I always recommend you lube the drive and driven splines with every tire change. Cheap and easy to do. Avoids grinding down the splines to nubs which I've seen happen on other bikes with less HP (that were ignored).
Wanting to service swingarm, if required!
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RossKean
Well-known member
I check and clean/regrease (if necessary) the splines in the "pumpkin" any time I have the wheel off. The splines at the other end of the drive shaft (plugging into the U-Joint) don't get as much care and attention. Its been a couple of years and close to 50,000 mi. since I did that end of the drive. Just added it to my winter's list of things-to-do. I don't know if I will do the swingarm or not...
FJRMGM
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I don't believe I have ever seen a post of an issue where the rear splines have worn for any reason?
I would attribute that to the FJR owners who put miles on their bike having learned the hard lessons from the Gold Wing and other shaft drive owners who had such failures and not skipping the required maintenance.
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I would disagree (again).
Just think of the number of FJR owners/riders who do not frequent forums, and who have their maintenance done by a shop, They would never get their "splines" lubed because nowhere in the factory service manual periodic maintenance procedures does it mention a need to lubricate those parts on a preventive basis. There is a note to grease the splines at the front end of the shaft during assembly (with lithium soap grease, not moly), but no mention of doing it at any particular service interval. And for the large diameter splines that couple the wheel to the pumpkin, the FSM doesn't even mention a need to grease those during assembly.
These splines we are talking about do not slide laterally during operation. The reason these splines do not wear out is because they do not slide. Once they are joined during assembly there is essentially no friction on their teeth. All of the lateral give and take in the drive shaft is provided at the rear end of the shaft with another (third) spline that is immersed in gear lube, so there is really no need for grease on these other two splines except for corrosion protection.
YMMV
Just think of the number of FJR owners/riders who do not frequent forums, and who have their maintenance done by a shop, They would never get their "splines" lubed because nowhere in the factory service manual periodic maintenance procedures does it mention a need to lubricate those parts on a preventive basis. There is a note to grease the splines at the front end of the shaft during assembly (with lithium soap grease, not moly), but no mention of doing it at any particular service interval. And for the large diameter splines that couple the wheel to the pumpkin, the FSM doesn't even mention a need to grease those during assembly.
These splines we are talking about do not slide laterally during operation. The reason these splines do not wear out is because they do not slide. Once they are joined during assembly there is essentially no friction on their teeth. All of the lateral give and take in the drive shaft is provided at the rear end of the shaft with another (third) spline that is immersed in gear lube, so there is really no need for grease on these other two splines except for corrosion protection.
YMMV
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RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
All splines move. All splines have clearances and tolerances and are designed to be a slide fit. If they were line to line fit, you'd never get them together. Splines are broached (drawn through a die) as opposed to bearings which are machined and polished to finer tolerances and designed to a tighter fit than splines. Radially, these movements are very small, and they generate heat from friction. They must have lube of some kind, partially as corrosion protection, partially to fill the clearances to cushion the movement, partially to prevent excessive wear. Laterally, there is movement so things aren't bound up as geometry changes with the significant torque applied in acceleration, deceleration and suspension movement. Friction and heat again. The front U-joint floats on two splines. If you welded all those things up, you'd have a hell of a rough ride (swingarm wouldn't move much) and something would break. U-joint would fail at some point.
Well known that Honda rear drive splines wear out if not cared for. Clearances may be bigger, material may be softer, surface area may be smaller (less load-bearing area), who knows, so they say lube with moly paste. FJR rear drive flange is larger and longer, thus better. Moly paste can withstand very high temperatures and the moly particles bond with metal.
Bottom line, you need lube of some kind at some kind of service interval that makes sense.
Well known that Honda rear drive splines wear out if not cared for. Clearances may be bigger, material may be softer, surface area may be smaller (less load-bearing area), who knows, so they say lube with moly paste. FJR rear drive flange is larger and longer, thus better. Moly paste can withstand very high temperatures and the moly particles bond with metal.
Bottom line, you need lube of some kind at some kind of service interval that makes sense.
