What I did on my summer vacation...now with trip photos.

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Have selected the top ten photos from each day...might have to reduce further if I can. Writing RR now...just trying to figure out how many ways I can make fun of AJ...

 
RR Part Eins

2013 American Southwest Tour w/ wifey(or what I did on my summer vacation)

Trips do not start the day you head out of the barn on your FJR. They start earlier, much earlier in my case. As soon as my touring season ends, at the end of October in my case, I am looking forward to next years trips already. I usually have just done EOM, Hooterville, and SW Wisconsin to finish out the year when I start all over. What will I do? Where will I go?

Last November, I knew 2013 was gonna be the big year, the year that Louanne and I would take a scenic ride out to the Southwest. We had just taken a successful inaugural two-up week long tour to Appalacia in July of 2012, so she knew she could spend a week on the bike with me. This was going to be the big one...out to Bryce Canyon, one of her favorite places since a tour in her twenties. As I passed through there on the way out to California in 2011, I saw the beauty and knew I had to get both of us there on an FJR trip.

Thus, it began. Planning, checking S&T, reviewing daily mileages to ensure they fit within wifey's optimal daily mileages, seeing what places and roads we could fit in within a weeks time. She would obviously fly out and I would ride out. No problem there, but more logistics as I would be taking two weeks off for a one week trip with wifey.

She wanted low daily mileage and staying at a place more than one night if possible to minimize packing/unpacking time. To make a long story short, I convinced her to ride the two full weeks with me, just not the Great Plains (which was fine with me).

We would stay the first weekend at her sister's place on a mountain ridge just west of Fort Collins, CO. We planned stops at the Hot Springs at Glenwood Springs, CO. Moab, Utah would be the base for Arches and Canyonlands, NP. Tropic, UT would be the base for Bryce, and we had a motel picked just outside Zion, NP. We were staying two nights at a lodge in Grand Canyon, NP. On the way back from the Grand Canyon to Denver Intl Airport we would make some nice stops along the way, Monument Valley and Cortez, Mesa Verde and Ouray, Independence Pass and Leadville, and finally a stop at her older brothers place in Edwards, CO before blasting east to DIA.

July came, and ready as can be...we headed out west: Louanne via air, and me by FJR after some last minute work work was done. I had been involved in a lengthy project that was due to our client the day that I left. There was a bit of panic the last week before the trip as I wondered whether it would all get done. Quite frankly, I had been putting in monster overtime for 3-4 months now and had to get reconnected with my wife after a lot of time apart. I left a couple hours late, 1pm on a Friday, about the time that Louanne met her sister.

It was good that Louanne was not on the bike, as getting around all the left lane blockers on I-80 is a full time job, unnecessary and aggravating.

blah, blah, blah...here are some photos from when we got out to my Louanne's sister's place up on the mountain ridge west of Fort Collins.

Brother in law Max working the backhoe for a "project" on his property...



Max working hard in the background, while I laugh and joke with Lynette, Louanne's sister...



Lynette, Louanne, her older brother Larry and Brenda, with Fort Collins in the far background...



 
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Day 4 - Monday - On to Steamboat Springs!

Well, my wife loves hot springs if she can get to them. Warm water while in a beautiful surrounding is her deal. So when Lynette told her about the Strawberry Park Hot Springs park north of Steamboat Springs, CO, she convinced us to change reservations away from expensive Glenwood Springs to this other Hot Springs. We had a great time with Lynette and Max, but it was nearing time to leave on our own journey.

Monday dawned on our first day riding together. I looked out the window and we were socked in with fog! I don't know about you, but thick fog is something I don't do on the FJR, especially after a previous bad experience I had. So as I got up, I checked the web cams on RMNP, and there was fog on the eastern section of the Park as well. So I made a decision to go north to CO 14 then west, instead of through RMNP. I hated to do that, since I really wanted to get back up there, but it was the right decision for me.

I knew how good CO 14 was, so I wasn't too heartbroken. Now all we had to do was wait for the fog to lift a little bit, then get down the mountain with a fully laden FJR. I've been up and down their 5 mile association maintained "road" a few times now. It is bumpy no doubt...I was just hoping not to have an awkward stop and drop the bike with Louanne on the bike. Lynette was heading to work at the same time, so Louanne rode in the Jeep with Lynette while I attempted to negotiate the "road".

