Zingo!!
It really ain't that hard.
It's amazing how cheap bike maintenance is when your shop rate is ZERO!!
Valve adjustment
- Thread starter James Burleigh
- Start date
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It really ain't that hard.
It's amazing how cheap bike maintenance is when your shop rate is ZERO!!
FJRay
Well-known member
I seem to remember you going after the starter on the whore. A valve adjust is easier than that. You could stop by on your next trip through the NW and learn how at no charge.
You REALLY REALLY need to learn how. You could then train your DAD.
:yahoo: 
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
And you can buy the parts for 30% off full boat freaking retail!Zingo!!
It really ain't that hard.
It's amazing how cheap bike maintenance is when your shop rate is ZERO!!
About it being, 'really ain't that hard'. Well, I have had various opinions on that.
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
Ray, after this past $644 beating I was thinking the same freaking thing: "Next time, for under $600 I could ride up to Ray's place in Oregon, pay him a couple hundred to show me how to do it, and then be ahead of the game from then on."
I seem to remember you going after the starter on the whore. A valve adjust is easier than that. You could stop by on your next trip through the NW and learn how at no charge.
You REALLY REALLY need to learn how. You could then train your DAD.
I should be due around next March. I'll stretch it out to April/May and will see you then.
Your offer is HIGHLY appreciated.
Oh, and there is NO training mi ******* step-pappy. He can eat, sleep, pre-order bikes, and talk **** about rides with the best of them. Anything other than that is a major stretch!
Hell, he has got me doing his FJR maintenance before he goes to CFR including doing an oil change!
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Maybe more if you search hard.
Hmmm... how do I say this delicately?
If you take your time, and think about what you're doing, and maybe delay the beer swilling until sometime after the maintenance, I think you'll be alright. You strike me as the kind'a guy that can walk and chew gum at the same time. Jus' sayin'...
It ain't rocket science. :huh:
GillaFunk
Well-known member
If you do 3,000 miles per month...then I have NO PITTY FOR YOU :angry:
And yes, at THAT rate, you should learn how to do it yourself.
phroenips
Pronounced "Free-nips"...it's just a
seems like a good time to renew my request: Could somebody shoot some video of how it's done? I've seen the pictures, but they don't leave me with as many warm fuzzies as I'd like. I think some video would do wonders (in person would be even better if you're in the Colorado front range area...I can make it worth your while too)
GillaFunk
Well-known member
$450 :yahoo:
That covered everything covered here + valve adjust and TB sync.
- Crank Case ventilation under the valve covers was filty and needed cleaning
- Front brake drain and refill
- Radiator blow-job
- Clutch fluid drain + refill
Did not need
- new plugs as I had Irridiums
- I change my own oils
- Bearing repack
This is my independant BMW guy who I have used for years to service my Kraut bike. Gave him a service manual and he was off
That covered everything covered here + valve adjust and TB sync.
- Crank Case ventilation under the valve covers was filty and needed cleaning
- Front brake drain and refill
- Radiator blow-job
- Clutch fluid drain + refill
Did not need
- new plugs as I had Irridiums
- I change my own oils
- Bearing repack
This is my independant BMW guy who I have used for years to service my Kraut bike. Gave him a service manual and he was off
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
No rear brake drain and refill? Youse got linked brakes ya know.
Good price for all that stuff. I take my VW car to an independent mechanic to save big $$$$. Wish I could find an indy for the FJR I could trust.
Good price for all that stuff. I take my VW car to an independent mechanic to save big $$$$. Wish I could find an indy for the FJR I could trust.
WBill
Well-known member
Had my second valve check done about 1,000 mile ago,and it cost about $600.00 plus parts. The bike is an '05 model.
My mechanic told me there was no adjusting needed, and that he wondered why people even bothered with the job. He said he had only had to change the shims on factory new bikes that had been shipped a little tight. I will probably never have the job done again. This time, though, I used the opportunity to swap out the CCT for the new style, the OEM one having begun to rattle.
Dang thing still doesn't idle right, though it is a little more consistent after 1,000 miles. Used to start up at about 2K rpm till she warmed up, but now it starts below 1K. Guess there's still a little air in the cooling system. (?) WBill
My mechanic told me there was no adjusting needed, and that he wondered why people even bothered with the job. He said he had only had to change the shims on factory new bikes that had been shipped a little tight. I will probably never have the job done again. This time, though, I used the opportunity to swap out the CCT for the new style, the OEM one having begun to rattle.
Dang thing still doesn't idle right, though it is a little more consistent after 1,000 miles. Used to start up at about 2K rpm till she warmed up, but now it starts below 1K. Guess there's still a little air in the cooling system. (?) WBill
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
Sounds like your mechanic screwed something up!
I have extended my valve check interval a little bit, but I will never stop doing them. That is bad if you ask me. I have had valves re-shimmed about 2/3 of the time during valve checks.
$600 PLUS parts. Ouch. What did that bring it to? $700-$750? And I thought mine was bad.
BikerGeek99
Yeah, it's a concrete corn cob. So?
Ummm.... You may want to re-think that plan of action.
At our Michigan Tech Day last month, we (Rayzerman19) did a valve check on my bike, an '04 with 76,000 miles on the clock. At that time, I had put about 32,000 on it since I got it and this was the first check done on it since I bought it, so I have no idea when / if the last check was performed.
6 valves were outta spec - 3 intake and 3 exhaust.
So, you know, YMMV and all that crap, so it's up to you. Maybe just extend the valve-check interval...
