Valve adjust question

[dragonchef]

Many of you know I live in Seoul, and order parts to have a very good local mechanic do my work (check the previous posts with the RaceTEch install, among others). It's (past) time for the first valve check, and I will replace the cam chain tensioner while I am at it.

Reading through posts and FJRInfo valve adjust guide, it looks like I need a valve cover gasket, RUBBER MOUNT 5VY-1111G-00-00 (8 ea), O-RING 93210-18417-00 (2 ea) and that's it. In the FJRInfo site, it mentions another o-ring by the thermostat, but I don't see one on the microfiche cycle parts warehouse.Am I missing anything else? Any reason to change out the thermostat at this point (I would in my car)?

For the CCT, looks like I have the new part number for the CCT (TENSIONER ASSY, CAM 5JW-12210-10-00) . I probably also need the gasket (GASKET, TENSIONER CA

5JW-12213-00-00) and perhaps GUIDE, STOPPER 2 5BE-12241-00-00? How about the 2 dampers?

Thanks so much....

 

[markjenn]

This is all stuff you can replace and perhaps might need to replace, but FWIIW, I recently did the valve check at 27K and didn't replace anything. I don't think Yamaha specs that any of these gaskets or o-rings need replacing. Everything buttoned right back up with no leaks or problems. And replacing the CCT at every valve adjust seems WAY conservative to me.

- Mark

 

[madmike2]

I think the second "gasket" you are asking about are the O-rings that go on the water manifold at the top of the head.

They're listed under "Water Pump" and there are 2 of them:

2593210-18417-00 O-RING

 

[Fred W]

You really shouldn't need to replace the valve cover profile gasket. It should stay stuck to the valve cover when you remove it. The two sizes of o-rings for the coolant pipes can be found in local hardware stores.

 

[olsonm3915]

The two sizes of o-rings for the coolant pipes can be found in local hardware stores.

Fred,

How did you come up with the sizes for those O-rings? Just curious, I've googled for part number 93210-18417-00 but didn't find any dimensions.

 

[lnewlf]

And possibly the timing cover gasket. Prudent to remove the timing cover and zip tie the chain before removing the CTT.

 

[HaulinAshe]

And possibly the timing cover gasket. Prudent to remove the timing cover and zip tie the chain before removing the CTT.

+1

 

[Fred W]

Fred,

How did you come up with the sizes for those O-rings? Just curious, I've googled for part number 93210-18417-00 but didn't find any dimensions.

I brought the old ones to the local Home Despot and did a physical size matchup. You could try reinstalling the originals but mine were seriously squared off and I didn't trust them to seal fully.

The ones I came up with are #14 O-ring (15/16" OD x 3/4" ID x 3/32") equivalent to p/n 93210-18417-00. You'll want 2 of these for the two hard pipes going down into the head. Also get a #17 O-ring (1 1/16" OD x 7/8" ID x 3/32"), which is equivalent to p/n 93210-23787-00 , which is the interface to the thermostat housing. You just need 1.

At Home Depot they sell the Danco brand o-rings in 10 packs, so you'll have enough to do 5 valve checks.

And possibly the timing cover gasket. Prudent to remove the timing cover and zip tie the chain before removing the CTT.

For just a check you may not need to re-shim any valves, and therefore wouldn't need to remove the timing cover. When I replaced my CCT I was able to remove the timing cover without destroying the original gasket, but had one on hand just in case. You could also just use silicone sealer if the old gasket tears, it's just an oil seal (no pressure). But if you are placing an order for OE parts anyway, it's wise to throw a timing and clutch cover gasket on and hang onto them for future work.

 

[dragonchef]

I am doing the CCT due to elevated noise, and the experince of others.

Makes a lot of sense on the timing cover Gasket...