Blah, blah, blah, get on with it already...

Last pictures before we head out...


Well, this area is usually pretty dry, but some rain hit over the weekend, and the nice red dusty clay turned pretty slimy. I almost dumped it out at the end of their 300 ft driveway, I almost dumped it twice in a steep right hand curve where the 4x4s had rutted up the road...I went at the beginning from thinking that I had a 50/50 chance of making it down without dropping it to about a 10% chance of making it down without a drop. I was frantically searching for gravel to get beneath the wheels as my front wheel was sliding without steering input from me. 5 miles later and 50 more white hairs, I got to the bottom, where Louanne got on the bike...whew!

We headed north from Masonville on Buckhorn road to CO 14. Buckhorn is usually a pretty good road, but I noticed something dark and wide crossing the road, what was that? MUD!!! So I crossed about 5 mud crossings before getting to CO 14 and headed west. Ahhhhh, all is well now with Mark's heart. The scenery was SPECTACULAR on this trip, and CO 14 was great.

Blah, blah, blah...here's a nice photo along CO 14...


More good stuff as we head up to Cameron Pass, notice the perfect weather...


By a rest stop...feeling the stress from work and life leaving me...


Mountains to the south of us...


Louanne, Look! Mountains!


We approached Cameron Pass and saw someone with a camera just off to the right...as we passed by, we saw two black moose! Should have stopped, oh well. We followed some BMWs that headed out at Cameron Pass and followed them through the high plains and ranches all the way to Steamboat Springs. In this picture, we are dropping down into Steamboat Springs as we head north...


Another thing that Louanne likes is the trickling sound of a mountain stream. Our relatives gave us a good recommendation for a lunch stop in Steamboat Springs, the Creekside Cafe...


With their outdoor seating, trickling creek and great food, it was the perfect stop...we even had a magpie stop by and visit for a spell...


Well, after lunch it was time to find that hot springs north of town a little ways (on a goodly long gravel road)
We made it!


The springs were great, nice and hot in some places, just nice and warm in others, and refreshingly cool in others if you want. Anyways, Louanne was happy, so I was happy. It lightninged and downpoured for a while while we were there, but we just took cover while the storm passed, and enjoyed it again for awhile. When we had had enough, we went towards out hotel, had dinner and stopped at a Walgreens where we got me a couple "Colorado" T-shirts for $6 each, because, like a dufus, I didn't get any cotton shirts along for the trip. Wadda *****.

So that ends the day, except for a quick hose down of the bike, cuz I had mountain road clay everywhere underneath from the wet mountain roads...the radiator, the pipes, the fairing, the brake assemblies, etc. The bike was not clean, but at least the clay wasn't gonna goober anything up.

Next day...On to Moab!

 
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Day 5 - On to Moab!

(Oh yeah, forgot to mention, most of these photos are wifey's...she had the lanyard attached to our newer point and shoot, I had our older one. She did a great job in my opinion.)

Well, we woke up the next morning ready to get going. We knew we had a little way to go, so after breakfast it was time to pack up. During trip planning I had an awesome route from Glenwood Springs all planned, but I knew when we revised to Steamboat that this day's ride was going to get revised. I was going to do some really fun stuff in the mountains and along the Naturita that I heard was so great during the 2008 NAFO SaddleSore. However, I wanted this trip to be as enjoyable to Louanne as possible, and I knew a long day in the heat and ending in the heat of Moab was not a good way to kick off two weeks on the bike. I saw the temps in MOAB were going to be high, as usual, as well as temps in the Canyon along the Naturita...so I crossed that out. How we dealt with heat was going to be the key in my mind for this trip to be successful, as Louanne has had issues with dehydration in the past and can get some pretty nasty headaches. I brought some cooling vests, which I had never used before, and assumed that would help once we got into some real heat.

So we shot straight down to the interstate from Steamboat, the scenery was great, high plains with the big mountains to the south in your view.

