What are the warning signs of low tire pressure?

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The first thing you might notice with low tire pressure is the bike doesn't roll as easily, for instance if you have to walk it out backwrds or forward from your parking spot.

 
I also insist the tyres remain on the bike....all the time...absolutely................... no exceptions ! And I fondle them often...warm of course. :blink:

And not to hi-jack yer thread ZZ, but I used Metzlers for many years on British Twins and old UJM's...my current oldie, an '81 Honda CB750k has a set of ME-880's on him now. I've never had anything remotely catastrophic happen in more than 200k on those ratty 'ol bikes. I am well aware of the recent problems with their products on our FJR's...When did they turn to shyte ? Comments? Cajoles?

Bobby

 
Yikes! :eek: Once a month is far too long to go. I've always checked my tire pressure at the start of every day I plan to ride. Don't stop there, though. Roll the front tire through your hand and examine it for things stuck in the tread - tacks, nails, the random sharp rock. That's the kind of stuff that will get worse and land you on your keester. Centerstand your bike and do the same on the rear tire.
As mentioned above, a rapid rear flat is bad enough while en route, but try getting a flat front tire at 65+. That's a ride I've lived to tell about and I will just say that you never, ever want to experience it.
I just did my rear end lube and noticed when I took off the rear tire a shiny object, probably the size of a sunglass screw head. I thought it was just a metal flake until I tried to remove it with my finger nail. Well, it was alot deeper than I thought, and had to pull this little piece of metal with a pair of needle nose and it was at least 1/4 long. Now I'm afraid to ride if that cause the low tire pressure, but I don't want to take any chances so I'm looking to replace the tire soon.

 
The last slow leak i had in a back tire was due to a bad valve stem. The dealer who performed the tire change said they don't typically change valve stems (as most car tire dealers do). Seems like they would make that part of their service when they get a big markup on two tires plus a hefty labor rate to boot.

Getting back to your question, it was NORCAL's answer that rung true for me when this happened -- the bike didn't roll out of the garage as easily as usual.

Checking tires tends to be like checking oil -- if a vehicle doesn't typically use any oil or leak air, you tend to backoff on the preflight checks. It's kind of like flossing, how many people do that once a day? Whoops.....this'll get the beach perverts going with bikini floss jokes :dribble:

 
Well I'm waiting to replace the tire, but the tire pressure is holding good at 42psi f/r and something I didn't noticed was the tire sticker by the triple tree that has the proper inflation should be 42psi f/r...I was relying only on the markings on the tire itself and that can be hard to read at times.

 
Not intending to start a new tire thread here, but what kind of tires are you buying ZZ? So 42/42 is recommended on a sticker on the bike, but the owners manual doesn't say that.

 
I am not sure what ZZ is talking about either. There is no sticker on the FJR that recommends 42/42. And the 42 psi shown on the tire is the MAX pressure, although there is a healthy safety factor engineered in. I have also been known to go above that on occasion depending on load and speeds.

40/42 or even a little higher is what many of us recommend based on our own personal observations. Longer tire life and reduced cupping are the two major advantages. Personally, I think my FJR handles better at the increased pressures also, which is a bit counterintuitive.

Its all up to you. Do what you feel comfortable with. Experiment a little.

 
I am not sure what ZZ is talking about either. There is no sticker on the FJR that recommends 42/42......
Its all up to you. Do what you feel comfortable with. Experiment a little.
The sticker is on the swingarm, and max. pressure recommended on my sticker is 36 front/ 42 rear.

+1 on SkootersG's recommendations. The only caveat is for those who do track days, where it seems lower pressures are the norm. I've read that some aggressive street riders also use lower pressures.

 
psi.jpg


Heres the sticker, it says GVWR then the first letter f for front and last number is 42psi cold, next line is GVWR R for the rear tire and last number says 42psi cold. I know the manual says different, but usually in automotives, even the tire manufacturers recommend the sticker on the door for the correct psi for the weight of the vehicle.

 
Not intending to start a new tire thread here, but what kind of tires are you buying ZZ? So 42/42 is recommended on a sticker on the bike, but the owners manual doesn't say that.
I'm ordering Avons from fjrgoodies??? As soon as my wife lets go of my check book.

 
psi.jpg


Heres the sticker, it says GVWR then the first letter f for front and last number is 42psi cold, next line is GVWR R for the rear tire and last number says 42psi cold.  I know the manual says different, but usually in automotives, even the tire manufacturers recommend the sticker on the door for the correct psi for the weight of the vehicle.
I see, said the blind man! A good thought that the bike is not at GVWR capacity with the tires at less than that recommended pressure. So the manual and the tire pressures listed on the swingarm are less than the GVWR sticker. Interesting!

 
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I see, said the blind man!  A good thought that the bike is not at GVWR capacity with the tires at less than that recommended pressure.  So the manual and the tire pressures listed on the swingarm are less than the GVWR sticker.  Interesting!
If you want to get more confused, take a look at the 42psi load ratings that are listed on the on the tire. They are quite a bit higher than then the load ratings Yamaha stamped on the bike.

 
Okay, so you really are quite anal about the tire pressures usually (which you probably should be anyway) but you're kind of late, and the pressure gauge is around here someplace, and the valve caps are always a pain and you got to go now; at least give the tires a quick thump to make sure you have some sort of air pressure in them. Motorcycle tires, especially the lower profile tires, are hard to detect when they have medium low pressures in them. Where you can get into trouble is when you take a corner, a little hot, on a marginal tire. The quick thump method, once you get an ear for what type of sound you're looking for, can at least give you a little quick confidence you didn't have a major leak-down since your last ride. Then, after you get back, find that gauge and hopefully put your mind to rest that you were riding on a safe tire all along. Then, next time, check those tires first.

 
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