Valve Adjustment...do I really need to?

[pumpkin]

Good day! I had the dealer do my first valve check at 28K on my 07. I now have 80K and am wondering why I should entertain either doing the job myself, or paying a dealer to do it. Are there symptoms of needing a valve check? My fuel economy hasn't fluctuated in a very long time. Are there other signs that the valves would be out of adjustment?

Thanks!

Dan

 

[kaitsdad]

I'm thinking you need to read through this .........

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/164636-what-if-i-never-do-the-valve-adjustment/

 

[TomInPA]

Do you know the clearances from the original valve check vs spec? I suspect not. So you are overdue for the third valve check and you're asking if you should do the second one? really?

Dan, learn to DIY. It isn't that big of a deal.

 

[smithpa68]

I did it for the first time a couple weeks ago. It really isn't that hard. And it gives great peace of mind knowning your specs are documented. Plenty of tips on these forums.

 

[escapefjrtist]

You don't need a valve check / adjustment until right up to the time you need it...

**Sigh**

--G

 

[rPGoatBoy]

Good day! I had the dealer do my first valve check at 28K on my 07. I now have 80K and am wondering why I should entertain either doing the job myself, or paying a dealer to do it. Are there symptoms of needing a valve check? My fuel economy hasn't fluctuated in a very long time. Are there other signs that the valves would be out of adjustment? Thanks!

Dan

am wondering why I should entertain either doing the job myself, or paying a dealer to do it. -- Because if neither of you do it, you run the risk of burning a valve or three.

Are there symptoms of needing a valve check? -- Nope.

My fuel economy hasn't fluctuated in a very long time. -- Got nothing to do with it. Well, close enough to nothing to be considered nothing.

Are there other signs that the valves would be out of adjustment? -- Loss of compression from a burned valve would be the first and definite sign of your valves being out of adjustment.

Seriously, read up on the forum(s). Been tackled many times, with pictures and spreadsheets!

 

[art miller]

You don't need a valve check / adjustment until right up to the time you need it...
**Sigh**

--G

Einstein's step child!!!

 

[pumpkin]

O.K. O.K. - I guess I just needed some encouragement! After taking the tank off it all looked like a daunting task. I'll review the articles and pics on the board and get back to work!

Thanks!

Dan

 

[RaYzerman19]

Tech day coming up in May over at Intech's house...........

 

[Bounce]

One of the many symptoms of our throw-away culture.

 

[Fred W]

I now have 80K and am wondering why I should entertain either doing the job myself, or paying a dealer to do it.

Why? Because a perfectly good running engine is a terrible thing to waste.

 

[RadioHowie]

Are there symptoms of needing a valve check?

See, right there is a perfect example of "mistaken mind-set". People confuse the need for valve checks with the need for valve adjustments.

There are NO symptoms of needing a valve check. But there ARE "indications" of needing a valve check, and Yamaha conveniently provided a device to determine the "indications" of needing a valve check. It's called the odometer.

When the odometer indicates "26,000 miles", "52,000 miles", "78,000 miles", "104,000 miles", etc., then it's time to do a valve check.

For the typical (?) FJR rider, that's about every 2 1/2 to 3 years for each check. For some, like Ignacio for example, it's every 6 months.

HOWEVER, there ARE examples of needing a valve "adjustment". Such as excessive top-end noise due to excess valve clearance; poor gas mileage or loss of power due to lack of valve clearance; or, a non-running, low compression FJR due to burned valve or seriously damaged valve seats.

Valve checks are a scheduled maintenance item, not something to do to keep your bike running correctly.

It's like changing your oil. You should change it every 4,000 miles or thereabouts. You don't have to. You can stretch the oil change out to 20,000 miles if you want to. But the risk is strictly yours. (And the poor ******* who eventually winds up with YOUR bike when you sell it or trade it in.)

 

[Fred W]

HOWEVER, there ARE examples of needing a valve "adjustment". Such as excessive top-end noise due to excess valve clearance; poor gas mileage or loss of power due to lack of valve clearance; ...

I disagree. What makes the valve check so important is that, right up until the point where you have let it go too far and damage to the valve has begun, the bike will run as good, even somewhat better, than ever.

Valve clearances generally get tighter as the seat and faces of the valve wear. Tighter clearances mean the valve will open up slightly further, and the duration and overlap will be slightly more degrees. These tend to make the engine perform even better than at the "spec" clearances. You'll feel like the old girl is really singing... Right up to the point where they can't close completely and you start burning the valves. At that point, you still don't need to adjust them. You can just start looking for a new head (cause you can't replace the valve seats) or a whole new engine.

I'd rather check the valves every couple of years than wait and risk having to replace the engine. YMMV

 

[Intech]

Tech day coming up in May over at Intech's house...........

That's right. With the way the voting is going for SEO it will be Mother's Day weekend.

I have done three valve clearance checks. The third one I had to make an adjustment on #4E2.. Adjusted the shim to match the rest and then the adventure began. Somehow I got the exhaust cam out of timing. I had time and an FSM(and this Forum!) and just followed the instructions. I ended up starting from scratch by removing both cams and reinstalling using all the indicators at TDC on #1 cylinder. I learned a lot and would be happy to share my knowledge with anyone that wants to do one at the upcoming tech day.

 

[odot]

When the valve seats are worn I imagine an experienced welder can add some material to the area and then you grind them down again to seat the valve.

 

[Fred W]

Uh huh...

Not sure if you are trolling or serious, but what welders do you know that can weld hardened steel valve seats into an aluminum alloy head?

 

[RaYzerman19]

I'd take a stab at refinishing the valve seats before investing in a new head, but that all depends on how much abuse they took...... should be able to hone them once. You can buy new valves, guides, springs, etc. but not seats. The answer of course is prevention so you don't have to spend all those big bucks and you really don't want to go there.

I'm of the opinion, that first valve check should be done before 30k to document where you are. I'm also good with extending the next check beyond 24k depending on what you see. But, the OP is way overdue... not likely gonna blow up tomorrow, but I'd do it soon.

 

[rbentnail]

O.K. O.K. - I guess I just needed some encouragement! After taking the tank off it all looked like a daunting task. I'll review the articles and pics on the board and get back to work!Thanks!

Dan

Dood! Mine's an '07. 1st check at ~26k needed no adjustment. 2nd check, ~48k did. 3rd check ~65k did. 4th check ~80k did not.

Just do it, it's not nearly as bad as it looks. I work a goofy schedule but if you really, really need a helping hand I'm just up the road: will work for coffee & donuts and food & beer. Small donations for gas $ will not be refused

.

It's easier if you remove the windshield too.

edit: And get WynPro Air Induction Cover Plates. Best time to install them is when the valve cover is off.

 

[RaYzerman19]

Talk about offers you can't refuse..... atta boy, Russ!