Valve Check Time for MikeP - Differences between Gen I and Gen II?

[hppants]

I gave this an honest 20 minute search before starting this thread - hold your flames, please.

It's time for MikeP1300 to check his valves - we are going to tackle it in my shop next weekend. I've did this twice on my Gen I, never tried it on a Gen II. Few questions:

1. Are the valve specs the same for the Gen II (Intake: 0.006"- 0.008", Exhaust: 0.007"-0.010")?

2, Has anybody had trouble removing the cooling pipe WITHOUT removing the thermostat? I bought the T/S o-ring for my gen 1 and never used it. I can't find the Gen II T/S o-ring on the Part shark schematics. If someone would give me that part number, I will gladly include one in our parts list.

3. Just a general question - are there any other major differences in the procedure for the Gen II v/s the Gen I? Any land mines I need to worry about? Tips? Tricks?

Thanks much.

 

[RossKean]

1) Specs are the same

2) No thermostat removal. Just need the two O-rings for coolant pipe.

3) Not that I know of but I haven't done a Gen I. In replacing the valve cover, use some O2 sensor-safe RTV silicone to "glue" the gasket to the cover. Make sure gasket and cover slot are free of oil before you do this. Don't use too much and let it set a few hours before you try to put it back. Much easier to remove and replace cover if you get the throttle cables completely out of the way. For rotating the engine, put it in 5th and rotate the engine with the rear wheel rather than removing the timing cover to use a wrench. (Unless, of course, you are changing the CCT at the same time). If you are changing shims, zip-tie the chain to the cams and move them out of the way rather than removing the cams entirely. Might want to remove timing cover and make sure the chain can't move on the lower sprocket. Obviously, plugs out for valve check.

Have fun!

 

[hppants]

Great help, Ross - much thanks. Your #3 answer brings back my memory just fine. The RTV tip is a good one - I've had great success with that on my Gen I.

I was going to remove the crank shaft bolt access plug and just use a socket to rotate the crank. If we have to change shims, we will remove the timing cover. I'll zip tie the chain to the cam gears, but after it is all said and done, I want to see (with MY eyes) the timing marks line up through two rotations. For me, it's worth the peace of mind as a mistake in this department is total devastation. If you recall, I'm not immune from stupidity in the mechanics department (remember my "pumpkin" disaster?????) LOL

IIRC, the CCT for the Gen II bike is the good one, yes? IOW - we should not need to replace that unless it's making noise?

We will do a TBS while in there. Should I get a set of caps for the manometer nipples? I hear that these disintegrate when you try to remove them.

Thanks again.

 

[RossKean]

My (2007) Gen II had the old style CCT. I changed it out at maybe 40,000 miles "just because". If its not making a noise, there's no panic. I think they changed to the newer design CCT in 2008 or so but I'm not sure.

The rubber is still OK on my TBS nipples at almost 150,000 miles. Wouldn't change them unless they were degraded. You could probably find something you could use at an auto parts dealer if the local Yamaha guy didn't have stock.

Valve cover gasket is 95% likely to be OK but you are screwed if it isn't. The timing cover gasket has about a 50% chance of being OK to re-use.

 

[hppants]

Most Excellent!!! Again, many thanks for the help.

I got very specific and experienced technical support for my problem from a guy thousands of miles away in less than 30 minutes!!!

That's some cool shit right there, man.

 

[RaYzerman19]

If you are going to change shims or the CCT, zip tie the chain at the crankshaft end so the chain does not fall below the crank sprocket. I'm a fan of turning the engine with the socket (clockwise only). Any CCT you buy now will be the new design. Remove the throttle cables at the right handgrip, which will be enough slack to get the valve cover out. Pull out the big end (right) first. Install is the reverse.

For removal of the coolant pipe, you'll have fun undoing the small clamp on the left end due to it's factory orientation (6 mm socket). Undo the large clamp to the lower hose, pull the lower hose down to disengage it. Caution excessive prying on the coolant pipe will/can bend/distort. Wiggle it out.

Edit add - before changing shims/CCT, rotate to TDC such that the timing marks on the end of the cam sprockets (hard to see on the right end) are aligned with the top edge of the cylinder head...... this is your reference when you get it all back together, along with the crankshaft timing wheel aligned also. With a strong narrow focus flashlight, you should be able to gunsight these marks.

Edited again.

 

[Redfish Hunter]

I have no advice and for once no sarcasm either. I may take a ride that way if you and Mike do not mind so I can see what it all looks like. It would be good to see you and Mike anyway.

I figure if you do his Gen 2 and then YOUR Gen 3 then you will be ready to do Dad's Gen 2 and MY Gen 3.

 

[hppants]

Sounds good - we call it a mini-tech day.

 

[RaYzerman19]

Edited my post again....... I just did a valve check on mine today (no adjustments required), nobody was around to slow me down, so taking my time, it was about 3.5 hours from beginning to firing up the engine. However, not my first rodeo, so I expect you will take longer.

 

[hppants]

Not my first rodeo either - I did it twice on my Gen I. The premise behind this thread is to identify the differences, if any, between doing this job on a Gen I bike v/s a Gen II.

None the less, I appreciate any and all feedback on the matter.

 

[rbentnail]

One thing I have learned about coolant pipe- removing the short little curved section of hose completely, the one the pipes "sits in" when installing the pipe, sure makes the installation easier. Then slip the hose back onto the pipe from the bottom/outside left.

 

[audiowize]

I've had the privilege of doing my Gen1 while Fontanaman was doing his Gen2 at the same time. On the Gen1, I did indeed replace the thermostat O-ring and cursed a little bit regarding that silly screw that attaches the thermostat housing but is on the bottom of said assembly. Jim couldn't figure out why I was grousing so much, and it turns out that the Gen2 has the thermostat housing in line with hose connections on each end, so you're off the hook on that third O-ring.

One thing that worked really nicely was using a shop vac and a piece of 3/8" vinyl hose with one hand as the loose seal between the two, then the vinyl hose can be used to suck all the strange small rocks out of the wells in the valve cover where the cooling manifold attaches.