TILAM
Well-known member
I just picked up mine at the shop after valve check, throttle body sync and fork oil change.
I have 74,000 km (about 45,000 miles)and this is the first time any of those has been done. All valves with in spec. I spoke to the mechanic and he said the throttle body syc was fine too with no adjustment necesssary. I was a bit flabergasted that everything was ok. Does this sound normal? I don't beat on her but it does get to redline occasionally.
The fork oil change presented quite a problem as they had troubles getting the seals out. He said something about over filling and then using a press to pop them out. That's appearantly how Yamaha says to do it.
One of the fork shims got buggered up and they had to order new ones. They used Yamaha M1(?) fork oil which seems to be a bit unusual and had to be ordered too. The clip on one of the fork guards got broken and they will replace it for free later as it's back ordered.
The good news is the bike runs fine after I got it back. Luckly the weather has been rainy lately as they had it a week and a half doing it.
I have 74,000 km (about 45,000 miles)and this is the first time any of those has been done. All valves with in spec. I spoke to the mechanic and he said the throttle body syc was fine too with no adjustment necesssary. I was a bit flabergasted that everything was ok. Does this sound normal? I don't beat on her but it does get to redline occasionally.
The fork oil change presented quite a problem as they had troubles getting the seals out. He said something about over filling and then using a press to pop them out. That's appearantly how Yamaha says to do it.
One of the fork shims got buggered up and they had to order new ones. They used Yamaha M1(?) fork oil which seems to be a bit unusual and had to be ordered too. The clip on one of the fork guards got broken and they will replace it for free later as it's back ordered.
The good news is the bike runs fine after I got it back. Luckly the weather has been rainy lately as they had it a week and a half doing it.
I'm guessing that most shops won't change clearance shims unless the clearances are pretty far out of range. Same goes for the syncing of the throttle bodies.
They'll make a change if it's a "no brainer" that something must be done but otherwise they'll leave it as is.
They'll make a change if it's a "no brainer" that something must be done but otherwise they'll leave it as is.
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
IMHO.... NO!
I really wonder about all these FJRs not needing valve re-shimming. Are dealers NOT really doing a good job because they don't wan't to tear it down any further? Or is my guy making up work on mine (and other's) FJRs. I really trust my guy, but ..... ????
I know that frequently they don't need adjusting, but so little of them? So infrequently? That has certainly not been my experience nor a few others I know.
And what really makes me suspect in your case is the TBs not needing adjustment. I really don't think he did this. You are supposed to do it every 4k according to Yamaha. But personnaly I don't think it's necessary that often. When I first got my FJR I did it for a while close to their 4k recommendation. Now I stretch that to 15-20k or so. EVERY time I have done mine I have adjusted them. Maybe 12-15 times total? Once or twice they were out significantly, all the others just a little. Still I adjusted them EVERY time and made them a bit better.
So I find the odds that yours were 'fine' at that mileage to be slim to none. (Depending on what your mechanic's definition of 'fine' is.) Still, if he actually checked them, adjusting them is a simple procedure at that point.
I don't trust your mechanic. Was he a Yamaha dealer? This is why I do most of my own maintenance.
Know anybody around you that has a TBS tool? It's a fairly simple procedure. I would be interested in what you come up with.
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RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
I guess it all depends on how you value your "Personal Time."It's amazing how cheap bike maintenance is when your shop rate is ZERO!!
I don't mow my own yard, because it takes about 3 hours (with a walk-behind) and has to be done at least 4 times per month....6 during the "growing season".
I figure, based on my weekly salary, and how little spare time I really have for myself, my "Personal Time" is worth at least $25 an hour, so paying someone $100 a month to mow my grass is a no-brainer.
Long story short, MY shop rate is $25/hour.
GillaFunk
Well-known member
@ 29k my '07 valves were w/in spec
@27k my buddies '07 was in spec as well
Hydrolic lifters would make all this BS just go away and make this one LOOOOOOW maintenance kick a$$ bike. :yahoo:
@27k my buddies '07 was in spec as well
Hydrolic lifters would make all this BS just go away and make this one LOOOOOOW maintenance kick a$$ bike. :yahoo:
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
Did you do them yourself? Or a dealer?
Were they in the middle of spec? Near the edge?
At those mileages I am not completely surprised they were within spec, but as you go up...........
Bustanut joker
Well-known member
You are grossly overpaid...I guess it all depends on how you value your "Personal Time."It's amazing how cheap bike maintenance is when your shop rate is ZERO!!
I don't mow my own yard, because it takes about 3 hours (with a walk-behind) and has to be done at least 4 times per month....6 during the "growing season".
I figure, based on my weekly salary, and how little spare time I really have for myself, my "Personal Time" is worth at least $25 an hour, so paying someone $100 a month to mow my grass is a no-brainer.
Long story short, MY shop rate is $25/hour.
Kerist! 25 clams an hour to breed with Sea Cows is absurd!
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Are you kidding??? The manatees pay me $50 per gram of baby-gravy. :****:You are grossly overpaid...I guess it all depends on how you value your "Personal Time."It's amazing how cheap bike maintenance is when your shop rate is ZERO!!
I don't mow my own yard, because it takes about 3 hours (with a walk-behind) and has to be done at least 4 times per month....6 during the "growing season".
I figure, based on my weekly salary, and how little spare time I really have for myself, my "Personal Time" is worth at least $25 an hour, so paying someone $100 a month to mow my grass is a no-brainer.
Long story short, MY shop rate is $25/hour.
Kerist! 25 clams an hour to breed with Sea Cows is absurd!
