What do you use to add accesories to your battery?

[lacofdfireman]

Just wondering what there is out there that I could use to add accesories to my battery. I already have my battery cables then on top of that Ring terminals for my Blue Seas Fuse block. I would like to add on a battery tender also but the posts are not long enough. I can't fit any more ring terminals with the bolt provided and even if I was able to get another ring terminal under there it would look kinda hokey cause they would all be stacked together and bent. Do they make something to solve my problem. If you have something do you have a picture or details. Thanks.

 

[kaitsdad]

About half way down the page:

NLine - Brydenscott

Battery power lugs

 

[Fencer]

I have both a blue sea fuse block and batery tender hook up on my battery without extensions

 

[Wolfhound]

I really like the battery power lugs that kaitsdad put up the link to. Been running them a couple of years now.

 

[Toecutter]

I have both a blue sea fuse block and batery tender hook up on my battery without extensions

I have no less than six terminals on each post, and no extensions. I shoved a cable tie (fat end) under each nut to hold it up and it was easy after that.

Now, if I could just get those dash panels back on....

 

[Geezer]

I have both a blue sea fuse block and batery tender hook up on my battery without extensions

I have no less than six terminals on each post, and no extensions. I shoved a cable tie (fat end) under each nut to hold it up and it was easy after that.

Now, if I could just get those dash panels back on....

Similar situation for me. On the positive side of the battery I have a bunch of ring connectors and I use a small screwdriver to raise the nut inside the terminal so I can start the threads on the bolt. If necessary you can use a slightly longer bolt, but be careful that it isn't so long that it bottoms out in the battery terminal. I do have a terminal strip along side the battery for the ground because I like to run a separate ground wire all the way back to the battery for each electrical farkle.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Using multiple ring terminals can lead to vibration loosening the assembly. Any flat copper or copper strap that has decent thickness can be used as a buss bar to attach multiple electric loads. Drill one hole for the battery bolt and as many additional holes as you want to attach accessories. Cutting water pipe lengthwise works well for this and remember to fuse the wires you take from this power source.

Same idea, but more formal - Radio Shack has the following terminal strip and separate jumper piece:

The jumper piece connects the screws on one side and that's the side you connect through a fuse to your battery. You can then have muliple connection points for accessories on the other side. Do the same for your ground path.

 

[Fred W]

I have both a blue sea fuse block and batery tender hook up on my battery without extensions

Ditto. The problem is that you can't reach the nut, which falls down to the bottom of the lead battery terminal's slot, to get the screw started.

The trick is to get a small piece of foam weather striping and stick that into the slot under the nut, to hold it up to the top of the slot.

Then you'll be able to start the screw with (more than) 3 terminal lugs on it.

 

[Constant Mesh]

It may be feasible to make a secure, bolted connection at the starter motor relay next to the battery. Connecting to this bolted terminal is essentially the same as connecting to the positive battery post.

You can easily connect to the negative battery post via the large engine grounding conductor at the lower right of the crankcase. The connection bolt at that location is quite large and can easily accommodate multiple accessory grounding connections. And, of course, the large conductor between the crankcase and battery has essentially zero resistance.

Ideally it would be desirable to connect directly to the + and - buses at the output of the rectifier/regulator and go nowhere near the battery for accessory power. It would be nice if Yamaha provided large + and - terminal connections off this power bus for accessory use.

 

[Kieth]

This is why I use a Centech AP 2, it has switched and unswitched fused connections built in it. On BMWs with a canbus I always use the AP2 so we can run a battery tender connector. Having all of the terminals switched h34r: on a power distrubution system does not work all of the time. Kieth

 

[Ignacio]

Instead of trying to litter the battery with ring terminals I have two that come off it and go to two terminal blocks that make it easy to distribute power. One fused and relayed with the ignition switch and one hot to the battery with a fuse.

 

[Bounce]

Instead of trying to litter the battery with ring terminals I have two that come off it and go to two terminal blocks that make it easy to distribute power. One fused and relayed with the ignition switch and one hot to the battery with a fuse.

+1

and all of this has been well documented for years.

https://www.fjr-tips.org/mods/pdb/pdb.html is just one place and it references another in the write up.