What we saw along the way...


it was a nice little ride in itself down to the interstate...

(I will post the first of a few L--- A—videos. I’m not editing these videos for content or length. The best way to watch these videos is with the sound off. Only watch till you get that bored feeling.
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Just think of them as a long lively photograph...)

https://s14.photobucket.com/user/wheatonFJR/media/2013%20American%20Southwest/Day%205%20-%20On%20to%20Moab%20and%20Arches/2013LAV01.mp4.html

...then took I-70 through Glenwood Canyon, (unfortunately, this video is just before the Canyon...but you get the idea)
https://s14.photobucket.com/user/wheatonFJR/media/2013%20American%20Southwest/Day%205%20-%20On%20to%20Moab%20and%20Arches/2013LAV02.mp4.html

We then exited the Interstate at Cisco, UT to take the road along the Colorado River down to Moab. We went down that road at the suggestion of family, and we sure were glad we did. Cisco is nothing but a couple of old broken down trailers, and the first 10 miles is really isolated, but the scenery along the river was eye opening. Just outstanding...


Just mind blowing scenes for us...


A little vid..
https://s14.photobucket.com/user/wheatonFJR/media/2013%20American%20Southwest/Day%205%20-%20On%20to%20Moab%20and%20Arches/2013LAV03.mp4.html





Now, outstanding or not, it was really hot in that canyon and getting warmer as we approached Moab. It was right hot hen we got to our SleepInn just south of Moab, where we checked in and cooled off for awhile. Louanne in the pool and me with a shower and AC, and a beer. It was early afternoon, and we just chilled for awhile. I started up some stupid thread on the FJRForum and later joined Louanne in the pool for a little bit. Our motel room was great, first floor, close to the front entrance, and close to the pool right outside our window, with some impressive foreboding mountains in the background, casting their shadow on Moab.

We chilled and lazed all afternoon. When it was getting close to suppertime, we headed over to some Mexican restaurant in town, Fiesta Mexicana. We thought it might be a little lame, but the food was excellent! We finished off the meal with some great fluffy sopapillas covered with cinnamon and dripping with honey. Just an awesome meal!

So now it is evening and we head over to Arches NP for a quick ride through the Park as we decide to head over to the "Windows" section. The temperatures were now very comfortable for visiting and riding.
Beautiful colors and shapes...




The "Windows" were beautiful as you feel like you are looking through a portal into another world...


End of the day sun, before heading back to the motel...


Well, as we looked to the south, the mountains south of Moab were shrouded in dark clouds and lightning...as were heading south towards the exit, I wondered whether we were going to head into this pretty intense lightning. As it turns out, we made it by about half an hour or so before the heavens opened up at the motel and the lightning went nuts. I was glad to be inside at that point.
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Next day...Day 6...Canyonlands!

 
Day 6 - Canyonlands!

Well, we had explored Arches pretty good last time we were in the area last time we were in Moab (25 years ago!), but knew nothing about Canyonlands NP. After hearing about Canyonlands from some neighbors a few years ago, we were really interested in visiting this Park. We were not disappointed! I can feel pretty confident in saying that most anyone that visits Canyonlands NP, will come away awestruck with the beauty there, or atleast impressed in some way. It really is probably the least known of the Utah Parks, but is one of the best...really.

Louanne and I came away from our trip with over 1100 photos (the beauty of digital). However, trying to fit only 10 photos into this day's report was very difficult...what with the scenery, trying to tell the story of the trip, etc.

Our plan was to rise up early and get to the Park asap and visit the park, till we were done, it was too hot, whichever came first. Since there is really nothing in the park for eats, after breakfast, we made PB&J sandwiches from the motel breakfast spread, packed a banana, had some cashews, and a trail mix package, and had a bag of carrots cooled with ice. Even though I'm not a big PB&J guy, this plan worked out pretty well. We got to stay for a long while at the park, enjoyed ourselves wit the incredible views, and had something to keep our energy up. Of course, we had both CamelBaks filled with ice as well.

Mesa Arch, looking south and east...just a mind wrenching view that this camera just cannot get it's view finder around. I could sit here and contemplate stuff every morning for the rest of my life...





