rocketman0
Well-known member
Where can I buy a steering bearing socket to check the steering torque. I like the one that looks like this:
Where can I buy a steering bearing socket?
- Thread starter rocketman0
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Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
ionbeam
2 FUN
I can understand why you would like to buy a castellated socket but unfortunately there are no tools like that which are 'off the shelf' available for the FJR. Some intrepid Forum members have made their own. This is what the FSM says:
This type of spanner can be found as an aftermarket tool. Note how the wrench is 90º to the center line of the steering head. It is critical to maintain this angle when torquing the steering nut.
If you do look for this kind of tool you need to be careful. In the picture below, the top picture shows a tool with a cutout and a pawl which is what you want, the bottom picture is a near look alike tool with a hook but it will not work.
This type of spanner can be found as an aftermarket tool. Note how the wrench is 90º to the center line of the steering head. It is critical to maintain this angle when torquing the steering nut.
If you do look for this kind of tool you need to be careful. In the picture below, the top picture shows a tool with a cutout and a pawl which is what you want, the bottom picture is a near look alike tool with a hook but it will not work.
Last edited by a moderator:
RossKean
Well-known member
Chiefblueman
Well-known member
90890-01403 - YAMAHA - YU-33975 Steering RING NUT WRENCH
You can buy one here - https://www.rscycles.com/product_p/90890-01403.htm
A bit spendy at $61!!!
You can buy one here - https://www.rscycles.com/product_p/90890-01403.htm
A bit spendy at $61!!!
RossKean
Well-known member
Or about half that price on Fleabay - still about 5x too much for a piece of stamped steel.
Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
I bought one from a guy on the Venture Royale Forum for $30 ... I haven't looked at whether or not it is the same part as the one for the FJR, but it looks very similar. He makes them.
I'll check.
I'll check.
Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
I asked, here is the answer:
The tool made originally for the Yamaha Venture Royale will fit the FJR1300. I have one, it is well-made and works as it should.
They are made by a guy called Gary Dinges
He doesn't have a website. Usually use Ebay. His PayPal ID is gary AT dinges.com They are $28.00 including USA shipping. This is also email address if you want a PayPal invoice. Thanks,
The tool made originally for the Yamaha Venture Royale will fit the FJR1300. I have one, it is well-made and works as it should.
They are made by a guy called Gary Dinges
He doesn't have a website. Usually use Ebay. His PayPal ID is gary AT dinges.com They are $28.00 including USA shipping. This is also email address if you want a PayPal invoice. Thanks,
rocketman0
Well-known member
Thank you so much for your help. I like to try to get the socket tool first as it's just easier mot more accurate to use.
I'll email Gary.
Will keep you posted..
Mike
I'll email Gary.
Will keep you posted..
Mike
ULEWZ
Well-known member
I am in the valley. I had a friend make a tool for me. Just come on buy and I will check/retorque your head. PM me if you like.
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DennisJ
Well-known member
Used to live in Canoga Park, about a 10 minute walk west of the Norhtridge MetroLink termial. Worked in downtown for Security Pacifc, later BofA, at 333 S. Hope and later in the Beaudry Building. MetroLink made it possible, if I had to drive everyday I would not have lasted the 14 years I did. Luckily I now have a 15 - 20 minute commute between Mercer Island and a block west of Redmond City Hall. Hardly seems fair when some of the people in our small office have 30 - 45 minutes commutes in heavy traffic. Doesn't keep me from enjoying the ride every day though.
rocketman0
Well-known member
I believe that's Gary who was referred here earlier. I emailed him from the email addr posted and he sent me that same picture.
I'm still trying to locate a socket.
Mike
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="FJR30FAN" data-cid="1166531" data-time="1407158577"><p>
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="RossKean" data-cid="1166381" data-time="1407095096"><p><blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Chiefblueman" data-cid="1166352"><p> 90890-01403 - YAMAHA - YU-33975 Steering RING NUT WRENCH<br />
You can buy one here - <a href='https://www.rscycles.com/product_p/90890-01403.htm'>https://www.rscycles.com/product_p/90890-01403.htm</a><br />
<br />
A bit spendy at $61!!! </p></blockquote>
Or about half that price on Fleabay - still about 5x too much for a piece of stamped steel.</p></blockquote>
Conversely, I saw one here for $32.00: <a href='https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Steering-Head-Ring-Nut-Wrench-Venture-VMax-R1-FJR-Virago-Radian-WR450-/181469085096?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a40667da8&vxp=mtr#ht_2011wt_1362'>https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Steering-Head-Ring-Nut-Wrench-Venture-VMax-R1-FJR-Virago-Radian-WR450-/181469085096?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a40667da8&vxp=mtr#ht_2011wt_1362</a></p></blockquote>
I'm still trying to locate a socket.
