Valve Adjustment

[bluesdog]

I don't get why this is even an issue. It's a very simple job to check the valves, and not much more difficult to actually adjust the shims, according to reports from those who have done so.

The two coolant tube o-rings are the only new parts required for a check

You need to own/borrow a few standard tools for the job, and set aside a couple hours at most for the work

The satisfaction, and knowledge gained is well worth it, as is the peace of mind knowing your engine is not put at unnecessary risk of self-destruction

 

[RossKean]

You are out of your mind if you think that is a wise idea.
Valves don't make noise when they need to be adjusted.

A little hard to argue with Gray Ghost's success but I think its safe to say that he was extraordinarily fortunate. In my case, I did my first valve check at close to 50,000 miles and then at pretty much the prescribed intervals. As it turns out, I would have been in the same situation if I had done my first one at 100,000 miles - the first time I had to make any changes. Currently set in the middle of the range and I won't worry about the next one for awhile. I think its a good idea to get the first check done fairly early and, on the basis of measured clearance, you can decide whether to extend the interval for the next check. You have to know your starting point - never know where they were set when they came out of the factory. A minority of owners have had to make changes on their first check and I think it would have been bad news if they had waited for 100,000 miles. The acceptance interval is just that - a bit below or above is probably OK but why risk it?

I don't get why this is even an issue. It's a very simple job to check the valves, and not much more difficult to actually adjust the shims, according to reports from those who have done so.
The two coolant tube o-rings are the only new parts required for a check

You need to own/borrow a few standard tools for the job, and set aside a couple hours at most for the work

The satisfaction, and knowledge gained is well worth it, as is the peace of mind knowing your engine is not put at unnecessary risk of self-destruction

I think allowing "a couple of hours" is pretty optimistic, especially for a first valve check. Having done three checks at this point, I think I could do it in 3-4 hours. At least a couple more hours if adjustments are needed (and I had the right replacement shims on hand). Since coolant has to be drained anyway, its a good idea to change it while you are at it. Plugs too. Might need a new timing cover gasket if you are changing shims - pretty much have to remove it to ensure you don't mess up the valve timing when you remove the cams although I have managed to get by with the original one after two removals. Valve cover gasket can be reused (x3 so far) if you are careful and it doesn't stick too badly at any point.

 

[RaYzerman19]

At 26k, there is no panic but I would do the first valve check soon to establish the base line and know where things are. Based on your readings you can then decide whether to extend the interval for the next one.

 

[bluesdog]

You are out of your mind if you think that is a wise idea.
Valves don't make noise when they need to be adjusted.

A little hard to argue with Gray Ghost's success but I think its safe to say that he was extraordinarily fortunate. In my case, I did my first valve check at close to 50,000 miles and then at pretty much the prescribed intervals. As it turns out, I would have been in the same situation if I had done my first one at 100,000 miles - the first time I had to make any changes. Currently set in the middle of the range and I won't worry about the next one for awhile. I think its a good idea to get the first check done fairly early and, on the basis of measured clearance, you can decide whether to extend the interval for the next check. You have to know your starting point - never know where they were set when they came out of the factory. A minority of owners have had to make changes on their first check and I think it would have been bad news if they had waited for 100,000 miles. The acceptance interval is just that - a bit below or above is probably OK but why risk it?

I don't get why this is even an issue. It's a very simple job to check the valves, and not much more difficult to actually adjust the shims, according to reports from those who have done so.
The two coolant tube o-rings are the only new parts required for a check

You need to own/borrow a few standard tools for the job, and set aside a couple hours at most for the work

The satisfaction, and knowledge gained is well worth it, as is the peace of mind knowing your engine is not put at unnecessary risk of self-destruction

I think allowing "a couple of hours" is pretty optimistic, especially for a first valve check. Having done three checks at this point, I think I could do it in 3-4 hours. At least a couple more hours if adjustments are needed (and I had the right replacement shims on hand). Since coolant has to be drained anyway, its a good idea to change it while you are at it. Plugs too. Might need a new timing cover gasket if you are changing shims - pretty much have to remove it to ensure you don't mess up the valve timing when you remove the cams although I have managed to get by with the original one after two removals. Valve cover gasket can be reused (x3 so far) if you are careful and it doesn't stick too badly at any point.

Yah, if adjustment is needed, it'll take more than a couple hours. I set aside a full day for the job, but no adjustments were needed, and it went surprisingly fast. Most difficulty I had was replacing the dratted valve cover gasket during reassembly. It kept slipping out of alignment until I resorted to a teensy bit of gasket sticky stuff. Flailing with that thing added to the time. Even so, I had it done in less than 3 hours.

I didn't change coolant or plugs, as those chores had been done recently beforehand. Needed to top up the coolant, of course, but that took only a few minutes.

Actual shim adjustment and replacing of the timing cover gasket would add considerably to the time required.

 

[RaYzerman19]

A little tip from my experience at having several valve covers off.... do this first thing in your job or the night before.... when you remove the valve cover, clean up well, use some gasket adhesive and reinstall the valve cover gasket on the valve cover and set aside. I have not seen a deteriorated valve cover gasket that needed replacing (yet) on Gen1 & II FJR's of various ages and mileages up to 100k. If one day you need to replace it, it still can be done, and your adhesive job will/should last forever almost, for future valve checks. Do not glue the gasket to the cylinder head. When you install, use a flashlight above the rad to ensure it is aligned across the front, and of course, check the half moon sections are properly seated.