USA Gen I Ignition Switch Failure

[adyingbreed]

The bolts are M8 x 25. The new switch comes with new security bolts. They are to be tightened until the top hex snaps off the rest of the bolt.

I still have them because I replaced them with Allen head cap screws.

Rather than drilling them out, I used a Dremel tool to cut a slot in the round top that's left behind and wound them out with a straight bladed screwdriver.

Edit: I should add that the first time the switch failed I was on a trip when it died. My short-term solution to get home was to swap the two blue wires for the red / brown pair. The light gauge blue ones run the computer, the heavier gauge pair feed everything else, but the internal contacts are identical. After cleaning the contacts as best as possible, unsoldering and swapping the wires around got me rolling again and bought time to get a new switch.

The fact you used a dremel may make things easier but I still need to get myself a socket for removing the top triple lol.

I very much would like to not have to rekey

 

[adyingbreed]

Well shoot. Ignorance is bliss. Now that I've read through the "ancient thread" and understand better how the switch works, maybe my switch is not as good as I had thought. Probably not cold solder joints, but heat related disconnect.
I presume the new switch will retrofit to gen 1?

The recall switch indeed does fit. As far as I know the smaller gauge wires have a different color connector for the smaller wires.

 

[adyingbreed]

adyingbreed

The original switch only had one pathway through the switch for the current to travel. Construction for the switch consists of a pair of flat contacts on the circuit board, which is attached to the wires, and spherical contacts on a spring loaded floating copper plate attached to a shaft turned by the key. With a 50 AMP main fuse, this switch will get hot with resistance; so hot that either:

1. The solder connection will melt sufficiently to allow the wire to pop off the circuit board.
2. The plastic carrier retaining the spring loaded floating copper plate will deform causing the plate to stick askew as the ignition key is rotated.

If the red wire detaches from the switch, then you are dead on the side of the road. If the plastic carrier is deformed, then multiple attempts at turning off and on with the key may allow it to contact the circuit properly. either way your OEM ignition switch is in a failure mode, and is unreliable.

Your best bet is to obtain a new ignition switch from your Yamaha dealer. This switch was redesigned with two pathways for the current to flow; thereby reducing the amount of resistance/heat in the switch. They will be happy to install it for you – for a price, or you can do it yourself if you are handy with some basic tools. Fitting the tumblers from your OEM ignition switch is quite possible. If you are uncomfortable doing that yourself, then take both ignition switches and keys to a competent locksmith and have them do it. Do what you have to so there is only 1 key for the bike.

Check out this ancient thread – The Recall Ignition Switch - What's new about it? – to see the failure modes with the OEM switch, and how Yamaha fixed the issue with the redesign. You can only buy the redesigned switch from your Yamaha dealer. If you try to get one from e-Bay you have to have a really good look at the pigtail coming from the Ignition switch for that extra white wire, as well as that attached yellow tag.

Good luck with it!

Brodie

It WAS the red wire.

That's what made it easy following yours and others posts on bypassing/hotwiring.

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Also, for peace of mind, I am going to install your relay, I'm sure I can google-fu the link but if you have it avail for the parts list, it would be GREATLY appreciated.

Also, it's very reassuring to know you are still part of the forum!


THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR CONTRIBUTIONS!

 

[norcal rider]

I know the part numbers are different so cross reference those.

I haven't even bought the recall part but know they are different and sold at different prices.

Cross reference? What do you mean by that? The part numbers are different between gen 1 and 2.
What I still would like to know is how do I know if I'm getting the upgraded ignition switch when I order? Do I order a Gen 1? A Gen2?
I realize this is wandering off the original post. Sorry 'bout that.
Thanks for any help.

 

[Niehart]

Most of the time Yamaha will supersede to the latest part #.

"03" switch 5JW-82501-10
"05" switch 5JW-82501-20

-20 Usually means the part is upgrader or, but not in this case, it's a different color.

Go to parts zilla or any of those folks and look up your year, model and type. California has their own model. The switch is under:
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2004/fjr1300-fjr1300sc/electrical-2
Hope this helps.

 

[Mihalis fjr]

It WAS the red wire.

That's what made it easy following yours and others posts on bypassing/hotwiring.

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Also, for peace of mind, I am going to install your relay, I'm sure I can google-fu the link but if you have it avail for the parts list, it would be GREATLY appreciated.

Also, it's very reassuring to know you are still part of the forum!


THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR CONTRIBUTIONS!

A question:Are there some farkles on your bike like additional lights etc,that you installed and wired from the switch,red wire etc,and not directly from the battery terminals?

 

[adyingbreed]

Cross reference? What do you mean by that? The part numbers are different between gen 1 and 2.
What I still would like to know is how do I know if I'm getting the upgraded ignition switch when I order? Do I order a Gen 1? A Gen2?
I realize this is wandering off the original post. Sorry 'bout that.
Thanks for any help.

Make sure you are getting the recall upgraded 2nd gen part and not the original 2nd gen part. Gen I parts still have the issue.

Cross reference part numbers to make sure getting right one. They both fit. The Recall part has a bit of yellow tape at end of pig tail. Gen I and Gen II will both work in either bike. The difference is the connector color for the smaller wires, and then the Gen II recall part has yellow tape.