Elsewhere in the Park, looking south and west...



Surreal...



Everywhere you look, a different view...



Wifey, enjoying the view...



We were both struck by the brilliant, gawdy green of the Junipers when cast with the browns in the background, and of course the beautiful blue sky and white puffy clouds...



The amazing colored landscape looking southwest at the Green River overlook...



Others enjoying the view...



After an awesome morning at the overlooks, we stopped at a picnic area under a shade tree for our "lunch". It hit the spot, as we cooled ourselves in the shade. It was quite hot as we left in the early afternoon, so I put on a cooling vest (and made Louanne put one on for practice) as we headed back to the motel...just to see how it would work, as I know that Moab, at a much lower elevation, could really be hot.

We got back to the motel and pool, as we enjoyed the afternoon being refreshed; me with a beverage and Louanne reading books as she loves to do...



This trip was a very relaxing trip...

 
Day 7 - On to Tropic!

This day was going to be a transition day from Arches/Canyonlands to the Bryce/Zion area...



I was looking forward to this day...I had heard that UT 95 was great and I had already ridden UT 12...so I knew some good stuff was ahead!
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But it was also 350 miles...so hopefully heat and bad weather wouldn't dampen our uplifted vacation spirits...

Morning sky at Moab...



Imposing mountains south of Moab...



On 95 heading west...



Crossing the Colorado River on UT 95...



A long trip with wifey is much different that cruising with your buds across country. Much more presence of mind, making sure she's safe, that the bike's good, that she's having a good time. Enjoying the fact that she is. This motorcycle trip with wifey was awesome.

So by the time we got to the Colorado, things were heating up, the ice water from the CamelBaks was a welcome cooler, and a must have on this trip. We stopped briefly briefly at the Capitol Reef NP visitor center...right off the highway. Beautiful things at that spot as well...



After an extended cooling stop at a Subway stop in Torrey, UT, we headed south on Utah 12. Unfortunately it has a lot of chip seal on it now days, too bad for such an awesome road. However, the scenery is still awesome...

Huge view at overlook, looking east...



So, before you get to Escalante, heading south, there is a section of road where the earth just falls away on both sides of you, and you have some 25mph curves with only the road and skinny shoulder. I kid you not, it looks like road curves into the sky, as there is no soil to your left or to your right.

Unfortunately, I stopped 1000 feet south of this short section of road at a wide spot in the road. Some downpours were ahead of us and to the side of us, chasing and menacing us for most of the way to Tropic...



Wifey and the FJR...



We got to the America's Best Value Inn in Tropic, UT about 3pm, before the 4pm check-in. So we just hung out at the benches under the Canopy. Louanne went to walk to some shops next door, and as I hung out, about 10 HD's pulled up under the canopy, as it was raining pretty good just at that moment. They all get off their bikes, and were talking right away in French. It was an excited conversation, so it sounded like they were having fun on their tour. It turns out that most were from overseas, having flown into Vegas and rented their "American Iron" there. A couple of the bikes had been ridden from Quebec by their owners. Didn't interact with them much as we were trying to get checked in, but it was interesting.

I would say that at Bryce, the next day, 1/3rd spoke French, 1/3rd spoke German, and the remaining 3rd spoke English of some form or Chinese and Japanese. Very interesting.

After we had dinner in Tropic, we walked around Tropic for a little after dinner exersize. I highly suggest you do this when you are there for entertainment value. There is obviously no zoning in Tropic. Shacks with horse pens and tall weedy grass next door to expensive homes with golf course green lawns. Many had a good garden, many had a horse in a pen, 4-wheelers everywhere, brown tabby cats over running the place, and lots of people with that cross-eyed HotRodZilla look.
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Day 8 - Bryce Canyon!!

So...Bryce Canyon I've heard about from Louanne since before we got married. A place she's been to, but I hadn't. I passed through the Park quickly with Airboss on the way out to our Rolling Kali ClusterFest a couple years back. The little I saw then told me that I HAD to come back here with wifey. HAD to.

Well, now that day had arrived. Can't wait.

