Valve Check Mystery

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Now that you mention oil, I did put a coat of oil on the cams where the caps go on. Since it sat a while before I got the shims and waiting for the next weekend to roll around to work on it, I thought it would be a good idea to ensure there was a film of oil between the cam and caps. I don't know if this could have caused the variance or not. Should I have put a film of oil between the cams and the caps?

 
Now that you mention oil, I did put a coat of oil on the cams where the caps go on. Since it sat a while before I got the shims and waiting for the next weekend to roll around to work on it, I thought it would be a good idea to ensure there was a film of oil between the cam and caps. I don't know if this could have caused the variance or not. Should I have put a film of oil between the cams and the caps?
I'm assuming that what you are calling caps are what I refer to buckets (shim under buckets) and I would certainly make sure they had an adequate film of oil before taking measurements. Is there any chance that a garage temperature change was the cause of a tighter clearance?

 
No, the caps are the clamps that go over the cam shafts to clamp it in place. I'm calling the buckets the lifters, I believe this is how they are referred to in the manual. There was still a good layer of oil over the top of the buckets (lifters).

 
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No, the caps are the clamps that go over the cam shafts to clamp it in place. I'm calling the buckets the lifters, I believe this is how they are referred to in the manual. There was still a good layer of oil over the top of the buckets (lifters).
Got it! Same answer though, the oil layer is vital for the cams and is also responsible for most of the "play" between the bucket and cam lobe.

 
One suggestion for the future, and for any others kibitzing from the wings...

Doing your valve check with inch based feeler gauges is fine. Essentially we are checking to be sure the clearance is within a range, so as long as we can confirm that they are, and record about where in that range they were for comparing to future checks, you are fine. It's essentially a go / no-go situation.

But once you determine that you are going to need to adjust, you will make more accurate measurements by switching over and using metric feeler gauges. As I mentioned previously, metric gauges come in .01mm increments. Inch based gauges come in .001" increments. Since .001" = 0.0254mm, using the metric gauges is 2 1/2 times more precise. It could help reduce some of this sort of measurement variability.

 
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If you have to adjust don't trust the makings on the removed shim! Measure it and whatever shim you plan to replace it to be sure of the the markings. That is what started my problems with the 07 I just did.

 
About that bent cam thing... hard to do, but if you do, it will break first. Always tighten the caps down incrementally to keep any risk of that to a minimum. All in all, DezzertRider's procedure seems pretty good to me, just had some "gauge R&R" issues creep in. I've done quite a few valve checks, and it's happened to me too.

 
Rayzerman,

Well it is good to know that I'm not extra special in this regard and be the only one that this has ever happened to. FredW, Good idea about using metric feeler gauges as they would be more accurate to the clearances listed in the service manual. At this point since I have so much experience now removing and installing the cams, I'm going to set them all to mid-range so that I may only need to do a check at the 50K mi mark.

Thanks for all the input!

 
Rayzerman,
Well it is good to know that I'm not extra special in this regard and be the only one that this has ever happened to. FredW, Good idea about using metric feeler gauges as they would be more accurate to the clearances listed in the service manual. At this point since I have so much experience now removing and installing the cams, I'm going to set them all to mid-range so that I may only need to do a check at the 50K mi mark.
I would set them all to the loose end of the range and forget about valve checks for the next 100K miles....which is what I did to my C14.

 
Got it all put back together finally. With the new CCT in there, the engine is quieter and purrs like a kitten. I have to say that doing this valve adjustment was a challenge to my mechanical abilities. It is not easy working in the cramped space with all the peripheral hardware, wiring harnesses, hoses, thermostat housing etc. on top of the valve cover. On the first reassembly I pinched the valve cover gasket and had an oil leak.
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Had to take everything back off and get the valve cover gasket seated correctly. Hopefully it will be easier next time.

I now have the forks off and I'm changing the fork fluid. This should be a cake walk compared to the valve adjustment. I will also be removing the steering head to clean an repack the bearings. After that, I'm going for a ride!
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In reading this thread this one important item was not brought up. The quality of the measuring vernier or calipers being used. A lot of china crap (read harbor freight in US or Princess Auto in CA) are or can be very suspect. Particularly the digital readout versions.( I do not trust the digital versions, they always seem to move around just a tad)

Test you clearance measurement on a known test block (comes in most quality instrument cases) to verify its accuracy. Also measure your shims (especially if aftermarket) regardless of what is indicated on them. I have seen them be marked wrong.

I have not yet done a FJR but let me tell you it is a cakewalk in comparison to a C14.(one of the main reasons I do not own one).

 
+1 Steve. Gauge R&R is more important as the desired level of precision increases. A true gauge R&R study includes the variation of the user(s). Calibrated mikes are better than calipers are better than feeler gauges. Lot of variables possible when using feelers, especially when not having enough feelers to refine the resolution. Every small error stacks up.....

 
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