Fred I wish there was a Home Depot or even a local mom and pop hardware store like you have in the USA....things work a bit different here in Seoul. The stores are grouped by category and location, as an example, all of the plumbing supply stores are grouped in the same part of town, and there are probably 60 on a single block. Just a matter of finding that block, in a city (of 14 million) that does not name it's streets. However I have found the motorcycle shops... ;0

 

[Fred W]

That must be a very interesting experience. In that case, I'd probably pay the extra few shekels for buying the parts needed (or even anticipated) at the bike shop and just be done with it. What a difference in cultural environments...

Nice looking pup in your avatar, BTW.

As I recall this one is a rookie upstart, right? A replacement for the senior leaguer retiree that you had before?

Looks like a franchise player to me. I hope you can reach some good terms with him to keep him on your team.

 

[dragonchef]

Nice looking pup in your avatar, BTW.

As I recall this one is a rookie upstart, right? A replacement for the senior leaguer retiree that you had before?

Looks like a franchise player to me. I hope you can reach some good terms with him to keep him on your team.

Last guy was onthe team 12 1/2 years....this is a 2 year old shot that admin slipped in to my avatar after they tightened up the avatar rules (inall fairness, mine WAS crude...).

 

[olsonm3915]

Fred,How did you come up with the sizes for those O-rings? Just curious, I've googled for part number 93210-18417-00 but didn't find any dimensions.

I brought the old ones to the local Home Despot and did a physical size matchup. You could try reinstalling the originals but mine were seriously squared off and I didn't trust them to seal fully.
The ones I came up with are #14 O-ring (15/16" OD x 3/4" ID x 3/32") equivalent to p/n 93210-18417-00. You'll want 2 of these for the two hard pipes going down into the head. Also get a #17 O-ring (1 1/16" OD x 7/8" ID x 3/32"), which is equivalent to p/n 93210-23787-00, which is the interface to the thermostat housing. You just need 1.

At Home Depot they sell the Danco brand o-rings in 10 packs, so you'll have enough to do 5 valve checks.

Fred, I just got around to reading this- thanks much. I'd rather buy the O-rings at Home Depot, I'm sure they are cheaper than getting them from Yamaha and a heck of a lot quicker to boot. One clarification for the benefit of other Gen II owners- my Gen II has a different coolant manifold pipe and thermostat housing from your Gen I, so I don't need the 93210-23787-00 O-ring.

 

[Fred W]

Fred,How did you come up with the sizes for those O-rings? Just curious, I've googled for part number 93210-18417-00 but didn't find any dimensions.

I brought the old ones to the local Home Despot and did a physical size matchup. You could try reinstalling the originals but mine were seriously squared off and I didn't trust them to seal fully.
The ones I came up with are #14 O-ring (15/16" OD x 3/4" ID x 3/32") equivalent to p/n 93210-18417-00. You'll want 2 of these for the two hard pipes going down into the head. Also get a #17 O-ring (1 1/16" OD x 7/8" ID x 3/32"), which is equivalent to p/n 93210-23787-00, which is the interface to the thermostat housing. You just need 1.

At Home Depot they sell the Danco brand o-rings in 10 packs, so you'll have enough to do 5 valve checks.

Fred, I just got around to reading this- thanks much. I'd rather buy the O-rings at Home Depot, I'm sure they are cheaper than getting them from Yamaha and a heck of a lot quicker to boot. One clarification for the benefit of other Gen II owners- my Gen II has a different coolant manifold pipe and thermostat housing from your Gen I, so I don't need the 93210-23787-00 O-ring.

Good add on.

I don't know diddly about those new-fangled 2nd gens.

 

[dragonchef]

the mystery is solved....from reading I knew I was short a gasket, and now I know why....the feej should be 2 years older!

Great news anyhow. Now if I could only get it out of my parking lot

 

[John d]

I know this thread is old but I just measured the o-rings I got from the local Yamaha dealer today for the GenII (water manifold pipe to cylinder head o-rings).

I used a vernier and consistantly got the following readings:

ID: 0.700" = 17.78mm

Thickness : 0.106" = 2.69mm

Hope this helps someone down the road.

Now back to the garage to close up the motor.

BTW, 29955 miles, first valve check, all valves just inside spec.