We woke up early and got to the free motel breakfast served at the great Restaurant next door. Highly recommend ABV in Tropic for a base. Great restaurant associated with the motel. So you get a list of items from the menu that are free for motel customers, and it's not a small list. Great food, and a lot of it. Louanne and I saved some bagels and cream cheese for lunch later that day, we purchased a banana, carrots, cashews and trail mix for lunch. That worked out real good for our lunch later that day...didn't have to find a restaurant, and could pick a great overlook to enjoy our lunch.

So we gear up, get to the Park and get to the Visitor Center 5-10 miles from our motel so Louanne can ask what places we should visit with the time we have. (This was repeated throughout our Park visits. Sometimes it's nice to have a wife along to ask those questions.
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)

So we started off at Sunset Point so, besides the viewing at the overlook, we could take a little 1.6 mile hike, the Navajo Trail. Please, if you go to Bryce, do this hike. You will not be sorry.
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At the Overlook...happy to be here!



After we had walked down some switchbacks, looking back up. Simply breathtaking!



Swallow nests under a rock overhang...



Looking back through the slot canyon at the orange pillar and blue sky...



A tree in the slot...



What a sight! Incredible beauty...



Green pines, burnt orange beauty, blue sky, white clouds...



Golden pillars...



Green forests and hills...



Castles...



Looks like one big "Dreamsickle"...



What can I say? Beauty everywhere...



Bryce was spectacular...one of the high points of our trip. Most of our photos were at Bryce...if you visit, you will have a hard time keeping your jaw from dropping.

After we had drunk our fill of Bryce, we headed back to our motel for a nap and some leisure. We had dinner and a walk in Tropic to round out our day, as we watch the colors change in the evening sky...

Next, Day 9....Zion!!

 
Day 9 - Zion NP

Well, Bryce was definitely a highlight of our trip, but we had a week to go on this trip. Surely something would come along that we would like for the rest of the time.
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We packed up and headed down the road only a few miles and we were at the gate of Zion NP. As much as Bryce is this awe-inducing fantasmorphic, LSD-laced trip through surreal multi-colored rock weirdness and delight, Zion is you being put in your place by massive granite faces daring you not to be awed by their splendor and grandness. These two grand Parks, 80 miles apart as the FJR travels, are universes apart in experience.

Both are awesome.

Park entrance road...



BTW, Note to self, shelve the dark face shield BEFORE going in the long tunnel.

View looking north from switchbacks coming down from the east Canyon entrance road...





Two Granite giants in this hot Garden of Eden...



The Tree of Good and Evil, providing shade for picnic goers near the Lodge...



Lunch time sustenance...



Iggy, the IBR rider...



Iggy, after Leg 2...



The beautiful garden that is Zion...



 
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Days 10 and 11, The Grand Canyon - North Rim

Well, not so fast. Wifey didn't get her pool time the last night at Zion because of a bad headache (that's what SHE said)...so weren't shoving off for the Grand Canyon until pool time is properly accounted for!

We stayed at the Quality Inn-Montclair, just outside of the west entrance to Zion.

Beautiful view...



Beautiful pool...



So while last night's headache was being treated with medicine and ice, I parked myself at the motel laundry and cleaned some icky sticky clothes. (I think they were due.) I checked in on Louanne every once in a while, and later in the evening she got better. Better enough to finish the loaded nachos take home plate I got at the nearby sports bar, when Louanne was feeling too ill to think about eating. But she finally perked up and all was well. Since the Grand Canyon is really not that far from Zion, we agreed to a late sleepin time and a good bit of pool time before checkout.

We headed back east through the beautiful Zion park and the switchbacks, and the long tunnel, and the east road, till we got to 89 southbound. Before too long we were heading through Kanab, where they were having a car show, I turned my head to the right as we were heading past and my jaw dropped...there must have been about 80 Model Ts lined up ready to parade! No photos, but quite a sight!

We stopped there for gas and lunch, the Subway was busy, but was a good AC stop in the hot climate.

