nice at night to know when you have passed a nice officer who may be stuck in the median. I see the arrow in front, on the side and then behind when I have passed them.

There is some programming you can to do to a V1 to increase its range which helps with off axis radar.

I use my V1 as a LEO locator in case I need some help cause a wing not go to fast.

 

[101stpathfinder]

I use my V1 as a LEO locator in case I need some help cause a wing not go to fast.

Greg, You can only fly that by those that have not ridden with you.

 

[Justin]

It seems you guys tend to lean in favor of a right-side mount. My only justification for a left side or center mounting position would be ease of assimilation into my existing set-up (aka, "Laziness") but I may have to actually consider a new dash. My old TPX is being removed from the left side of the dash and my phone & SPOT are mounted up there too, so by the time I moved everything & drilled a bunch of new holes... I'll have to see what kind of new dash technology is out there for Gen1.

Just to make things more complicated, Valentine recommends mounting the V1 as far forward as possible, and dead center. That allows better reception from the rear antenna. And, there is really nothing out there at all now as far as a know for Gen1 or others. I was lucky and scored an old new in the box N/Line. I recall recently seeing somewhere that N/Line is not going to be making them anymore, even for the newer gens.

 

[Bionic Pelvis]

I'll have to see what kind of new dash technology is out there for Gen1.

... there is really nothing out there at all now as far as a know for Gen1 or others.

Yep, that's pretty much what I'm finding, which means I'll either have to make do with a few extraneous holes in my current dash, fab something up, or make due with a reservoir mount. Who would have thought that people would stop fabbing up custom parts with a tiny demand within a bike-specific market for an 8-year-old (+/-) model? Just my luck!

On the plus side, I am about to become the proud owner of a gently used V1 so before too long I'll be able to waffle about mounting options with a unit in-hand.

 

[101stpathfinder]

Wendy,

Don't know if you would ever consider this, but there is a FARKLEBAR. Saw them in Denver during the IBA International. He said he had custom brackets for the FJRs.

Just a thought...

 

[Bounce]

Looks like I'll keep (and mod if needed) my current Gen 1 N-Line.

 

[Auburn]

I'll have to see what kind of new dash technology is out there for Gen1.

... there is really nothing out there at all now as far as a know for Gen1 or others.

Yep, that's pretty much what I'm finding, which means I'll either have to make do with a few extraneous holes in my current dash, fab something up, or make due with a reservoir mount. Who would have thought that people would stop fabbing up custom parts with a tiny demand within a bike-specific market for an 8-year-old (+/-) model? Just my luck!

On the plus side, I am about to become the proud owner of a gently used V1 so before too long I'll be able to waffle about mounting options with a unit in-hand.

You could also get some velcro strips and use that to hold the V1 to the shelf. That was how I used to hold it in place until I got the N/Line box for it.