Mike
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="FJR30FAN" data-cid="1166531" data-time="1407158577"><p>
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="RossKean" data-cid="1166381" data-time="1407095096"><p><blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Chiefblueman" data-cid="1166352"><p> 90890-01403 - YAMAHA - YU-33975 Steering RING NUT WRENCH<br />
You can buy one here - <a href='https://www.rscycles.com/product_p/90890-01403.htm'>https://www.rscycles.com/product_p/90890-01403.htm</a><br />
<br />
A bit spendy at $61!!! </p></blockquote>
Or about half that price on Fleabay - still about 5x too much for a piece of stamped steel.</p></blockquote>
Conversely, I saw one here for $32.00: <a href='https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Steering-Head-Ring-Nut-Wrench-Venture-VMax-R1-FJR-Virago-Radian-WR450-/181469085096?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a40667da8&vxp=mtr#ht_2011wt_1362'>https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Steering-Head-Ring-Nut-Wrench-Venture-VMax-R1-FJR-Virago-Radian-WR450-/181469085096?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a40667da8&vxp=mtr#ht_2011wt_1362</a></p></blockquote>
Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
That eBay listing is Gary.
Bonus, you were just offered the same thing for $28
Bonus, you were just offered the same thing for $28
rocketman0
Well-known member
To be able to live close to the place of work truly releases lots of stresses. My round trip commute to/from work is 50 miles and it takes at least 2 hours per day of commute in car (or 80 minutes on bike.)
rocketman0
Well-known member
Thanks! Is it as good and as accurate as the socket type? How much will it off by having the torque wrench a few degrees left or right when using the hook type?That eBay listing is Gary.
Bonus, you were just offered the same thing for $28
I think I need to dig out my old physics books
Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
I have never used a "socket type", so I couldn't say.
So head bearings usually have a "torque range" for the final tightening. Whatever, they are never very tight, in the "Standard British Handful" school they are torqued down to about 30 ftlb to seat everything, then the nut is backed of and re-torqued to something much smaller ... maybe 3 to 10 ftlb (I don't know what the manual says for this).
The point is that few torque wrenches are accurate enough, and calibrated regularly enough, to get this right ... so don't rely on yours unless it is Snap-On or similar, and has been calibrated recently.
The idea is to tighten the bearing so that there is zero play in any direction (just under slight tension), and the bars are free to swing through the entire arc without bouncing back and forth.
If they are too tight they will wear very quickly, and your steering will be vague and wander at high speeds. If they are too loose the handling will be crap.
This is one area where the correct torque, as per the manual, will help take the guessing out, but only if you can get it correct. The other tests ... hand tight plus a smidge, and swinging the bars with a light touch from one stop .... It should move to the other stop and bounce back maybe half way .... helps enormously.
So head bearings usually have a "torque range" for the final tightening. Whatever, they are never very tight, in the "Standard British Handful" school they are torqued down to about 30 ftlb to seat everything, then the nut is backed of and re-torqued to something much smaller ... maybe 3 to 10 ftlb (I don't know what the manual says for this).
The point is that few torque wrenches are accurate enough, and calibrated regularly enough, to get this right ... so don't rely on yours unless it is Snap-On or similar, and has been calibrated recently.
The idea is to tighten the bearing so that there is zero play in any direction (just under slight tension), and the bars are free to swing through the entire arc without bouncing back and forth.
If they are too tight they will wear very quickly, and your steering will be vague and wander at high speeds. If they are too loose the handling will be crap.
This is one area where the correct torque, as per the manual, will help take the guessing out, but only if you can get it correct. The other tests ... hand tight plus a smidge, and swinging the bars with a light touch from one stop .... It should move to the other stop and bounce back maybe half way .... helps enormously.
Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
I want to clarify the above.
When swinging the handlebars, they need to be free to swing. Remove everything from them that causes drag, including both master cylinders and their associated pipes ... just hold them out of the way.
With the bars over on one of the stops, push lightly and they should swing freely over to the other stop. When the tension is correct they will bounce back a little way. If they come right back to the starting position, they are too loose. If they don't bounce back at all they are too tight.
This takes a little practice, but does work.
When swinging the handlebars, they need to be free to swing. Remove everything from them that causes drag, including both master cylinders and their associated pipes ... just hold them out of the way.
With the bars over on one of the stops, push lightly and they should swing freely over to the other stop. When the tension is correct they will bounce back a little way. If they come right back to the starting position, they are too loose. If they don't bounce back at all they are too tight.
This takes a little practice, but does work.
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