We continued on south, but we could see rain hanging out near "some ridge" a long ways ahead. That ridge ended up being where we were going. That was the North Rim. We climbed in elevation, it got nice in cool. We climbed in elevation, it started to sprinkle and get downright chilly after our 100plus degree lunch stop just an hour before. It was pouring just before we got to the Grand Canyon Park Ranger Entrance...but had stopped by then. Not too much rain, didn't get out the rubber rain suits at all on this trip. Barely needed the rain liners...mainly for temperature. Best trip weather I've EVER had with regards to rain.

Well, we got to the Grand Canyon Lodge to get our Lodge room assignment...



...and you are just struck by the view from inside the Lodge, looking out. Jaw dropping...



Well, once we got to the Lodge room, we looked around and saw something familiar...

SkooterG!



I must stop for a minute and thank Beemerdons for his good advice and endorsement of the North Rim. Not knowing if the North Rim was "any good", I had a good idea and checked with the "big guy with all the info". Thanks Don! The North Rim was great! At over 8000 ft in elevation, it was nice and cool when it was 100 plus in Kanab. No AC provided (nor required) at all in Mid-July, in fact I used the extra blanket at night. I was concerned about no AC, but it was no concern at all, and the facilities are great for a National Park. I wanted to make sure I got a room, so I booked last November! First reservation I made.
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Well, I had never been to the Grand Canyon. In fact the Grand Canyon was one of those places that "all the other kids got to go to". Not us, we got the Dunes on Lake Michigan, or a visit to the family farm in Nebraska. All treasured memories now, but not as much when you're a kid. It wasn't The Grand Canyon, that's for sure!

So here we are, at the place I've never been, nor ever thought I'd get to...



We spent that first afternoon and evening near the North Rim Lodge...



Enjoying the view from the Veranda, sipping on a beverage...



Going to nearby overlooks and enjoying the wonder set before you...



But eventually, the rain cloud that hit us earlier came back to camp over the Park...



But we got in a few quick glances before we scurried for our room...



We spent the rest of the evening reading books, Louanne reading her many books. Me reading three pages of Papillion before I fell dead hard asleep.
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I'll get that book read some year.
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Well, we planned to arrive early and eat breakfast in the Dining Room of the Lodge, if there was room.

Great breakfast...



Looking towards the view...



I need a better look...wow, what a setting for breakfast!



So, we got on the bike and rode over to the other, farther away overlooks...



Exploring the views hidden in plain sight...



...and laid out before us...



drinking it all in...



both far away...



and near...



Thankful that my trusty FJR could get us here.



Large trees standing their ground on giant rock formations...



and castles, eroded over time...



lonely, forlorn trees...clinging to the beauty



Things both great...



and small...



We shared them all.



 
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You lucky, lucky man. What an great trip, incredible pictures, hope you packed a ventilator for the breaths you were taking at every turn.

From the midwest, I'd have to have my wife fly west, meet her out there, then ride around...unless we took a couple months off. Not any time soon...

 
Wheatie, you did a much better job than I did with explaining and showcasing the beauty of the North Rim. I was fortunate enough to take my wife and son to the South Rim in April of 2012 and I can say that the views of the canyon itself are much better from the South Rim than from what you saw on the North Rim. However, for the complete, total package experience, the North Rim is a much better experience. For one thing it seemed like there was less than 1% of the people, you could take a picture from wherever you wanted without waiting in line or having someone cut in front of you.

Please, do share with us your impressions of the road from Jacob Lake down to the Park. I cannot put into words how much I enjoyed the Kaibab Plateau.

Sometimes, just a little tiny bit, I wish my wife would ride the bike with me. You have me a bit jealous right now. You and that no-good BikerGeek are both fortunate.

 
So, before you get to Escalante, heading south, there is a section of road where the earth just falls away on both sides of you, and you have some 25mph curves with only the road and skinny shoulder. I kid you not, it looks like road curves into the sky, as there is no soil to your left or to your right.
Ya, that one got me as well. "The Devils Backbone".

I was leading and came up to that corner with the huge left turn sign at the end. Keep in mind, your sort of in a canyon. You turn the corner and ... SWEETMERCIFULJEEBUZ!

I rode down the yellow line on that one. Betcha you did too :D

Great report Wheatness!

 
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