Using windshield retract as 12v source on 2007

[HaulinAshe]

Ordered my repair manual almost two weeks ago but it's not arrived yet. Anybody with 06/07 schematic might be able to help.

I have disconnected the windshield auto-retract and am very interested in using the harness side of that connector for a 12v source. I can limit the use solely as a signal for my electrical block, but might also be interested in tapping it for RD connection.

Problem is that both leads (Red and Black/Red stripe) show test light hot with ignition on. I also have no idea what size circuit/relay feeds that function.

Any help from someone with a schematic in hand would be greatly appreciated.

 

[madmike2]

IIRC, the piece you disconnect is a loop that completes a circuit. I don't pretend to understand it because I'm not an electrician. Bounce uses it to feed his '03 to power relay and I used it on my '04 and now on my '05. I don't know that I'd want to use it to power anything directly but for exciting the relay, its been working for 24K miles.

I snipped the loop and used one side for switched power.

 

[HaulinAshe]

I don't think the circuit is exactly the same on the 06/07s. I know on my 05 that one leg of the harness side was hot with ignition on. Don't recall both testing hot like the 07 is doing. Guess I better wait and get a look at the schematic before deciding anything.

 

[AGirl]

Ordered my repair manual almost two weeks ago but it's not arrived yet. Anybody with 06/07 schematic might be able to help.
I have disconnected the windshield auto-retract and am very interested in using the harness side of that connector for a 12v source. I can limit the use solely as a signal for my electrical block, but might also be interested in tapping it for RD connection.

Problem is that both leads (Red and Black/Red stripe) show test light hot with ignition on. I also have no idea what size circuit/relay feeds that function.

Any help from someone with a schematic in hand would be greatly appreciated.

Don't know if you found your answer yet but I've got the new 2007 Service Manual and would be glad to help if needed.

AGirl

 

[Bounce]

Here's the pre-06 solution. IIRC someone with an 06 verified that the jumper works the same but might need to be accessed through the removable pannel under the windshield.

https://www.fjr-tips.org/mods/shield/shield.html

 

[Mississippi]

I ran up against the exact same thing on my '06 - both wires measured hot. I wanted to use this as a power source for my Audiovox CC. I guessed and used the black/red wire - this worked fine. The only problem is that the CC does not work with the winshield fully retracted. But if you bump it up a notch, it works fine. Next time I have it apart, I might try the other wire.

 

[HaulinAshe]

I ran up against the exact same thing on my '06 - both wires measured hot. I wanted to use this as a power source for my Audiovox CC. I guessed and used the black/red wire - this worked fine. The only problem is that the CC does not work with the winshield fully retracted. But if you bump it up a notch, it works fine. Next time I have it apart, I might try the other wire.

Thanks Mississippi!

My manual showed up today. I now know why it took so long to arrive. Yamaha had to have time to copy the 2006 manual! <_<

The damn schematics SAY 2006 on them! They could at least have the decency to change the title before charging my credit card.

Anyway, both the leads originate from the internal circuitry of the Windshield Drive Unit. There is no detail on the internals of that unit. Your experience with the Black/Red wire certainly helps.

Without good knowledge of the unit internals, I'll have to stick to using the Red wire as a signal-only lead.

I've looked over the schematic and found two places suitable for some limited power up front. The Auxillary DC Jack in the glove box (of course) at 3.0 amps, and the Accessory Box Solenoid connector which spawns from the Signaling System circuit that is fused at 15 Amps.

Since both of these are on the left side of the bike, I may opt for making two taps, the Aux DC for radar detector power and the Acc. Box Solenoid for a signal source to my auxillary power block. That way I will not be drawing appreciable current from any essential systems or risking burning a Windshield Drive Unit out.

Better safe than sorry me thinks.

 

[mech 1 twa]

Don't use that as a power source. 2-3 AMP. max. If you use it with a relay, to turn relay on thats OK.

Use a FUSED relay and some type of power distribution block. Much more wiring but can add other things later.

 

[Luke]

Jeff, I took the connector apart and tested both leads. Only one of them was hot but my windscreen was fully retracted at the time. I made the connector back up so it only had the one hot leading out. I used this for the relay to my Blue Sea fuse box.

It didn't occur to me to test the other 'dead' lead with the windscreen up. Interesting!

 

[Cdogman]

I just got done doing something like this but.

I used the leads to the solonoid for the glove box to close a relay mounted by there on an exsisting bolt. European block (radio shack) velcroed to the heat shield under gas tank. Along with another one for a ground. I disabled the solonoid by choice so I dont have to have the key on the get my earplugs out. Could have hooked it back up.

I will get picks up as I have had a few PM's asking me howdi power my autocom too