 

[adyingbreed]

A question:Are there some farkles on your bike like additional lights etc,that you installed and wired from the switch,red wire etc,and not directly from the battery terminals?

Zero farkles.

 

[adyingbreed]

Most of the time Yamaha will supersede to the latest part #.

"03" switch 5JW-82501-10
"05" switch 5JW-82501-20

-20 Usually means the part is upgrader or, but not in this case, it's a different color.

Go to parts zilla or any of those folks and look up your year, model and type. California has their own model. The switch is under:
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2004/fjr1300-fjr1300sc/electrical-2
Hope this helps.

And the recall switch is part number:

90891-30058-00​

 

[BigOgre]

And the recall switch is part number:

90891-30058-00​

Double-check that. Yamaha part numbers usually have three digits followed by five and then two sets of double digits at the end. The first double digit group will give you the revision number. The second/last two should refer to the color/finish of the part which isn't in play here. Just as an example 5JW-82501-20-00 tells you it's the second revision of the switch but again, do your due diligence.

 

[BigOgre]

No idea how or why they started with 2006 but here's some more reading material:

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2009/RCRIT-09V002-7594.pdf

 

[RossKean]

The following PDF is a clearer version of the one, above...

From the Yamaha Technical Bulletin... (Related to ignition switch recall.)
(I'm sure the price isn't current.)
Bulletin gives the whole procedure, including swapping the lock cylinder. I'm not entirely sure you can still buy the "kit" as per the document, but anything you get from a parts vendor with the normal Yamaha number would be the newer switch/wiring.

https://www.dishers.com/FJR/M2009-002R.pdf

 

[adyingbreed]

Double-check that. Yamaha part numbers usually have three digits followed by five and then two sets of double digits at the end. The first double digit group will give you the revision number. The second/last two should refer to the color/finish of the part which isn't in play here. Just as an example 5JW-82501-20-00 tells you it's the second revision of the switch but again, do your due diligence.

That's what this very forum told me
...

 

[adyingbreed]

The following PDF is a clearer version of the one, above...

From the Yamaha Technical Bulletin... (Related to ignition switch recall.)
(I'm sure the price isn't current.)
Bulletin give the whole procedure, including swapping the lock cylinder. I'm not entirely sure you can still buy the "kit" as per the document, but anything you get from a parts vendor with the normal Yamaha number would be the newer switch/wiring.

https://www.dishers.com/FJR/M2009-002R.pdfView attachment 4725

Price is anywhere from 37 to 90 dollars. The part isn't being made anymore so it's left over new stock you will find.

Some places (ebay sellers) are selling it for two different prices even though they claim its the exact same part...

 

[adyingbreed]

Double-check that. Yamaha part numbers usually have three digits followed by five and then two sets of double digits at the end. The first double digit group will give you the revision number. The second/last two should refer to the color/finish of the part which isn't in play here. Just as an example 5JW-82501-20-00 tells you it's the second revision of the switch but again, do your due diligence.

So it's 908-91300-58-00 looks like that still has the right character count. But as RossKean linked, that is the part number on the bulletin and the part number I found FROM THIS FORUM.

It just has a recall part formatting.

90891-30058-00

 

[norcal rider]

I know the part numbers are different so cross reference those.

I haven't even bought the recall part but know they are different and sold at different prices.

Cross reference them? Not sure what you mean. Gen 1 and Gen 2 ignition switches have different part numbers and different prices.
My question still stands; whether I buy a Gen 1 or Gen 2 switch, will I be getting the upgraded version, or just old stock they are trying to get rid of? I guess I could call the different part houses and ask.

 

[norcal rider]

So it's 908-91300-58-00 looks like that still has the right character count. But as RossKean linked, that is the part number on the bulletin and the part number I found FROM THIS FORUM.

It just has a recall part formatting.

90891-30058-00

Thanks for that. That is good info. For some reason the last two responses from you did not show up until after I had sent my reply. Weird. Sorry about that.
FROM THIS FORUM...... was that supposed to be a link, or were you shouting, er, I mean, making a point?

 

[adyingbreed]

Thanks for that. That is good info. For some reason the last two responses from you did not show up until after I had sent my reply. Weird. Sorry about that.
FROM THIS FORUM...... was that supposed to be a link, or were you shouting, er, I mean, making a point?

Ginger finger pointing.

Avast ye matey

 

[norcal rider]

Ginger finger pointing.

Avast ye matey

haha. I know. Just poking fun.
You obviously are better at researching the forum than I am. I also just discovered why I didn't see your posts. They are on page 2 of this thread. I was still stuck on page 1. sheesh. I'll get it one day....
My false sense of security was vaporized with all this new info, so I'm going to order a new switch with the numbers you supplied. I was lucky to be at home the two times my switch quit working.

 

[adyingbreed]

haha. I know. Just poking fun.
You obviously are better at researching the forum than I am. I also just discovered why I didn't see your posts. They are on page 2 of this thread. I was still stuck on page 1. sheesh. I'll get it one day....
My false sense of security was vaporized with all this new info, so I'm going to order a new switch with the numbers you supplied. I was lucky to be at home the two times my switch quit working.

I'm poor so save one of the 3 for me when I get a new paycheck next week.