MCRIDER007
Well-known member
I haven't either but I had a 84 Venture Royale with the same rear splines and many did fail (the front splines) around 40K because nobody had a clue they needed maintenance. I asked my dealer to check the splines at 33K and they were bone dry and worn but still functional......and eventually did fail at 57K (after I had sold the bike).
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Jack G
Member
I am in the middle of a complete refurb at 75K mi and have my swingarm and relay arm completely removed.
Your lift is a little different than mine but I think you could adapt to accomplish the same. I will take a picture next time I am at the shop.
I made a second pipe rack but instead of putting "feet" on the bottom, I left the legs as straight runs. I ground a groove in the bottom of each leg so that it would sit on the lip of the lift. This way the rack is supported on the lift and will raise and lower with the lift. Three ratchet straps needed. Two attach to the top bar of the pipe rack, one running forward, one running back, each anchored at the bottom to the lift. This keeps the pipe rack from moving. Third goes from top rail of pipe rack to crossrail of bike (btw where seats would meet).
With a scissor jack under the engine with appropriate wood blocks this point becomes a pivot point. Standing at the back of the bike, slightly lift the rear of the bike as you draw the ratchet strap up. The bike is now supported under the engine in the front and hanging from the pipe stand in the rear.
You can now remove the swingarm, center stand, relay arm and anything else you want to clean or fix. I completely disassembled the center stand and cleaned and lubricated everything. The swingarm bearings look fine and simply needed repacked. Not so with the relay arm. The needle bearings were rusted horribly. Noticeable play in the front bearing and seized bearing in the rear. I am replacing all 6 needle bearings in the relay arm and new seals. New rear shock from Racetech due in soon.
While I was there, I removed the rear brake lever and master cylinder mechanism and cleaned and lubricated that as well. My brake lever would occasionally hang up and not release completely. (Brake lite on when not braking)
I hope your imagination can put together what I have described. I am not proficient in getting pics posted but will work on it.
Your lift is a little different than mine but I think you could adapt to accomplish the same. I will take a picture next time I am at the shop.
I made a second pipe rack but instead of putting "feet" on the bottom, I left the legs as straight runs. I ground a groove in the bottom of each leg so that it would sit on the lip of the lift. This way the rack is supported on the lift and will raise and lower with the lift. Three ratchet straps needed. Two attach to the top bar of the pipe rack, one running forward, one running back, each anchored at the bottom to the lift. This keeps the pipe rack from moving. Third goes from top rail of pipe rack to crossrail of bike (btw where seats would meet).
With a scissor jack under the engine with appropriate wood blocks this point becomes a pivot point. Standing at the back of the bike, slightly lift the rear of the bike as you draw the ratchet strap up. The bike is now supported under the engine in the front and hanging from the pipe stand in the rear.
You can now remove the swingarm, center stand, relay arm and anything else you want to clean or fix. I completely disassembled the center stand and cleaned and lubricated everything. The swingarm bearings look fine and simply needed repacked. Not so with the relay arm. The needle bearings were rusted horribly. Noticeable play in the front bearing and seized bearing in the rear. I am replacing all 6 needle bearings in the relay arm and new seals. New rear shock from Racetech due in soon.
While I was there, I removed the rear brake lever and master cylinder mechanism and cleaned and lubricated that as well. My brake lever would occasionally hang up and not release completely. (Brake lite on when not braking)
I hope your imagination can put together what I have described. I am not proficient in getting pics posted but will work on it.
red2kcbr
Well-known member
Plus 1 on the drive shaft splines lube. I clean and lube with Honda Moly 60 paste, good stuff. The first time I changed out the rear tire, the splines were practically dry from the factory, or just not well lubed to start with. But they always look good using the Honda Moly 60, and a tube last a long time.
Same with rear drive oil. I change it out every oil change, because it's easy, it doesn't hold much, and it makes me feel better.
Same with rear drive oil. I change it out every oil change, because it's easy, it doesn't hold much, and it makes me feel better.
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